[SA Chris]

"The grade of any new route will drift like a floating interest rate until some local climber—usually the biggest twat at the crag—deems himself important enough to be the one to publish a guidebook. The Guidebook Author becomes, for all intents and purposes, the self-proclaimed God of Grades and he wields his absolute power by getting the final say in what grades appear in his book."

No names mentioned?

[Pantontino]

"The grade of any new route will drift like a floating interest rate until some local climber—usually the biggest twat at the crag—deems himself important enough to be the one to publish a guidebook. The Guidebook Author becomes, for all intents and purposes, the self-proclaimed God of Grades and he wields his absolute power by getting the final say in what grades appear in his book."

No names mentioned?

I think Shark was saying that I'm the biggest twat at the crag, or maybe he meant Pete Harrison? Pete is pretty bad, but I think on balance I'm slightly more of a twat than him.

[shark]

I think Shark was saying that I'm the biggest twat at the crag, or maybe he meant Pete Harrison? Pete is pretty bad, but I think on balance I'm slightly more of a twat than him.

I'll take your word for it

[Doylo]

"The grade of any new route will drift like a floating interest rate until some local climber—usually the biggest twat at the crag—deems himself important enough to be the one to publish a guidebook. The Guidebook Author becomes, for all intents and purposes, the self-proclaimed God of Grades and he wields his absolute power by getting the final say in what grades appear in his book."

No names mentioned?

I think Shark was saying that I'm the biggest twat at the crag, or maybe he meant Pete Harrison? Pete is pretty bad, but I think on balance I'm slightly more of a twat than him.

It's fucking close 

[Pantontino]

"The grade of any new route will drift like a floating interest rate until some local climber—usually the biggest twat at the crag—deems himself important enough to be the one to publish a guidebook. The Guidebook Author becomes, for all intents and purposes, the self-proclaimed God of Grades and he wields his absolute power by getting the final say in what grades appear in his book."

No names mentioned?

I think Shark was saying that I'm the biggest twat at the crag, or maybe he meant Pete Harrison? Pete is pretty bad, but I think on balance I'm slightly more of a twat than him.

It's fucking close 

Especially if you consider all the other collossal twats who hang out in the Cave. Some of them deserve special awards for services to twatdom.

[Doylo]

There's some right massive gashes in there

[SA Chris]

TBH I was thinking he was referencing Ru, but I guess if you are a self proclaimed God you think everyone is talking abou you

[petejh]

Stop talking about me everyone.

Si you're by far a much bigger twat than me. But if Doylo ever stops looking at granny pr0n and writes a guidebook he'll easily out-twat the both of us.

[Doylo]

I think you mean Grandad pr0n

[iwasmexican]

hate to resurrect this but whats the status of using kneepads in competitions, are they allowed? just out of curiousity...

[mr__j5]

I can't see anything in the rules that says the only equipment allowed for WC bouldering is shoes and a chalk bag, but I would expect that that is the case.

[fatneck]

All this talk of twats and not a single mention of BenF whose names is officially spelt T.W.A.T.  What is the world coming to!!

[iwasmexican]

  masterful 

[Fiend]

1:40 stick that in yer pipes.

[turnipturned]

Kneepads just change the goalposts of the climbable and, possibly, make the game more interesting, just like chalk, sticky rubber, bouldering pads and the rest

and extendable ladders I think they are a complete game changer (especially for highballs), so far it seems that its mainly a UK thing!!

Anyway a quick question for experienced kneebarers! Any advice on how to make them not slip? I presume Barrows is wearing shorts in the middle of winter as the pads tend to grip better to skin rather than your trousers?

[abarro81]

If you really want zero slippage it's a big faff, but here's the American beta:
1. Shave your upper leg. This is essential to avoid severe pain after the next steps.
2. Get some of this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mueller-Sports-Strapping-Support-Adhesive/dp/B001C0I450/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363687401&sr=8-1
Spray it on your leg before you put the pad on. Don't do this if you have a pretty dress to wear in the near future as it leaves a weird black mark that looks like you have a bruised leg.
3. Gaffa tape: once round the leg, then once half on the leg half on the pad and once round the pad. The final round may need to be half on the leg and half on the pad instead of all on the pad on some kneebars as otherwise you'll find the gaffa in the way.

You're only likely to need one of steps 2 and 3 unless it's hardcore knees and then you want both. (e.g. for pilgrimage I used spray and gaffa on the right leg but just using spray was fine for the left. Spray may not be needed for the 5.10 ones as they have a less slippy interior material than the rock and resole ones I've been using recently.

As for when they're over trousers, I'm not sure how to stop slippage well as it's the trouser that usually does the sliding rather than the pad

[scottygillery]

If you really want zero slippage it's a big faff, but here's the American beta:
1. Shave your upper leg. This is essential to avoid severe pain after the next steps.
2. Get some of this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mueller-Sports-Strapping-Support-Adhesive/dp/B001C0I450/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363687401&sr=8-1
Spray it on your leg before you put the pad on. Don't do this if you have a pretty dress to wear in the near future as it leaves a weird black mark that looks like you have a bruised leg.
3. Gaffa tape: once round the leg, then once half on the leg half on the pad and once round the pad. The final round may need to be half on the leg and half on the pad instead of all on the pad on some kneebars as otherwise you'll find the gaffa in the way.

You're only likely to need one of steps 2 and 3 unless it's hardcore knees and then you want both. (e.g. for pilgrimage I used spray and gaffa on the right leg but just using spray was fine for the left. Spray may not be needed for the 5.10 ones as they have a less slippy interior material than the rock and resole ones I've been using recently.

As for when they're over trousers, I'm not sure how to stop slippage well as it's the trouser that usually does the sliding rather than the pad

wow, Alex you are a bigger nerd than I realised

[csurfleet]

This kneebarring bollocks is becoming more appealing the geekier it becomes!

[Doylo]

Ideal trousers for 5.10 pad??

[petejh]

Rubber ones?

You of all people must own a pair.

[Doylo]

I do. They limit flexibility too much ...

[abarro81]

Even with that hole you cut out on the ass?

[Bonjoy]

It’s only a matter of time before someone invents kneebarring trousers with stitched in pads.

[lagerstarfish]

Snickers?

[ziggytang]

It’s only a matter of time before someone invents kneebarring trousers with stitched in pads.

Pretty certain I saw Doylo in the cave with jeans on that had bits of old five ten rubber glued all over the knees...