[Kingy]

The Wagon project in Ticino has been climbed by Nalle that featured in Dosage 3. no news on the grade but it has to be 8b+ i reckon. I recall that some years ago James Pearson had figured out some new beta that didn't involve a crazy dyno but the area was banned before the final send

[a dense loner]

It was done with the dyno, the heel was found to be too hit n miss, apparently

[clgladiator]

Nalle better hurry up and get his video of his trip out. Its going to be amazing 

[Jim]

keenus did it with the heel but fell off after 'the move' iirc

[r-man]

But did Nalle do the sitstart...?

[Doylo]

Shame Darse didn't get it. People forget how shit hot at bouldering he was. He flashed four 8a+s!!

[cofe]

What Doylo said.

[Fiend]

Nallllllllle 

[Nibile]

Shame Darse didn't get it. People forget how shit hot at bouldering he was. He flashed four 8a+s!!

He's still quite good at it. When he and Caroline came over here, despite James asking for "7a's and 7b's" the day before, he crushed everything from 7b+ to 8a (two goes) falling on the last move on a hard 8a/+ (the roof) on the flash and not trying it again.

[Stubbs]

So did this area get unbanned then, or is this like some of their FA's in South Africa that were at banned crags...

[Wipey Why]

 

[SA Chris]

So did this area get unbanned then, or is this like some of their FA's in South Africa that were at banned crags...

A very good question. The wads seem to think they are above bans.

[Paul B]

So did this area get unbanned then, or is this like some of their FA's in South Africa that were at banned crags...

I was thinking the same.

[clgladiator]

banned or not its still an amazing looking project that has been climbed. Who got into climbing for a love of its politics anyway?

[slackline]

banned or not its still an amazing looking project that has been climbed. Who got into climbing for a love of its politics anyway?

I doubt very very few did, but the actions of a few can jepordise future access for everyone else regardless of how amazing the project/problem is. 

[clgladiator]

 

Ithe actions of a few can jepordise future access for everyone

unless everyone else ignores any access restrictions.... 

[slackline]

Don't be a dick.

[Stubbs]

When the access issues started in this area, a farmer threatened to spray the boulders with grease.  Respecting access arrangements isn't really politics, it's just common sense, and it's a shame such high profile climbers were seen to be ignoring arrangements in SA. 

Not sure if this article sheds any light, nit sure where exactly this climb is http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40144#

Here's the original topic http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7179.0.html

[Adam Lincoln]

8c 

http://blog.nallehukkataival.com/post/36283210728/off-the-wagon?ref=nf

[leeroy]

good footage of pearson heel method on here

[JMB]

From Nalle's blog:

Important note: Although other areas in this valley aren’t concerned, this particular boulder is access sensitive due to it’s proximity to some houses. Please be respectful when visiting this boulder and keep the noise down.

He also gave it a grade of 8C.

[SA Chris]

Who got into climbing for a love of its politics anyway?

What a daft statemet. No-one loves the politics (except sloper), but like it or not politics are a part of what we do in the modern climbing world. Visiting climbers on the jollys in SA climbing in areas under temporary restriction during acces negotiations risked imposition of permanent bans on these areas due to ignoring the restrictions. This is not the UK, there is no CRoW and no Rights of Way. It seems Nalle has ignored a ban respected by other climbers too.

[Doylo]

Yeee Sharma would of pissed it if it was 8b+ 

[cowboyhat]

Shame Darse didn't get it. People forget how shit hot at bouldering he was. He flashed four 8a+s!!

I can't believe its come in at 8c! James so nearly did it, I have in memory him fluffing the easy end bit a couple of times, (maybe its more like the not so easy end bit, BUT STILL 8C!)

[r-man]

Did Rhys get footage of this, or was that a different trip? It's a shame the crabstix swiss dvd never got released.