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Dangerous Brothers beta (Read 2898 times)

dpb

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Dangerous Brothers beta
October 23, 2012, 08:21:24 pm
I had a go at this today but failed miserably.

My sequence went RH on the flake, LH up to good slot/pocket, RF on good hold and rock up to get left hand of 2 undercuts (the better) with RH, high feet and underut to get high tiny crimp with LH, RF in pocket below RH, try to pull eyeing up good RH edge a way off and fall onto the rope.

Am I setting about this right?  There were some side pulls further right, Should I be using these in some way?

All help appreciated.

Cheers

Dave

Dolly

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#1 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 23, 2012, 09:29:26 pm
Using the side pulls is the "other" way.
Instead of pulling up on the left hand crimp try doing it a bit more dynamically to get the edge. I don't mean a dyno, sort of an 80% dead point if you see what I mean ?

dpb

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#2 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 23, 2012, 09:53:48 pm
Thanks, shall give it a go. Are you using any intermediates for your rh our going straight from undercut to the good edge?

abarro81

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#3 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 23, 2012, 10:20:28 pm
Was it dry out there despite the fog of doom then?

Dolly

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#4 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 23, 2012, 11:17:32 pm
Thanks, shall give it a go. Are you using any intermediates for your rh our going straight from undercut to the good edge?
Sorry cant remember.

nai

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#5 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 24, 2012, 07:42:57 am
Was it dry out there despite the fog of doom then?

Kudos Wall was good on Monday morning even though the Tor didn't feel quite right.

Always check the webcam before travelling:

http://www.peakdistrictinformation.com/webcam/images.php

EDIT: webcam appear to be broken at the moment, showing an image from Monday  :shrug:

dpb

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#6 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 24, 2012, 08:07:36 am
Was it dry out there despite the fog of doom then?

Rubicon area was wet, kudos a bit damp, dangerous brothers fine a were routes in the salar area. Didn't look up at caviar though

J_duds

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#7 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 24, 2012, 07:24:09 pm
I did it dynamically off the LH crimp, RH was on something good lower down, RF was on one of the obvious bits below and the key bit for me was moving my LF onto a dirty smear out left which allowed me to push across. 
I also couldnt work out how to get across to the right side flakes - looked like a big span for me.
Good luck - its a nice bouldery route.

dpb

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#8 Re: Dangerous Brothers beta
October 25, 2012, 09:43:02 am
Cheers

I wasn't doing anything with my left for so I'llhave a go at finding something for it

 

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