[Omega]

The Ape Index peak bouldering list includes this problem:

Brian's Private Arete V9
Below the crag are a number of good blocks. One of has 'Private' written on one of its faces. The problem takes the right arete of this face climbed on its left side.


I hunted this thing out in the summer.  Quite nice but not v9 from a standing start.  Perhaps from a sitter?

So I'm wondering...what else is down there?  Has anyone got the beta on more problems (hard or otherwise) below the edge?

[grimer]

Is that that sharp areete? It was overgrown on its RHS, but that looked like it would give a good problem too. And there is a block about 20m towards the car park from there, an off-vertical wall with an arch that looked like it would have about 3 problems on it. And check the Chatsworth guide for the last 2 routes, John Allen E2s. These are on the Hueco Wall, 70m past the end of the main area of routes, a lovely overhanging wall. As well as the 2 routes is a tricky trav, and the left arete is a good 5b.

But as to any info on these, I'd say the Bish is your man.

[Omega]

yeah - i thought bish might be the man on this. but where is he?  

rumour has it that the hueco wall stays dry when all seems lost.  at least i think i read that on this here forum not 2 weeks ago.

the 'private' arete is on a bloc about the same size as bullworker at stanage.  the 'private' sign is fading from view.  when i was there in the summer the right arete was clean and ready to be climbed.

climbing up using both aretes gives up a nice moderate problem and the right arete from standing is good (and amenable) once you figure out which bits are best to hold.  the sit start seemed a bit harder especially when the friction wasn't that flash - slippery hands for the final lunge!

[Johnny Brown]

Best thing down there is that big sharp arete - I think different to the private one- well its tiwce the height of bullworker. Good on both sides, and entertaining low start too. Hueco wall is good too, in all a good circuit to be had, especially in crap weather.

[Percy B]

The Private arete is the RH arete of the block on the left hand side from a sitter - pull on and lay one on for the top. Its a jump so bigguns will find it easier that littleuns - adjust the grade accordingly or don't bother with the numbers and just do the problem!

The block with the very nice arch feature has a nice V5 up the middle from sitting. Climb up the arch. Hope its not getting too dirty as it took ages to clean. A good problem that deserves a lot more attention. You can do the arete right of this from a sitter at about V3/4 too - got a lovely set of foot jams on it!

The big arete is a cracker - not too hard after the first move, but can be worrysome to those lacking confidence when more than 6 foot of the deck! I try and send visiting foreigners up this one to 'warm them up'!

Hueco wall has some very nice traverses on it, aswell as a route if you're feeling brave, and some other bits and bobs to amuse yourself with if the weather is crap.

There is also a scrappy little problem directly under the Fern Hill groove. Start from sitting at the right hand side of the little cave and go straight up the wall to the break at around V7/8ish. Not brilliant but quite hard. The main event is the arete to the left which has to be one of the better unclimbed boulder problems in the Peak, albeit a bit high with a poor landing. A few mats and a BIG spotter will see you right! It is a lot harder than it looks though, climbed on the right hand side. This was cleaned up last winter and is begging to be done by some talented strong person, with little regard for life and limb! Any takers?

[al]

the john allen arete is really fine - only way i could get off the ground was a double knee smear on the lip !! - whole circuit feels a little bit 'redneck' tho and once we found the magpie traps figured it was time to try the carrot cake at elton cafe.....anyone done anything on the big roof down from the arete a bit, by an old yew tree?