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RIP Patrick Edlinger (Read 10790 times)

jwi

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RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 16, 2012, 09:36:59 pm
According to Le Dauphiné Libéré Patrick Edlinger is dead.  The cause of death is not known
 
http://www.ledauphine.com/france-monde/2012/11/16/escalade-patrick-edlinger-est-mort

andy popp

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#1 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 16, 2012, 09:39:32 pm
I posted in reply to 205Chris in the RIP thread but agree this deserves its own - a terrible and shocking loss.

jwi

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#2 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 16, 2012, 09:48:41 pm
Certainly.


Patrick Edlinger & Patrick Bérhault  :wavecry:

leeroy

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#3 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 16, 2012, 10:02:13 pm
gutting, another legend gone. rip.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 16, 2012, 11:12:00 pm
RIP. Hattrick Edgeclinger - une legende.

"Bloc"



http://www.rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfs/quotes.pdf

ianv

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#5 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 09:23:18 am
Really sad to hear this.  :'(

When I lived in Aix, I climbed a lot round Toulon and was always bumping in to him at the crag. He was a really nice guy, pretty quiet but friendly and fairly humble (unlike a lot of the Parisians).

The term legend tends to get overused these days but, I think Edlinger sort of deserves it for the impact he had on the development of sport climbing into what it is today.

The article doesn't really give much away about the cause of death but the quote "I am a free man, I have no regrets about my life" has an ominous tone about it.  I hope he died happy.

shark

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#6 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 10:25:06 am

RobinB

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#7 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 10:26:09 am
That's really sad news. I bumped into him a few times in Australia and the Peak.

He was always friendly and approachable and his contribution to climbing (especially sport climbing) was immense

mrjonathanr

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#8 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 10:47:22 am
Without being middle-aged and having some famiarity with French climbing it's hard to grasp Edlinger's importance in climbing's story.

He was a revolution, as was Berhault in a quieter way. I think his influence measures up alongside Jerry, Bachar, Yaniro, Gullich, Albert. I can't see how you can have free-climbing as it is now (we don't even call it that now, do we?) without the French re-inventing it in the early 80s, and it was Mr Ed who led the way. He was a purist in many ways. And a very bold one at tha,  as Stevie Haston says.

I met him once at Cimai.  He seemed shy actually, amazing considering he became the first media star of the sport with Life on the Fingertips. French climbers will be in a state of shock: he's as iconic as Jerry is here, to them.

« Last Edit: November 17, 2012, 10:58:16 am by mrjonathanr »

fatdoc

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#9 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 12:34:05 pm
Fully agree.

Only met him once, verdon 1985.

Soooo much style. Lead the way... I still have a copy of opera vertical.

Sounds like he new his demise was coming, poor bastard.

jwi

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#10 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 01:30:27 pm
“Tu sais, je suis seul à pouvoir trouver une solution, c'est le combat le plus dur que j'ai jamais mené, comme un solo impossible, mais je vais m'en sortir,” Edlinger told his biographer, Jean-Michel Asselin, about his struggle with alcoholism.

Jaspersharpe

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#11 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 01:35:35 pm
This is terribly sad. My French isn't good enough, how did he die?

jwi

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#12 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 01:57:32 pm
I should really refrain from translating from a language I did not even take in school to one I only learned in School. Anyway, I took it to say roughly:
“That said, I am barely able to find a solution, this is the hardest fight I've had, like an impossible solo, but I'll find a way out.”

mrjonathanr

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#13 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 02:34:26 pm
That said, I am barely able to find a solution,You know, I'm the only one who can find a solution, this is the hardest fight I've had, like an impossible solo, but I'll find a way out.”
Please excuse the liberty of correcting your sentence, it wasn't far off

Quote
Il fut le premier à ériger sa discipline en véritable art de vivre, ouvrant la voie à de nombreux adeptes pour qui l’escalade, le respect de la nature et le dépassement de soi sont devenus une philosophie
Valérie Fourneyron, sports minister   http://www.franceinfo.fr/autres-sports/carnet-patrick-edlinger-est-mort-804983-2012-11-17

''He was the first to raise this discipline to the level of an art to be lived, leading the way for many to follow for whom cllimbing, respect for nature and overcoming of oneself became a philosophy.''    She adds that he was an exceptional man, beloved of the French people, who will be sorely missed.

His body was discovered at his home in La Palud yesterday. The article states his biography is due out in May, and refers to his 95 accident in the Calanques after which he gave up top-level climbing.

HaeMeS

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#14 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 02:49:00 pm
From http://www.grimper.com/news-patrick-edlinger-mort:
'Patrick Edlinger, celui qui incarne à lui seul l’escalade libre en France, s’en est allé vendredi 16 novembre dans la soirée, lui qui devait fêter jeudi prochain les trente ans de « la vie au bout des doigts » lors des Rencontres du cinéma de montagne de Grenoble. La communauté des grimpeurs, qui souhaitait lui rendre un hommage appuyé, avait imaginé un scénario plus festif même si on le savait pas en grande forme. Ce drame,  qui s’est joué chez lui (les circonstances du décès ne sont pas encore établies), ne laisse hélas que peu d’incertitudes : celui qui a révélé l’escalade au grand public, qui s’est vu propulser au firmament de la notoriété et de la gloire, n’a pu franchir le dernier obstacle qui allait sacraliser sa carrière unique mais aussi le propulser trente ans en arrière. Si les grimpeurs sont définitivement orphelins, Patrick ayant rejoint Patrick, on a tous une pensée particulière pour sa famille et ses proches.'

Looks like he had might have had trouble with alcohol dependence or life/getting older in general - really sad to hear about his death. La vie and Verdon got me into climbing. Met him twice in Cimai when he came to pinch a fag. My climbing partners didn't know who he was and were complaining about the french guy asking for sigarets all day long.

Johnny Brown

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#15 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 02:51:44 pm
Gutted. I had a home-made VHS of that short film about him and used to watch it endlessly, "the rock, it is my house". A true legend.

biscuit

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#16 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 09:05:17 pm
Can you imagine Hugh Robertson ( current Sports Minister in the UK i believe ) mourning the passing of a well known 1980's UK climber ? I don't want to tempt fate by inserting anyone's name in there.

Just goes to show how influential he was and how he was appreciated for his art.

Those vids are great to watch. What a loss.

Muenchener

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#17 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 17, 2012, 09:27:33 pm
Nice appreciation article on Planet Mountain.

(Which I found via a link on 8a.nu - credit where credit's due)

jwi

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#18 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 18, 2012, 12:15:33 am
Yes, but very confused on the Tribout on Edlinger freak-out regarding the “Spécialistes”

ianv

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#19 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 18, 2012, 11:01:36 am
Yes, but very confused on the Tribout on Edlinger freak-out regarding the “Spécialistes”

I think it was a combination of North v South antipathy, jealousy of Edlinger's media profile, Edlinger working it before the first ascent without permission and the fact he knocked it off pretty quick and downgraded it.

neilpearsons

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#20 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 18, 2012, 05:34:03 pm
That's really sad news. I bumped into him a few times in Australia and the Peak.

He was always friendly and approachable and his contribution to climbing (especially sport climbing) was immense

Don't be shy Rob, tell the boys and girls your Edlinger quickdraw story...

slackline

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#21 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 19, 2012, 07:46:49 am
Multiple Patrick Edlinger videos linked from here.

fatdoc

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#22 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 19, 2012, 09:56:39 pm
Outcome being... Best rock u can climb... For big sort routes. Epic epitaph. Cheers. Mad memories.. I've done some of those routes.

 :'(

Tears on my iPad.


Peanuts

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#23 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 20, 2012, 10:26:45 am
Five days after Patricks death was announced and the 'the other channel' still hasn't even mentioned it, they truly are becoming an on-line version of Stumbler and Bumbler,  finger on the pulse ? I dont think so  :wank:

slackline

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#24 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 20, 2012, 10:48:13 am
Five days after Patricks death was announced and the 'the other channel' still hasn't even mentioned it, they truly are becoming an on-line version of Stumbler and Bumbler,  finger on the pulse ? I dont think so  :wank:

Does bashing another website really have any relevance whatsoever to this thread?

Its simple, if you don't like the site, don't use it.

If you do use it and don't like it there's no real need to post your thoughts on UKB as it only detracts from the purpose of the threads here.

leeroy

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#25 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 20, 2012, 02:09:12 pm
there were threads on the forums just like here. everyone loves a bit of ukc bashing when its relevant, but fs leave it where it belongs.

jwi

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#26 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 20, 2012, 02:14:55 pm
This is a lightly edited automatic translation of an obituary I wrote (mostly I just added a few technical words they didn't know). Shout if there are some (factual) errors.

Quote from: Google translate
Patrick Edlinger was found dead at his home in La Palud on 16 November. He was 52 years old.

“He was the first who raised his sport to an art of living, and paved the way for many adepts for whom climbing, respect for nature, and to overcome itself became a philosophy of life,” writes the French Sports Minister in a press release after Edlinger's death and adds that he was an exceptional man, known and loved by the French people.

Edlinger became known to a wider public through the films ‘La Vie au bout des doigts’ and ‘Opéra Vertical’ (both by J-P Janssen 1982).

No one who saw the films about Edlinger, which also appeared on SVT, was left unmoved and still more than twenty years later non-climbers sometimes strikes up a conversation about the blond man they had seen hanging on without a rope holding his life in his bare hands high above Provence's Verdon river, "... but he's dead now, I've heard," is the usual way to end this conversation. "No, Edlinger lives," we can no longer answer.

For the general public Edlinger was best known for his long and exposed free solos. Even those who never climbed rock can clearly see the elegance and control with which he performed those solos. Only after his daughter, now ten years old, was born did he gave up solo climbing completely.

But above all, Edlinger had significance as one of those who created modern climbing. Edlinger anticipated sport climbing as it is practiced today, not only by his physique, his dazzling technique, and through his strong focus on competition climbing, but also by his strict and simple ethics that came to define the 'approved' styles for a free ascent.

Edlinger has also had influence on the general increase in climbing ability on the continent as the author of perhaps the first training manual for rock climbing (“Grimper!: Pratique et plaisir de l'escalade”, 1985, with A Ferrand and J-F Lemoine).

During the eighties Edlinger also put up some of the hardest routes in France, and for that matter the world, including ‘Ça Glisse Au Pays des Merveilles’ (1983, France's second 8a) and a five-day period in 1988 he put up ‘Sucettes à l'anis’, 8b,  ‘Are you Ready’, 8b+ and repeated ‘Les Spécialistes’, 8b+. That same year he also won the  Arco Rock Master competition (together with Stefan Glowacs).

The following year Edlinger soloed ‘Orange Mécanique’, 8a, in Cimaï, repeated Ben Moon's masterpieces ‘La Plafond’/‘Maginot Line’, 8b+, and perhaps the world's then hardest route ‘Agincourt’, 8c, and he also confirmed his level as a competition climber by winning the major international climbing competition in Snowbird Utah, in superior style.

Climbing on the highest level has now moved away from the mostly vertical and high walls that dominate Verdon and we often associate with Edlinger, but remember that he was also the most active in the development of Ceuse, one of the truly central cliffs in today's sport climbing.

After an accident in the Calanques in 1995 Edlinger gave up climbing at the elite level, but even after that he has been a continued strong direct influence on the climbing scene e.g. as the editor of 'Rock'n Wall' (1997-2000).

In recent years, Edlinger run a gite near Verdon. Edlinger has also struggled with severe alcoholism, and Asselin, who is writing a biography of him, he said: “You know, I'm the only one who can find a solution, this is the hardest fight I've had, as an impossible solo, but I will find a way out.”

Markov-model based automated translation between languages in the same language family has become stunningly good, btw.

ianv

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#27 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 24, 2012, 10:18:19 am
Apparently (according to Bild.de) he died due to a fall down his stairs, sustaining a head injury. Ironic really, but really glad it wasn't the scenario I initially feared.

chummer

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#28 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 24, 2012, 11:09:49 am
Found this interview very poignant:


petejh

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#29 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
November 24, 2012, 04:47:53 pm
So many good words in that little film - I particularly loved the idea of the car which they'd 'stolen a bit', and discovering Ceuse then spending the next 4 years developing the crag.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#30 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
July 21, 2019, 02:21:02 pm
Reminding us that there is often great mystique in a route, beyond the number..

I got up early once. It was to do Polka des Ringards before the sun hit the sloper.

Warmed up, clips in and redpointed by 8.30 am. Don’t think it’ll catch on.

..but imagining you there will hopefully inspire.

Routes can be like our way of imagining what it's like to live a little in someone else's shoes.

I hadn't seen this beautiful R&I article posted elsewhere:

https://rockandice.com/snowball/lone-wolf-the-tragedy-of-patrick-edlinger/?cn-reloaded=1

Hope that's a working link.

andy popp

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#31 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
July 21, 2019, 03:59:31 pm
Thanks Dave, very good.

mrjonathanr

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#32 Re: RIP Patrick Edlinger
July 21, 2019, 04:14:04 pm
Great article, thanks for the link Dave. He was something special.