[clgladiator]

did I not make my opinion clear enough? It's a shit topic and although I'm not going to stop ridiculing Alex for his use of kneebars as is my prerogative, anyone who can't except the use of kneebars is the climbing equivalent of the luddites.

[Danny]

Wow...14 pages later and all that. Interesting comments from both sides.

Re: use of kneepads on lips etc., they are useful for this sort of thing. I think at the moment some people underestimate just how useful they can be. I used mine on quite a few problems in font in this sort of way. Back home, on this particular problem i can get a "knee hook" instead of a toe at 0.35, then use a heel hook to knee type scum on the top out:



For what it's worth, I think these things will be commonplace here in the UK very shortly, and that will be that, for most folk.

[a dense loner]

People don't underestimate how useful they can be! That's the whole point, they're bloody amazing
People keep interchanging the words knee pads and kneebars in this thread. They are not the same

[Danny]

To clarify, some folk have suggested that kneepads are only really helpful on a small minority of problems, or at specific venues. I'm suggesting that they are more versatile than this, because they can be used in many other situations, particularly on slopey lips and top outs. 

[Eddies]

For what it's worth, I think these things will be commonplace here in the UK very shortly, and that will be that, for most folk.

We need to get cracking with the knacking... Sack off the new UKB T-Shirt, what we all really need is a UKB Kneepad....
Or at least a UKB T-shirt thats printed upside down so it can be read by the punters whilst the wads rest easy and prepare for the next crush phase 

[rich d]

For what it's worth, I think these things will be commonplace here in the UK very shortly, and that will be that, for most folk.

We need to get cracking with the knacking... Sack off the new UKB T-Shirt, what we all really need is a UKB Kneepad....
Or at least a UKB T-shirt thats printed upside down so it can be read by the punters whilst the wads rest easy and prepare for the next crush phase 

I wanna take you to a knee bar, I wanna take you to a knee bar! Etc etc

[tomtom]

For what it's worth, I think these things will be commonplace here in the UK very shortly, and that will be that, for most folk.

We need to get cracking with the knacking... Sack off the new UKB T-Shirt, what we all really need is a UKB Kneepad....
Or at least a UKB T-shirt thats printed upside down so it can be read by the punters whilst the wads rest easy and prepare for the next crush phase 

I wanna take you to a knee bar, I wanna take you to a knee bar! Etc etc

Knee bad! as they say north of the border...

[SA Chris]

We need to get cracking with the knacking... Sack off the new UKB T-Shirt, what we all really need is a UKB Kneepad....

I think Stu L is getting his mum to ramp up production as we speak.

[SA Chris]

I don't know any more I thought they were good.  Then got convinced they were bad.  Now I think they might be good again.  Someone needs to tell me what to do.

Indecisive Dave

[lagerstarfish]

I wanna take you to a knee bar, I wanna take you to a knee bar!

I've got something to put in you
kneebar kneebar

[Pantontino]

I don't know any more I thought they were good.  Then got convinced they were bad.  Now I think they might be good again.  Someone needs to tell me what to do.

Indecisive Dave

  Somebody mentioned this sketch at the wall last night - Dave is now fully anti pads/rubber gimp suits (just in case anybody was wondering)

[andy_e]

Dave is now fully anti pads/rubber gimp suits for climbing use but not for recreational use.

[Bonjoy]

How many turns of the thumb screw did that take?

[Pantontino]

How many turns of the thumb screw did that take?

Are thumb screws allowed too?!

Wish I'd known that. All I did was present a clear and level headed case against the 'rubberisation of the Cave'. Nodder had already decided of his own volition. "I don't do shades of grey, just black or white. That's how I roll." [might be a slight paraphrase]

[Bonjoy]

He rolls like a Panda then

[shark]

He rolls like a Panda then

[Doylo]

  Somebody mentioned this sketch at the wall last night - Dave is now fully anti pads/rubber gimp suits (just in case anybody was wondering)

Does this mean he's handed his Broken Trigger FA over to Pete?

[turnipturned]

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-more-v15s-nalle-hukkataival

I fell 6 times from the last move and when I climbed it, I used my forehead while manteling! Does that give me less or more style points!?"

Rubber headband anyone?

[rodma]

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-more-v15s-nalle-hukkataival

I fell 6 times from the last move and when I climbed it, I used my forehead while manteling! Does that give me less or more style points!?"

Rubber headband anyone?

Swimming cap?

I can actually think of one problem that might be a fair bit easier with double rubber knees and that would be vcrimps at bowden. don't think a hands off would be possible (footholds would almost certainly explode), but it ought to make matching the V easier. i couldn't do this problem till soemone (you know who you are) showed me the double knee scums, so i'm assuming that if the rubber improves the purchase, then it would/could/should be downgraded

[lagerstarfish]

He rolls like a Panda then

eats, shoots and leaves ?

[barbe1]

Man this thread is absolute gold. Please don't let it die. Its sooo good to read while I wait for simulations to run on CONDOR.

PS Barrows is a clown. An unfunny clown.

[Sasquatch]

He rolls like a Panda then

eats, shoots and leaves ?

Nah, that's how we 'mericans roll.

at least on 8a

[mr__j5]

Kneebars, are amusingly mentioned in this.


http://eveningsends.com/2012/12/the-problem-with-personal-grades/

[shark]

Kneebars, are amusingly mentioned in this.


http://eveningsends.com/2012/12/the-problem-with-personal-grades/

"The grade of any new route will drift like a floating interest rate until some local climber—usually the biggest twat at the crag—deems himself important enough to be the one to publish a guidebook. The Guidebook Author becomes, for all intents and purposes, the self-proclaimed God of Grades and he wields his absolute power by getting the final say in what grades appear in his book."

 

[Bonjoy]

Good read that one. One for the blogroll?