[Dangerous Dave 123]

Okay guys and girls. Looking for some beta/info on a project I have.
Does anyone know if the block up at Leigh Tor has been climbed (it's the first block you see as you approach from the car park at the top of the hill).
The problem I'm thinking of is a kind of traverse with a sit start (but not a sit start as your arse is off the floor).
Anyway if anyone knows if it's been done even better if they've done it any advice beta would be appreciated.
Thanks all.
Dave.

[SA Chris]

Dave Henderson is your best bet. on www.javu.co.uk or the javu facebook page.

[granticus]

Been bouldering round these parts for 7 years + and not heard of said problem or even said Tor...
Leigh Tor's not on Dave H's website either...
Whereabouts is it?  Is it any good?

There is a strong possibility it has not been done before...

Must say that this is sounding a bit suss? 

It's not anywhere near Spink Tor or Velocerap Tor is it??

[Hoseyb]

I have heard of Leigh tor,and remember some chatter about bouldering there back before I moved to Wales, and I wasclimbing a fair bit in Devon and Cornwall

here's a pic


however there ends my knowledge

[granticus]

Hosey Just seen that piccie with a quick bit of googleage reveals Leigh Tor aka Long Tor is in the SE of Dartmoor.  Grid Ref:SX711 714
Near Poundsgate.

Looks like there could be some potential there but hard to get a sense of scale from photos on t'interweb. 

So how good is it Dave?  Is it worth checking out?

[granticus]

Much used by outdoor groups for the Mod - Diff south-facing routes. Some promising bouldering.

Quote from the other channel...

So come on Dave spill the beans is it quality (ie. worth the trek down from N.Devon), is there much else to do there and what grade do you reckon?

I'm sure as soon as the more local folk catch a whiff of this they'll be on it, so beta should be forthcoming.

[Dangerous Dave 123]

AT a guess I'd say it goes at about V2... no idea about tech grade. Nothing else really worth doing there, only some stupidly easy climbs around the other side. So up too you really. If anyone wants to have a look see hit me up and I can meet you up there (might be a FA in it for you, as i havent done it yet)

[Steamboat Stello]

Not been there and have nothing really useful to add but just from the picture it looks like some potential for a kind of low fridge-hugging prow potential on the block in the middle of the photo. Or am I just dreaming? I'm moving to Devon (Exeter) next year and am a tad concerned about the relative lack of quality bouldering compared to what I'm used to in the Peak/Yokshire. Obviously there are little pockets of really decent stuff (I'd rate The Wave as one of the better 7a's I've done) but as far as I can tell you can count the number of quality problems in the high 7's on one hand? Am I wrong?

[granticus]

Not been there and have nothing really useful to add but just from the picture it looks like some potential for a kind of low fridge-hugging prow potential on the block in the middle of the photo. Or am I just dreaming? I'm moving to Devon (Exeter) next year and am a tad concerned about the relative lack of quality bouldering compared to what I'm used to in the Peak/Yokshire. Obviously there are little pockets of really decent stuff (I'd rate The Wave as one of the better 7a's I've done) but as far as I can tell you can count the number of quality problems in the high 7's on one hand? Am I wrong?

I think you might be wrong, they can be counted on two hands, remember Dartmoor granite is not the be all and end all of bouldering in the Shire.  Some very special problems around and about if you're prepared to travel a seek them out, on the Culm, Exmoor Coast and into Kernow.
Plus you don't get DWS in Yorkshire!

[Steamboat Stello]

DWS I am def keen to do lots more of, but obviously thats mostly limited to the summer. I'm well prepared for a bit of travelling, no doubt I'll be back in touch next year asking for beta! By the way I just spent about 10 min trying to google for a bouldering spot called Kernow... I've got a lot to learn!

[granticus]

DWS I am def keen to do lots more of, but obviously thats mostly limited to the summer. I'm well prepared for a bit of travelling, no doubt I'll be back in touch next year asking for beta! By the way I just spent about 10 min trying to google for a bouldering spot called Kernow... I've got a lot to learn!

Flippin' Grockels! Next you'll be looking for Porth Emmett...

As for Leigh Tor.. If I'm in the vicinity I might check it out but not likely to make a special trip.  Dave your just gonna have to man up and work the problem into submission...

[SA Chris]

You will definitely stand out from the locals unless you gen up a bit.

Actually keep your hands in your pockets too, your opposable thumb will also give you away.

[granticus]

You will definitely stand out from the locals unless you gen up a bit.

Actually keep your hands in your pockets too, your opposable thumb will also give you away.

Try to avoid talking too and if you can't understand what anyone is saying just nodd and say 'yaaarrp'..

[SA Chris]

And if you do talk, do it slooooooowly.

(I can't really take the piss, I was born in Daaaaarzet).

[granticus]

OK Steamboat  but here is a little tick list of Dartmoor Font 7a to 7c ish problems (with a couple of 6c's) that should keep you busy for a long time, more details on www.javu.co.uk
Saddle Tor - Dancing Queen, Super Trooper, Foal’s Chopper, V7 eliminate just right of Bjorn Again, Hidden Traverse Low, Rich’s Tick.

Hound Tor – Cream Traverse, Alan Smith, Wish (with a low start), Tuppy, Stray Dog.

Bonehill – Lowla, Arkem, The Dark Side, The Left Arete of the Scoop, Under the Bridge, The Wave, Tsunami.

Bell Tor – Famous Grouse

Honey Bag Tor – Flying Visit

Black Hill Boulders – Rowe’s Arete (OK so it’s probably font 6c but it’s very nice)..

Smallacombe Rocks – Yorkshire Tea

Easdon Rocks – Easdon Arete

Raven’s Tor (Lustleigh Cleave) – Hung Like a Chimp

Holwell Tor – Schmogon

Sourton Tors – Sourton Traverse

Combeshead Tor – Problem 2 from a sitter, Proof of Concept (again 6c but brilliant), Dyno from Undercuts, Peeping Tom,

Bench Tor – Bench Press

[Steamboat Stello]

As promised I've started having a go at your list granticus, had a couple of great days out so thanks for that! Some questions:

Hound Tor:
Where does cream tea traverse start and finish? Going left to right, once you come round the corner and move up the arete it just gets dirtier and dirtier so I assume you just mantle it out in the middle somewhere? Got to say its pretty uninspiring for one of the "classic hard problems of the moor" but climbs ok, although its basically an exercise in skin tolerance.

On Wish (low start), how low is low!?

Saddle Tor - Is Rich's tick an eliminate? I just moved 10cm right on the lip and it seemed too easy.

I'm assuming a jump start on Dancing Queen isn't kosher?

On a general note, lots of the problems were pretty dirty, is the moor out of fashion these days or is everyone just hiding in Bovey Woods and on the coast?
 

[jakes]

I'd also add:

Haytor Quarry- Straight No Chaser, V7

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorRoutes/Haytor/HaytorQuarry.shtml

[jakes]

This list may help IRT Dartmoor stuff.

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/HardSWBoulders2006/dartmoor_list.shtml

[Steamboat Stello]

Cheers for that Jakes. I'll check out Straight No Chaser at some point.

Foals Chopper SS V9? 

[andyd]

SNC was a DWS last time I looked