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[Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+] (Read 3329 times)

Scouse D

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[Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 14, 2012, 09:57:30 pm
A few weeks ago Andy Banks climbed a really good new problem at burbage south.
It's the left arete of the 'Life Assurance' block. Blunt techy arete climbing and fairly highball. A really quality addition to the burbage valley. Bring a few pads and spotters. Opinions on grade vary from 7b to 7b+.

leeroy

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#1 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 14, 2012, 10:05:44 pm
saw this, any names? it looked very good. jon had metioned it a few weeks prior, seems an obvious line now, keep missing them  :-\

a dense loner

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#2 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 14, 2012, 10:20:18 pm
 I know Iain n Kim ave done a lot of things at burb Sth that aren't in the guide. I'll ask if he knows of this, or he'll write their stuff up when he gets back from work in a wk or so, so Shud be quite a few additions to any circuit

Scouse D

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#3 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 14, 2012, 10:38:16 pm
It was brushed and sort-of patioed although some of the key holds as been missed so it may well have been done - just with a harder sequence. I wouldn't be surprised if Iain had been on it as I mentioned it as a project to him earlier this year and he sounded very keen to try it.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 02:28:32 pm

I'd brushed some holds you can reach off the deck and might have done some minor patioing (can't remember). Recorded on my 'master list' thus:
Quote
*** RHS of Lethargic Arete 7b-7b+? Needs rope clean and minor landing work 
Oh well, you snooze you lose. I'm pretty sure Iain/Kim/Jamie haven't been on it. Does it have a name?

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 02:49:50 pm
Do any of you guys own a camera? Its 2012, lets have a multimedia exposition please.

Moo

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#6 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 02:52:35 pm
Did anyone get film of the first ascent how are we to confirm that any of this is true? I would also like to see footage of bonjoy brushing this problem just so we can be sure that he did.

travs

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#7 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 03:03:20 pm
Is this the arete right of Mad Llechtim? If so then Percy and myself looked at it about 8 weeks ago with a view to returning but didn't quite get round to it!

Fiend

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#8 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 03:36:39 pm
Do any of you guys own a camera? Its 2012, lets have a multimedia exposition please.
Public multimedia expositions are so last-decade. 2k10+ it's all about transcending social media by having enough footage for a feature film but refusing to post any of it anywhere except to a small smug clan of in the know groupies  ::) ::) ::)


Edit: not referring to this problem of course, hell it hasn't even been named (probably preferable to letting El Mocho anywhere near it tho). Might well be referring to Dan V's beastly thing at Carrock though  :-\

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 03:38:26 pm
Is this the arete right of Mad Llechtim? If so then Percy and myself looked at it about 8 weeks ago with a view to returning but didn't quite get round to it!
Aye, that's the one. A much coveted prize it would seem!

dave

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#10 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 15, 2012, 06:44:30 pm
Good problem this, starting hold is a bit bendy/loose though and could do with glueing. Its doable using the hold just below though, just be a shame if it broke and left a mess. Fat bastards keep away.

Jim

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#11 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 16, 2012, 10:08:19 am
Cheers Dave!

Percy B

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#12 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 18, 2012, 08:18:31 pm
Aye - snooze and you loose. Or in my case, strain your hamstring and then find you are unable to heelhook your way to victory. Niggling injuries take a lot longer to heal when you're over 40..... :furious:

I did do a direct start into the route Press On on the next buttress left of Mad Lehctim - which looks totally piss easy so it might well have been over-looked - can't find any record of it being done before. To be honest, its so obvious I can't believe it hasn't been done before, other than the fact that it was filthy and it was actually a lot harder than it first appeared. Put another way, Travs didn't manage it, so its probably harder than 6c+  ;)  Either way, it'll be  good warm-up for Andy's problem (along with Mad Lehctim which feels pretty spicy for 6c+)

Bonjoy

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#13 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 19, 2012, 08:36:32 am
Is that the crimpy looking wall into a right to left ramp? Dang, beaten to another one.

travs

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#14 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 20, 2012, 08:17:28 am
Your memory does deceive you sir as I did indeed get up it, but not at 6c+!!!

Percy B

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#15 Re: [Peak][burbage south][7b/7b+]
November 20, 2012, 01:53:03 pm
Whoops! Sorry Neil - my memory is almost a shite as some of my grades....

 

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