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Swiss Classics (Read 5121 times)

Banana finger

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Swiss Classics
October 31, 2012, 06:32:08 pm
Hi All,
          I  m off to switzerland soon. Can any kind folk recommend me some classic boulders around 7c,7c+ or 8a in the ticino area that aren't the following

-fake pamplemousse
-Ganymede takeover
-Cellar door
-No mystery
-Frogger
-Freak bros
-Reve de mario
-Franks wild years
-La Boule
-Conquistadores

Any suggestions are more than welcome
Cheers
Ben

Doylo

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#1 Re: Swiss Classics
October 31, 2012, 09:57:31 pm
Serre Moi Fort  Chironico
Le Piler/Doigt Verts Chiron
Saucope roof stuff Chiron
Marilyn Monroe Brione
Alphane Moon is good but someone told me that finishing jug has fallen off
Arete with pocket Chiron
Komilator softy 8a Chiron

Nibile

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#2 Re: Swiss Classics
October 31, 2012, 11:32:17 pm
Blocx addiction - Chironico
Molunk - Brione
Jungle something - Cresciano
Il partner - Cresciano and Stone Love tick

a dense loner

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#3 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 09:06:28 am
Jugs been sika'd back on

Doylo

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#4 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 10:52:50 am
Nice , is cool as...

tim palmer

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#5 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 11:52:09 am
I am headed out there at the end of the week too.
what are the quick drying problems/areas?
Or is there anything which will stay dry in the rain?

Doylo

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#6 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 01:00:51 pm
Yes Alphane Moon  ;D

c.j.d.

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#7 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 03:08:24 pm
Grotte de Soupir, 7c+. Cresiano.  Amazing.  1st 8 in the area but came down a few years back.  Mega roof.  Stays dry.

LA Nave Va - 7c?  Not done it - frustrating yet amazing arête.

Loads!





leeroy

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#8 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 07:37:19 pm
hannibal lectar is decent dry 7b+/c, as is grotte des soupirs. when i say dry i mean the meat of the prorblem stays dry but the juggy easy tops may be wet.

JJP

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#9 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 09:19:44 pm
 :agree:
Grotte de soupir at cresciano would get my vote as well. Good in wet conditions as most of the moves are sheltered and the problem looks amazing!

scooby doo

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#10 Re: Swiss Classics
November 01, 2012, 09:26:10 pm
Not sure if its a classic but Bach Bloc at the river in Brione is a great problem. 7cish.

Banana finger

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#11 Re: Swiss Classics
November 02, 2012, 08:31:30 pm
Cheers for all the suggestions chaps! Any more ideas? I hate to bite the hand that feeds me but aren't arete with pocket, grot de souspers (sp soz), sascoupe and the pillier a little bit poor? Again, fair enough, we all have differing tastes etc :)

Richie Crouch

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#12 Re: Swiss Classics
November 02, 2012, 08:51:59 pm
Jungle book, cresc
bridge over troubled water at chir
Le vent nous portera, chir
Willenberg dach, chir
Midnight lightning of Ticino, chir
Confessions of a crap artist, chir

Just some I haven't already seen others mention already!

Doylo

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#13 Re: Swiss Classics
November 02, 2012, 09:58:03 pm
Is Limited Edition banned now? One of the best

Doylo

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#14 Re: Swiss Classics
November 02, 2012, 10:01:57 pm
Cheers for all the suggestions chaps! Any more ideas? I hate to bite the hand that feeds me but aren't arete with pocket, grot de souspers (sp soz), sascoupe and the pillier a little bit poor? Again, fair enough, we all have differing tastes etc :)

I tend to think of everything as being good over there.

Is Limited Edition banned?
One of the best.....

Banana finger

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#15 Re: Swiss Classics
November 03, 2012, 08:00:05 am
Yeah limited is banned as far as i know. Went there once and tried to bribe the owner with a big box of chocolates. If i knew more german I would have offered myself for the eve. She still said no. Heartless or what.
Its such a shame it looks truly world class.

leeroy

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#16 Re: Swiss Classics
November 03, 2012, 01:53:02 pm
according to 8a someone did limited a few days ago, if it is banned its ignored obviously (not condoning this..)

a dense loner

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#17 Re: Swiss Classics
November 03, 2012, 04:07:36 pm
It's banned but fine if u can prove uve got an 8a account

tim palmer

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#18 Re: Swiss Classics
November 19, 2012, 10:52:39 am
as a post script to this discussion i just thought I would add Kirk Windstein to the list, I thought was amongst the best at cresciano.

Doylo

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#19 Re: Swiss Classics
November 19, 2012, 11:00:58 am
How was your trip Tim?

tim palmer

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#20 Re: Swiss Classics
November 19, 2012, 11:14:33 am
really good, so lucky with the weather, only lost three days to rain just when we needed a rest anyway.  Michele caminati was kind enough to give us the tour and encourage us up some problems.  James Blay got the points for the trip by doing his first two 8as on the last day, was a great effort.

Banana finger

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#21 Re: Swiss Classics
November 21, 2012, 12:25:14 pm
as a post script to this discussion i just thought I would add Kirk Windstein to the list, I thought was amongst the best at cresciano.

Ah good thinking Dr Palmer.

Kirk TrouserStain truly is a classic line.....I may have to grow a pair...

tim palmer

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#22 Re: Swiss Classics
November 22, 2012, 02:53:20 pm
as a post script to this discussion i just thought I would add Kirk Windstein to the list, I thought was amongst the best at cresciano.

Ah good thinking Dr Palmer.

Kirk TrouserStain truly is a classic line.....I may have to grow a pair...

It looks a bit scary but isn't too bad at all, the body position for the crux cross over is a bit commiting but you just land on a flat rock which is easily padded out.  I think you just need a good spot to make sure you don't land in the hole behind the flat rock.   The top is easy so don't worry about that.

 

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