[Kingy]

The Wagon project in Ticino has been climbed by Nalle that featured in Dosage 3. no news on the grade but it has to be 8b+ i reckon. I recall that some years ago James Pearson had figured out some new beta that didn't involve a crazy dyno but the area was banned before the final send

[a dense loner]

It was done with the dyno, the heel was found to be too hit n miss, apparently

[clgladiator]

Nalle better hurry up and get his video of his trip out. Its going to be amazing 

[Jim]

keenus did it with the heel but fell off after 'the move' iirc

[r-man]

But did Nalle do the sitstart...?

[Doylo]

Shame Darse didn't get it. People forget how shit hot at bouldering he was. He flashed four 8a+s!!

[cofe]

What Doylo said.

[Fiend]

Nallllllllle 

[Nibile]

Shame Darse didn't get it. People forget how shit hot at bouldering he was. He flashed four 8a+s!!

He's still quite good at it. When he and Caroline came over here, despite James asking for "7a's and 7b's" the day before, he crushed everything from 7b+ to 8a (two goes) falling on the last move on a hard 8a/+ (the roof) on the flash and not trying it again.

[Stubbs]

So did this area get unbanned then, or is this like some of their FA's in South Africa that were at banned crags...

[Wipey Why]

 

[SA Chris]

So did this area get unbanned then, or is this like some of their FA's in South Africa that were at banned crags...

A very good question. The wads seem to think they are above bans.

[Paul B]

So did this area get unbanned then, or is this like some of their FA's in South Africa that were at banned crags...

I was thinking the same.

[clgladiator]

banned or not its still an amazing looking project that has been climbed. Who got into climbing for a love of its politics anyway?

[slackline]

banned or not its still an amazing looking project that has been climbed. Who got into climbing for a love of its politics anyway?

I doubt very very few did, but the actions of a few can jepordise future access for everyone else regardless of how amazing the project/problem is. 

[clgladiator]

 

Ithe actions of a few can jepordise future access for everyone

unless everyone else ignores any access restrictions.... 

[slackline]

Don't be a dick.

[Stubbs]

When the access issues started in this area, a farmer threatened to spray the boulders with grease.  Respecting access arrangements isn't really politics, it's just common sense, and it's a shame such high profile climbers were seen to be ignoring arrangements in SA. 

Not sure if this article sheds any light, nit sure where exactly this climb is http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40144#

Here's the original topic http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7179.0.html

[Adam Lincoln]

8c 

http://blog.nallehukkataival.com/post/36283210728/off-the-wagon?ref=nf

[leeroy]

good footage of pearson heel method on here

[JMB]

From Nalle's blog:

Important note: Although other areas in this valley aren’t concerned, this particular boulder is access sensitive due to it’s proximity to some houses. Please be respectful when visiting this boulder and keep the noise down.

He also gave it a grade of 8C.

[SA Chris]

Who got into climbing for a love of its politics anyway?

What a daft statemet. No-one loves the politics (except sloper), but like it or not politics are a part of what we do in the modern climbing world. Visiting climbers on the jollys in SA climbing in areas under temporary restriction during acces negotiations risked imposition of permanent bans on these areas due to ignoring the restrictions. This is not the UK, there is no CRoW and no Rights of Way. It seems Nalle has ignored a ban respected by other climbers too.

[Doylo]

Yeee Sharma would of pissed it if it was 8b+ 

[cowboyhat]

Shame Darse didn't get it. People forget how shit hot at bouldering he was. He flashed four 8a+s!!

I can't believe its come in at 8c! James so nearly did it, I have in memory him fluffing the easy end bit a couple of times, (maybe its more like the not so easy end bit, BUT STILL 8C!)

[r-man]

Did Rhys get footage of this, or was that a different trip? It's a shame the crabstix swiss dvd never got released.

[Doylo]

Did Rhys get footage of this, or was that a different trip? It's a shame the crabstix swiss dvd never got released.

He got Shark Hunt flash on camera too didn't he! He should stick the raw footage on youtube, i presume the DVDs not coming out now...

[r-man]

In the first half of 2007 I took a few bouldering trips Switzerland. I began to focus on "flashing" hard boulder problems... I flashed "The Ganymede Takeover" at Brione, Ticino. My ascent, along with many other hard problems was filmed by Crabstix productions and will be released in a film about myself in 2008.

... "The Great Shark Hunt" at Chironico. Again, my ascent was captured on film by Crabstix productions.

... "Schule des Lebens" which again was captured on film.

Looks pretty close on the Wagon project in this clip! Come on Rhys, let us see, let us see!

[remus]

A chap on UKC seems to think the access restrictions have been relaxed somewhat:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=528363

access is possible from nov-feb. BUT its sensible! no big groups! no gathering on the meadow (what provoked the "access-issues). walk at the side, don't cross the meadow. listen to the locals. use common sense!
happy climbing, martin

[Doylo]

Moony footage too! Dave Mason looked about 12 there...

A chap on UKC seems to think the access restrictions have been relaxed somewhat:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=528363

access is possible from nov-feb. BUT its sensible! no big groups! no gathering on the meadow (what provoked the "access-issues). walk at the side, don't cross the meadow. listen to the locals. use common sense!
happy climbing, martin

Martin Keller perhaps?

[Nibile]

Yes I think it's him.

[Percy B]

Repeated and down-graded to 8B+ by Jan Hoger - according to the man, "It can't be 8C as it only took me one session."
Having seen Jan climb, I can confirm that he is an absolute monster, and its probably 8C.

Can't jam for toffee though.


But thats not climbing, so its all good.


Twats.....     

[Doylo]

Repeated and down-graded to 8B+ by Jan Hoger - according to the man, "It can't be 8C as it only took me one session."
Having seen Jan climb, I can confirm that he is an absolute monster, and its probably 8C.

Can't jam for toffee though.


But thats not climbing, so its all good.


Twats.....     

I thought that was Momentum? Has he done the wagon now too?

[robertostallioni]

yup

Jan, after taking a few burns to warm-up, quickly stuck the crux (not from the start) and went to the top after a few goes. After a bit of rest and a few more falls from the bottom, he completed the 2nd Ascent.

 

[Wood FT]

Repeated and down-graded to 8B+ by Jan Hoger - according to the man, "It can't be 8C as it only took me one session."
Having seen Jan climb, I can confirm that he is an absolute monster, and its probably 8C.

Can't jam for toffee though.


But thats not climbing, so its all good.


Twats.....     

I thought that was Momentum? Has he done the wagon now too?

I read it as him having done Momentum from that bjorn again report

[robertostallioni]

aaaahhh. re-read it. I agree, momentum repeat.

[Percy B]

Whoops - my mistake. It was Momentum he's done and down-graded. He's probably saving Off the Wagon for tomorrow.

[Doylo]

Easy-mistaka-to-maka. What a beast Hojer is

[Bonjoy]

Did Rhys get footage of this, or was that a different trip? It's a shame the crabstix swiss dvd never got released.

He got Shark Hunt flash on camera too didn't he! He should stick the raw footage on youtube, i presume the DVDs not coming out now...

He sold all the footage to Hot Aches.

[JMB]

Whoops - my mistake. It was Momentum he's done and down-graded. He's probably saving Off the Wagon for tomorrow.

Turns out this post was prophetic. He did it today and also gave it the 8B+ downgrade. It may turn out that he's simply too strong for his own good right now though.

[Doylo]

Whoops - my mistake. It was Momentum he's done and down-graded. He's probably saving Off the Wagon for tomorrow.

Turns out this post was prophetic. He did it today and also gave it the 8B+ downgrade. It may turn out that he's simply too strong for his own good right now though.

Bloody hell he makes Nalle look a bit on the weak side!!  I bet Nalle gives the next one 8b+ even if he think it's 8c (unless Jan has gone home by then)

[Percy B]

Christ - I'm even freaking myself out with my new-found fortune-telling skills. I should never doubted my gift. I'll stick my neck out and say that it'll probably rain tomorrow too.

[c.j.d.]

I think I've found the focus for my Feb trip!  Darcy looked like he had it on that trailer - thieving gypsy bastar.....  Oh, must remember that's not on.