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Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c (Read 7222 times)

Tommy

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#25 Re: Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c
November 24, 2012, 11:31:22 am
Jon, it's a nasty offwidth in the Czech republic. Maybe I should get rid of it a replace it with something I'm actually going to do again?!

Cheeks n' Beaks + Earth Boots is a good combo. Nice and close to each other. CnB get's seepage/drainage though doesn't it?

dave

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#26 Re: Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c
November 24, 2012, 12:29:33 pm
CnB can be damp at the top, but its often still doable and can stay dry in snow etc. With good beta I wouldn't class it as a crimpy wall though, it just doesnt climb like that. Brilliant problem though.

Johnny Brown

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#27 Re: Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c
November 24, 2012, 12:51:36 pm
Quote
What about Yarn Spinner Nigel, would that fit?

No, as Jon said its a proper slab. Scoop de grace would fit the bill if it was easier and not in the west.

I think a visit to Brownstones is the best suggestion so far. Or Dob edge.

r-man

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#28 Re: Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c
November 25, 2012, 04:05:38 pm
The mighty brownstones....

Thunder 7b+
Hanks (one of a good hand full of eliminate ways) 7b-7c
Groundhog sitter 7b+
Ninja Fingers 7b+/c
Pigswill, loads of bollocks variations upto 7b+
Rusty wall 7b/+
Colt 7c+

All vertical, about 3-6 moves, grit, quarried, world class  :yes:

And if you are in the area, might as well do the Bignag, Ridiculous Eliminate (more of a strict line) and Lifeline sitter, all 7Bish. 

Questions:
What's the 7C eliminate on Hanks?
Have you repeated Colt sans break? Top effort if so! Beta?
Rusty Wall? 6C+ish, innit? Very good though.

Tommy, give me a shout if you head to Brownstones - I'd be keen to jump on Thunder and Ninja Fingers if we can get a good amount of pads together.

And if you head to Brownstones, a mile down the road are the Wiltons, with lots to go at. Best 7B/C problems are:

Wilton 1
Fingertoe, 7C
Barbara's Man. 7B
Wilton 3
Rodin's Direct, 7B? (Another highball I'd like to try with a team)
Wilton 2
Bone Down 7B+


Moontan is a good one - not only cos it feels quarried, but because to me it feels 7b+/c.

I got shut down the first time I tried it (when it was 7A+). Grumbled that it couldn't be easier than 7B, then went back a different time and it felt steady at 7A+. Let's just grade it 7.









Bonjoy

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#29 Re: Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c
November 25, 2012, 07:39:04 pm
Jon, it's a nasty offwidth in the Czech republic. Maybe I should get rid of it a replace it with something I'm actually going to do again?!
Don't know if it's just me, but all I get is a white square with a quarter of a picture in one corner. Odd.
What about that random 7b+ of Huffy's in a Quarry on the golf course behind Bell Hagg, think it's called Tolerance.

dave

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#30 Re: Trying to find quarried 7b+ and 7c
November 25, 2012, 08:33:02 pm
I don't think that is quarried, unless its been quarried since Cofe and I tried it.

 

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