[Nike Air]

Did a new route climbing the overhanging prow above the boulder problem 'Armistice'(left of the E5 Van Winkle) at Baildon Bank.
Low gear in The Big Curver and Van Winkle. Font 7c/+ slapping well above the pro.
Jordan Buys
Friday 23rd of Movember 2012.

[andy_e]

Holy crap, what a line! Effort!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112694

[Fiend]

Nice dude. Is the Curver well out of reach then?

[nai]

Facebook image so usual viewing problems may apply:

[Adi Gill]

Nice one Jordan, the crags first E8, good skills and not one to fall off.

[Wood FT]

strong line, good effort

[Stubbs]

Nice! Is the mat not hung over the climbing at the start?

[dave]

Nice one Jordan. To use a bit of rhyming slang, it doesn't look "baildon bank" at all, looks pretty good.

P.S. hope the tickmarks got brushed off afterwards.....

[tomtom]

Nice! Is the mat not hung over the climbing at the start?

oooooh... I sense a knee pad stylee debate coming on...



ps - sweet effort.
pps - glad to see you wearing a helmet. Baildon Bank is the only crag in the world where I have had a rock fall and land on my head...

[Nike Air]

really independent climbing and yes that's a pad on the massive spike jug of the classic boulder problem below. I wasn't feeling like climbing E9 that day or breaking the spike!!

[Will Hunt]

That looks awesome, nice one Jordan!

Just to ensure a dose of boredom, my crap physics knowledge is telling me that the gear set up is a bit wack. Mind you it looks useful for about two moves!

Just seen the video. Fucking hell, Jordan! That looks wild!

[tomtom]

really independent climbing and yes that's a pad on the massive spike jug of the classic boulder problem below. I wasn't feeling like climbing E9 that day or breaking the spike!!

Superb! Cool moves!
A knee bar, lots of high heels and that guppy looks mad!

[dave]

fuck thats steeper than it looks in the first photo! Bet you could take a nasty pisser off that.

[Falling Down]

Brilliant.  Gasped when your foot popped at the top. Great moves.

[Nike Air]

I tried a fancy knee pad for that knee scum at 1.27 but it turned out better just having the jeans against the rock!!!.....

Dave Sutcliffe filmed it from above with a swanky camera which is great quality compared to my offering. Hopefully put that up somewhere soon.

[SA Chris]

Just to ensure a dose of boredom, my crap physics knowledge is telling me that the gear set up is a bit wack.

What's your concern? Without knowing what the actual placements are it looks fine to me. Ballsy bit o climbing, has anyone tried it before?

[rosmat]

Firstly, top effort J.

The problem with the gear arrangement is one sling clipped through two bits of gear "death triangle" style. Two probs:
- places 100 % load on both bits of gear.
- reduces strength of sling.

See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle

[slackline]

Firstly, top effort J.

The problem with the gear arrangement is one sling clipped through two bits of gear "death triangle" style. Two probs:
- places 100 % load on both bits of gear.
- reduces strength of sling.

See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle

On the plus side if the directional force/tension holds the two pieces in place when otherwise they would fall out.....

Let us know what gear arrangement you use on your repeat ascent so though. 

[SA Chris]

I thought there were clove hitches at the biners, but it looks not.

[Johnny Brown]

There's a lot of bollocks talked about this kind of stuff. Just because one setup is stronger than another does not make one 'death' and one 'safe'.

[Fiend]

Beast Of Baildon! Nice one, I like the knee-scum + double guppy move. Not enough of them at Baildon.

[andy_e]

Not enough of them anywhere!

[Nibile]

Strong bold mofo.
Fine effort.

[rosmat]

Let us know what gear arrangement you use on your repeat ascent so though. 

Chill out. I was just answering the question from SA Chris.

[rosmat]

There's a lot of bollocks talked about this kind of stuff. Just because one setup is stronger than another does not make one 'death' and one 'safe'.

 , but "Death Triangle" is only the name of the arrangement - not a cast iron prediction.

To be fair when you look at the comparisons, the "triangle" arrangement places approx 200+% of the load onto each anchor when compared to a V arrangement.

But as Slackers says - there are advantages for directional placments.

Sorry, prob the wrong thread for this discussion.  

[Grubes]

I think the problem is your post came across as the usual pointless UKC bullshit that will no doubt come up in a week or so when they exclusively break" this new story

[rosmat]

Ah I see. Sorry, I didn't mean for it to come across like that, I was just trying to answer SA Chris's question.

[slackline]

I think Jordan probably knows what he was doing with the gear placements there though.

[rosmat]

Yep. Sure your right.

[rosmat]

I think the problem is your post came across as the usual pointless UKC bullshit that will no doubt come up in a week or so when they exclusively break" this new story

It's happening already on the other channel. Fuds.

[Will Hunt]

rosmat, I'm going to wad you for heroically taking 200+% of the flak for the comment originally made by me!
 

[rosmat]

Ha I know, I considered pointing it out - but it somehow seemed like inappropriate snitching! 

[slackline]

I read Will's comments as "the gear appears to be so low as to be useless and what is that mat doing strapped onto the rocks?"

[rosmat]

Ha, that hadn't even occured to me Slackers, but now you say it I can see what you mean.

[Dexter]

its for multipitching it right?
fine effort looks awesome

[Nike Air]

The better video is now online on the Moon climbing vimeo page thingy.

[andy_e]

[tomtom]

Superb!

[Will Hunt]

Crumbs! The double guppy looks powerful!

[petejh]

That looks well ace, effort Jordan!

The problem with the gear arrangement is one sling clipped through two bits of gear "death triangle" style.
..

I fail to see what gun crime has got to do with it: http://www.bradynetwork.org/site/MessageViewer?em_id=17381.0&printer_friendly=1

[andy_e]

Protection was needed as it's rough around those parts...