[Tommy]

I'm having a bit of a puzzle about what to grade a crux of a route I'm working on (I'm not exactly great a bouldering and even worse at grading) and was wondering if people could point me in the direction of a few problems of a similar difficulty and style that I'm looking at. The requirements are:

1. Font 7b+ or 7c
2. Vertical quarried grit. Plum vertical. No slabs.
3. Crimpy
4. 3 or 4 moves, not some stamina fest traverse.
5. Eastern Grit

I've asked loads of people this question in the pub and the answers have been a bit sparse, so you lot (R-man, get the lists out) better be good 

Thanks in advance....

[Fiend]

Nik's Wall?? 

[Johnny Brown]

Hmm, that's a pretty tight set of parameters. I can think of a few that fit most, but not all:

Walk on by (fits all but 7C+)
Perfect Day direct (not that crimpy)
The Rib (a perfect fit, at least for the right half of your body)
Andle Stone Wall (not quarried)
Mint 400 (not enough moves, too easy, supposedly)



Also worth running a 'build a ticklist' search on pb.info.

[north_country_boy]

The Art of white hat wearing? (7b/+)

[Tommy]

Ah, some ones I'd not heard of in there already. Great.

Where is Andle Stone Wall?

[Stevie]

leotard legend and trellis (7a)

Art of white hat is a good one from Dan.

[cofe]

Cheeks n Beaks.
Welford's Wall at Millstone.

[Percy B]

Little Gem at Burb South might be worth a look. 7b (but a stiff one until you have it dialled), crimpy as death, close to the car, doable on your tod with one pad, won't split your tips as bad The Rib will, and probably very much like the route you are trying

Pedants will note that this isn't quarried grit, but it climbs just like it.

[Nigel]

Knowing all these problems, and making a totally unjustified assumption of what type of thing you're likely to find on a quarried route, I would say Cofe's suggestions fit the bill the best.

[Plattsy]

Cheeks n Beaks.
Welford's Wall at Millstone.

Knowing all these problems, and making a totally unjustified assumption of what type of thing you're likely to find on a quarried route, I would say Cofe's suggestions fit the bill the best.

Nice.*

* Intentional or not

[Drew]

How overhanging is Zorev?
How about Once Upon a Time (Burb N), Spartacus, Green Death Direct?

[cofe]

you should get puntered for most of those drew

[andy popp]

The only way is Cheshire. Surely?

At Pex the adjacent Catalepsy (7a+), Breakaway (7b) and Monoblock (7c+) offer a brilliant schooling, along with a host of others, and problems such as Babyblock (7a+) at Harmers Wood.

OK, not Eastern Grit, but an easy day trip from the Peak.

[Probes]

The mighty brownstones....

Thunder 7b+
Hanks (one of a good hand full of eliminate ways) 7b-7c
Groundhog sitter 7b+
Ninja Fingers 7b+/c
Pigswill, loads of bollocks variations upto 7b+
Rusty wall 7b/+
Colt 7c+

All vertical, about 3-6 moves, grit, quarried, world class 

[andy_e]

Selling it there P-Rob.

[Bonjoy]

Not quarried but otherwise fitting the bill - Who Needs Ready Brek 7c and Moontan 7b

[dave]

Moontan is a good one - not only cos it feels quarried, but because to me it feels 7b+/c.

[Tommy]

Excellent - thanks for all those everyone! Almost all of them I've not heard of/vaguely remember of in the recesses of my mind, so loads to keep me occupied.

I shall go forth and get whooped.

[Tommy]

One last question - is Welford's wall at Millstone in the last bay where Saville St is?

[cofe]

I remembered it's called Brigadoon. It's at the left hand end of the short walls opposite Saville St etc. Almost the last rock before the LGP block.

[Nigel]

Yeah, having checked in again, stick with Cofe's suggestions, they're the only ones that fit your spec! Although Moontan is also a good one.

[andy popp]

What about Yarn Spinner Nigel, would that fit?

[Nigel]

Despite the photo and misleading caption in the guide, I don't know, because I haven't done it! Or at least I don't remember doing it, think me and Bonjoy knocked attempts on the head to go do Calamity Crack. Can't find my climbing diary at the mo which would have the definitive answer, BJ or JB may know...   

[Tom de Gay]

You'll need a string for it, but Earthboots at Rivelin Quarry matches all the other criteria.

[Bonjoy]

Despite the photo and misleading caption in the guide, I don't know, because I haven't done it! Or at least I don't remember doing it, think me and Bonjoy knocked attempts on the head to go do Calamity Crack. Can't find my climbing diary at the mo which would have the definitive answer, BJ or JB may know...

That sounds right to me. I remember it more as a slab than a wall anyway.

Dave - I agree re Moontan grade.

BTW Tommy. I may have asked this before, but wtf is your profile picture supposed to be?

[Tommy]

Jon, it's a nasty offwidth in the Czech republic. Maybe I should get rid of it a replace it with something I'm actually going to do again?!

Cheeks n' Beaks + Earth Boots is a good combo. Nice and close to each other. CnB get's seepage/drainage though doesn't it?

[dave]

CnB can be damp at the top, but its often still doable and can stay dry in snow etc. With good beta I wouldn't class it as a crimpy wall though, it just doesnt climb like that. Brilliant problem though.

[Johnny Brown]

What about Yarn Spinner Nigel, would that fit?

No, as Jon said its a proper slab. Scoop de grace would fit the bill if it was easier and not in the west.

I think a visit to Brownstones is the best suggestion so far. Or Dob edge.

[r-man]

The mighty brownstones....

Thunder 7b+
Hanks (one of a good hand full of eliminate ways) 7b-7c
Groundhog sitter 7b+
Ninja Fingers 7b+/c
Pigswill, loads of bollocks variations upto 7b+
Rusty wall 7b/+
Colt 7c+

All vertical, about 3-6 moves, grit, quarried, world class 

And if you are in the area, might as well do the Bignag, Ridiculous Eliminate (more of a strict line) and Lifeline sitter, all 7Bish. 

Questions:
What's the 7C eliminate on Hanks?
Have you repeated Colt sans break? Top effort if so! Beta?
Rusty Wall? 6C+ish, innit? Very good though.

Tommy, give me a shout if you head to Brownstones - I'd be keen to jump on Thunder and Ninja Fingers if we can get a good amount of pads together.

And if you head to Brownstones, a mile down the road are the Wiltons, with lots to go at. Best 7B/C problems are:

Wilton 1
Fingertoe, 7C
Barbara's Man. 7B
Wilton 3
Rodin's Direct, 7B? (Another highball I'd like to try with a team)
Wilton 2
Bone Down 7B+

Moontan is a good one - not only cos it feels quarried, but because to me it feels 7b+/c.

I got shut down the first time I tried it (when it was 7A+). Grumbled that it couldn't be easier than 7B, then went back a different time and it felt steady at 7A+. Let's just grade it 7.

[Bonjoy]

Jon, it's a nasty offwidth in the Czech republic. Maybe I should get rid of it a replace it with something I'm actually going to do again?!

Don't know if it's just me, but all I get is a white square with a quarter of a picture in one corner. Odd.
What about that random 7b+ of Huffy's in a Quarry on the golf course behind Bell Hagg, think it's called Tolerance.

[dave]

I don't think that is quarried, unless its been quarried since Cofe and I tried it.