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Leopold- Steall hut crag (Read 2052 times)

Weesh90

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Leopold- Steall hut crag
October 22, 2012, 03:41:05 pm
Was on Leopold at the weekend there to check it out, and I was wondering if anyone had any beta to share particularly what to do after the crux, so right hand finger lock and left hand in a jam. What do you do after that?

Also I notice a lot of talk about this kneebar rest, which I got with my left knee in the niche at the bottom of the crack although I notice in a few photos people have knee pads on the right leg? Presumably using the right leg makes it much better?

Anyway if anyone has some info that would be great.

Cheers.

Fultonius

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#1 Re: Leopold- Steall hut crag
October 22, 2012, 03:50:19 pm
Might want to try Scottishclimbs? I know it's pretty dead over there these days, but you might catch someone. Either that or email Dave. I think Blair might have been trying it recently? Could ask him.

I didn't get on it when we were there. Did Trick of the Tail which was fun and had a few unsuccessful prods at The Fat Groove which, being hard AND not my style was desperate!

Would like to have a go at Leopold at some point but I doubt I'll be up that way for a while.

Weesh90

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#2 Re: Leopold- Steall hut crag
October 22, 2012, 04:21:59 pm
Might do that actually.

Yeah I jumped on Trick of the tail first, was a really cool route, unfortunately the crux holds were sopping wet and I couldn't figure out another way of doing it without them. 

Fat groove looked really good as well, seemed pretty intensive on the old footwork! You should definitely get on Leopold at some point, brilliant moves in an amazing location!

topcat

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#3 Re: Leopold- Steall hut crag
October 22, 2012, 06:44:28 pm
Yup, right leg for the knee-bar. Flag your left leg under. I had a knee support and jeans - could have eaten my lunch hanging there. Do the Karate chop move at the crux then left hand jam pinkie up, clip, right hand lay-away off rounded bobbly right hand side of the crack, left hand on the biscuit, reach right to sidepull, come into another sidepull in front of you with your left, reach right into juggy undercut. That's what I remember, though it's been a few years since I was on it. When I was going right I was using a small sloping ramp facing towards me for my feet. Slipped off it a couple of times. That section felt weird because of the feet.

Weesh90

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#4 Re: Leopold- Steall hut crag
October 22, 2012, 10:51:50 pm
Thanks very much, that's exactly what I was after.


 

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