Quote from: nodder on November 28, 2012, 03:04:25 pmEliminating equipment isn't quite the same as eliminating holds though is it?Eliminating pads is just eliminating knee holds by another name.
Eliminating equipment isn't quite the same as eliminating holds though is it?
Quote from: Bonjoy on November 28, 2012, 03:34:59 pmQuote from: nodder on November 28, 2012, 03:04:25 pmEliminating equipment isn't quite the same as eliminating holds though is it?Eliminating pads is just eliminating knee holds by another name.No it isn't
BTW - I didn't comment on the Mecca thread because it was a train wreck.What I would have said, so might as well say now is; having failled on the route with and without a kneepad and being quite handy with kneebars, I think it makes a huge difference, possibly enough to drop the grade, but I don't have enough experience at the grade to be fully sure. How can a half decent rest halfway up a PE route not make things a lot easier? Anyone who doesn't get a good rest off that knee, either has unusually short lower legs or is bad at resting on kneebars.
I thought Dave Graham used a huge knee pad when he did Kings of Leon in Swizzy, Chris Sharma said he tried it that way too (Dosage 4?). Seems like that was about 135 years ago ... so I always assumed that knee pads are in Not got a knee pad myself, usually just and bear it.
But rockattrocity might be easier in crampons doesnt men you should use them
Ethics from more cluttered forms of climbing require boundaries and development control as the equipment plays such a major part in the overall pursuit.
threatening to bring boundaries into a pastime that is by its very conception, is so defined otherwise.
Shoes, chalk and mats all have good and bad arguments but have been accepted for very good reasons.
This is about Bouldering, in the UK.
As Stu says Halfway, Broken Trigger and Daisy From Concrete have all been done with kneepads and no ones kicked up too much of a stink. Pantontino never said anything derogatory about those ascents, it's the footage of the no hander that really rubbed salt in the wound IMO.
Knee pads are a game changer for bouldering
It doesn't surprise me, people love giving me shit
I don't know any more I thought they were good. Then got convinced they were bad. Now I think they might be good again. Someone needs to tell me what to do.
Quote from: nodder on November 28, 2012, 04:20:30 pmI don't know any more I thought they were good. Then got convinced they were bad. Now I think they might be good again. Someone needs to tell me what to do.Don't worry Nodder, I woke up this morning convinced that they were cheating yet now I'm wearing a rubber catsuit.
You were gonna take 8b for Directors with pads!!
Pantontino never said anything derogatory about those ascents
Quote from: Doylo on November 28, 2012, 04:06:23 pm Pantontino never said anything derogatory about those ascentsThat's unfair Doylo - you know this subject has been discussed extensively (away from the internet) over the last year or so. I've had numerous discussions/debates, with Nodder, Pete (and you) about it. At first I wasn't sure where it was heading and how far it would influence things in the Cave. I listened to both sides and felt increasingly uneasy about it. Yes, that film of Alex was the clincher for me, but that doesn't undermine my current viewpoint at all.Oh, and Pete told me that the TC knee bar doesn't work for him.
Quote from: Pantontino on November 28, 2012, 04:34:19 pmQuote from: Doylo on November 28, 2012, 04:06:23 pm Pantontino never said anything derogatory about those ascentsThat's unfair Doylo - you know this subject has been discussed extensively (away from the internet) over the last year or so. I've had numerous discussions/debates, with Nodder, Pete (and you) about it. At first I wasn't sure where it was heading and how far it would influence things in the Cave. I listened to both sides and felt increasingly uneasy about it. Yes, that film of Alex was the clincher for me, but that doesn't undermine my current viewpoint at all.Oh, and Pete told me that the TC knee bar doesn't work for him.I don't remember you being unduly negative though. I saw Pete do Trigger Cut with the pad and he reached to the shothole pretty damn slowly. It was on the cusp for him though and he's got TC pretty wired anyway
I wasn't ranting in people's faces about it (like I am now) but I did say a long time ago that the obvious solution was to use split grades for the Cave. All that has happened since then is that my opinion has hardened.