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Stanage without oxygen (Read 1536 times)

kingholmesy

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Stanage without oxygen
December 01, 2012, 09:20:43 pm
Had a quick play on this at the end of today and would appreciate any tips on how to do the crux.

I got to being matched on jams in the break below the crux.  From there I got a high left foot heal/toe in the break, took the side-pull crack thing as an undercut with my left hand, and went up for the sloper with my right hand.  Then what?

One of the lads at the crag reckoned you bump the right hand up again to the good (?) hold, but this seems like it will be a massive span.  Alternatively do you lock down on the sloper with your right hand and go up with your left?

I didn't really feel close either way.   :shrug:

J_duds

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#1 Re: Stanage without oxygen
December 01, 2012, 10:43:20 pm

Ethan

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#2 Re: Stanage without oxygen
December 01, 2012, 10:43:25 pm
Easiest way is to sack the shitty sloper and just lay one on for the top. Left hand in the crack, high left foot in the break, then undercut the break with your right and do a big throw to the jug. Hope this helps.

kingholmesy

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#3 Re: Stanage without oxygen
December 01, 2012, 11:25:41 pm
Cheers both.

 

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