[a dense loner]

prob one for nigel or greg?
do any of u guys have the knowledge on this prob? looked at it on a rest day last year, thought it looked a bit hard for 6b, my guidebook readin skills were a bit ropey    however it uses the most amazin hold so want to have a further look shortly

[Nigel]

Greg may be more of a one for detailed beta as I think he's actually tried it, although I've felt it up on a few rest days myself and also watched the Pasquill on it, so could be handy!

I'm guessing you're after the stand up (as usual the sitter is one of those "Gaskins V12's"!). The score is to take the obvious better undercut with a left hand crimp, right hand on something obvious but poor which I've forgotten out right. Now, obvious good right foot, then key beta is left foot on a very small "mono" hold. Pull in, then lash right hand up to the obvious slopey crimp thing. Hard to hold, tricky body tension. Gaskins' beta was to go through with the left hand to the break, although the Pasquill was going again with his right. Both methods keep feet where they are. Going again looks easier to me (for mortals), but then, what do I know!

Amazing problem, plus you get to look at Walk Away. You lucky man! Send us an e-mail if you're coming up Lancs, we're always up for showing people round...

[a dense loner]

cheers nigel, will give u shout when comin up. would be up for a tour of fairy steps. my ability at reading probs is truly amazin  :roll: will try n get up in next couple of weeks, after nursing split tip back to health.

[Nigel]

Right you are mate. Drop us an e-mither to neilkershaw@hotmail.com if and when, if I can't get out I'll draw some diagrams for ya!  

[a dense loner]

may have got wrong prob nigel   just looked at lakesbloc list n problem i admired was on lower level. too hot to walk up above. may be aeon or aeons. looked hard anyway. had an amazin lookin hold for left(?), like very poor bear claw hold. no matter will find out shortly

[Nigel]

Aha! Now you're talking, I've actually done that one!

No need to check, it is Aeon (Aeons is the L-R-L return version, without a rest  :? ), I can tell by the "bear claw" hold you describe. Despite what it says in the guide, it is easier R-L and not the other way around, maybe V11 L-R, V10 R-L (not V12!!!) although probably both easier who knows? Regardless, the beta (L-R);

-Start on two small +ve crimps beneath V4 crack.

-Big brilliant throw move to get slopey jug in R hand, any feet will do (all big). Sort feet out such that you can *jump* your L hand on to the slopey jug. Don't try a gay match, it takes ages, just jump-swap.

-R hand down to lovely 2-finger knobble, bone down!

-Now I spread my legs into a wide egyptian using an obvious foot flake out right (although Gaskins only found it necessary to paste his feet straight beneath him???!!!) and drop my L hand from the jug onto the gorgeous bear claw pinch. This is the crux although when you do the move it feels easy, the disadvantage being that you very rarely do do it!

-Then just "invert" the egyptian and lash your right hand out right to an OK hold (little but helpful intermediate if you need), then sort feet and cross L hand to jugs and victory!  

To do it the other way just exactly reverse this beta. Then claim V10, not V12, or the grade police will be after you! Similarly you can't have V13 for Aeons, just my opinion though.

A marvellous little problem, good luck.

[a dense loner]

cheers nigel, will give u bell when comin up anyway

[cofe]

cheers nigel, will give u bell when comin up anyway

[jedi mind trick>/] go up there a week on saturday dense, go up there a week on saturday dense[jedi mind trick>/]

oooh spooky

[a dense loner]

nigel, i somehow find myself compelled to come up a week on saturday  :? something strange is goin on here

[Nigel]

Wee Erd...

I'll try and be here, in the meantime I'll get Greg to brush the problems  :D

[dave]

its all a trick - cofe just wants to go to wimberry and have the place to himself.

[cofe]

you mean it's ever busy? damn, rumbled.

[a dense loner]

why don't u boys come over this weekend, good sport for all. closer than wales  

[cofe]

why don't u boys come over this weekend, good sport for all. closer than wales  

you talkin a me punk?

why i oughta......

p.s. what say you craig david?

[dave]

word

[Greg C]

Got a funny story about this problem...
Myself and Neil seperately met this guy trying Axiom last year on consecutive Saturdays. Both of us were confronted by a mini tribe of ass kissers who followed this guy about, all of which launched a barage of climbing anecdotes at us - one of which was how this guy had done all the problems upto 7c+ at burbage - which basically insinuated this guy was the supreme being of climbing.

On my meeting with this guy he was trying Axiom about half an hour after I'd been trying it. He was trying it the same way I was (ie. reaching really high to start) but when I informed him this is not how Gaskins would of done it (as anyone who knows the Gaskins knows he always starts as low as is humanly possible) and it was about 7c this method, he told me - bold as brass - that "HE" had done a number of 8a+'s and it was 8a or 8a+! I have never come across anyone so far up their own arse! As you can imagine I made my excuses and retired from the crag in fits of giggles.  

PS. I do know who this guy is but I won't stick his name up in the spirit of good will, and all that.  :wink:

[Bubba]

Both of us were confronted by a mini tribe of ass kissers

:D

[dave]

ah go on, you know you want to!

[cofe]

Greg - i think this calls for a mass PM?

man that's funny.

alternatively when we roll up next weekend kissing craig david's ass (bearing in mind he's done everything at bell hagg up to B5) you'd better watch out. beardown productions is about... (video killed the radio star)

mange tout

[dave]

He's not "all the stand ups in Burbage Valley" is he?

g

thats what i was thinking - if so i know exactly who he is.

also known as Mr Miserableasfuckatthecragyoudthinkhedbeensentencedtoclimb.

[Adam Lincoln]

He's not "all the stand ups in Burbage Valley" is he?

g

thats what i was thinking - if so i know exactly who he is.

also known as Mr Miserableasfuckatthecragyoudthinkhedbeensentencedtoclimb.

Is that the tall guy that goes around with a ropebag as a bouldering mat?

[Greg C]

All I'm saying is, it is the guy who did all the stand ups at Burbage  :shock: Wom amazing! That was the "ass kissers" anecdote for  Neils encounter  

PS. He is not to cheerful either  :wink:

[a dense loner]

a tall guy who does hard grit probs goes to lime n finds it hard  :shock:

[clm]

let me know  if you go dense, might join you for a finger workout.  the rehabilitation has begun.
ps - i hope youre lee.

[Nigel]

"He's done all the stand-ups in the Burbage valley"  :shock:

So would I have if I was a ten foot tall Neaderthal miserable bastard. Nuff said...

[a dense loner]

wil give u shout clm, stop worryin