[Kingy]

Haha, gotta get the terminology right! The split tip was from working the route in the sun in the first couple of days and not taking enough days off for the skin to repair, some of these crimps have to be seen to be believed! No mistakes next time round. Yeah, its not everyone's cup of tea, a world away from Kalymnos but if you like edge pulling, there is no better place. I didn't meet anyone called Courtney, I'm sure he's probably known by the Bend locals tho, I'll ask next time i'm out there

[Sasquatch]

I'm psyched to read a bit more about To Bolt.  It's on my life list and I am just starting the multiyear(probably) process of trying to get in shape for it.  I've never done anything close to 8b+, and certainly nothing near that style as I've been mainly bouldering for the better part of a decade......  I'd love to get more beta/suggestions if you're willing to share. 

[Kingy]

Great to hear this is of interest to you. I would definitely say it helps to be fit for this route as you need a fair amount of stamina for the neverending crimps and sidepulls. There are 4 videos of the route on the net (2 with complete footage up to bolt 10). The ones of Drew Ruana and Mike Williams are really useful - here are the links below. The ones of Scott Franklin and Paige Classen (easily googleable) are also good but heavily cut, which can be a bit annoying when trying to see how they did certain moves.





The moves are surprisingly powerful given that it is 'only' vertical or 1 degree overhanging. They are very complex and the move time you spend on the route the more you learn them and they start to become automatic. You need to be strong though as the move by the 9th bolt is very hard, definitely not one for the stamina plodder, its solid V6 at the very least!! I have a full beta sheet of all the moves I could copy for you if you need? Just PM me. Good luck with it

[JacobJacob]

This is awesome Ted! Good to see someone going out to do the style of climbing they like rather than what they're told they should like. Vert rigs are where it's AT! 

I'd love to have a go at this sometime, when I do I'll come to you for the beta!

Good luck next time.

[JacobJacob]

Also: I noticed Drew bridged out onto the right wall at one point, is that considered kosher? Obviously being 13 gives you a bit of leaway 

[Sasquatch]

That's Awesome! Thanks.

Time to start getting fit then as I've years of power built up, but get pumped after 15-20 feet

I'm planning a first trip down for it next fall.  I'd love to go in the spring, but just don't think it'll happen.

[Kingy]

Yes, back to the 80's old skool style on this one, mullets and lycra all round!

Re Drew Ruana, having done those moves between the 8th and 9th bolts, the standard beta is a massive (but relatively easy) rockover way out left to a distant crimp which he for sure could not have reached. If you look closely in the vid, just before he bridges out onto the sidewall, he grabs some rat crimps that had probably never been pulled on before in order to do the move another way. This naturally led him up and right and close enough to the corner to make bridging a possibility. He appears to only be bridging there because he was led there by the moves rather than actively seeking it for a rest. Without any rules, once a sidewall is so close, why not use it? He only stays there for max 2 seconds and then goes back left to the 9th bolt shakeout rail.

Even his dad says he didn't climb the real line, rather harshly, and there are some people out there with a hard line on this.  Others say why not as he didn't rest there much? Should this, or indeed any sport route, be an eliminate? he is obviously capable, if he grew a few inches, of easily crushing it without going near the sidewall (it is only near the 9th bolt where you have any remote option of bridging out and even then you would, without following Drew's new beta, have to go off route to do this). Apparently Drew was only meant to be working the route that go and ended up sending it so the whole thing was rather unexpected for him.

[SA Chris]

Can't be that hard if girls and kids can do it (massive big ).

My style of climbing but I know I'll never do it in a million years. Great effort and shame you got skunked by condition

[Kingy]

Cheers Chris, gonna head back in the Spring for round 2, how hard can it be!!

[comPiler]

Unfinished Business and Training
9 February 2014, 9:37 am

With the crappy weather that we are having, now seems to be a good time to take stock of unfinished business from last year and future projects for the coming limestone season. When you are pushing your limits redpointing, it seems inevitable that you will collect a number 'works in progress' as you go along, otherwise you wouldn't be trying hard enough, right? The question is, where do you draw the line given the available resources you have in the form of time, motivation, strength and dry rock? Some people seem able to have projects hanging over them for years and years. I remember Paul Reeve showing me the moves on Full Tilt 8b back in 2006 and looking very strong on it. It wasn't until a few years later that his well-deserved tick came= due to the propensity of the crag to resemble a waterfall most of the year.  

Using this as inspiration I have tried to not be too bothered by unfinished routes, as long as the list doesn't get too long! I managed to knock a couple of long term projects off my list last year namely Full Tilt and another 8b at Malham, Idefix, so was chuffed with that. I think managing to get a few percent stronger and fitter made all the difference and also Full Tilt drying out sufficiently was obviously crucial (potential aspirants to this and the extension, True North, would readily agree with this!) So, it is possible to dig deep and get shot of those so called 'bogey routes' with sufficient application.  

My unfinished list at the moment is about as long as I would want it to get so I had better pull my finger out in the spring! I haven't included routes where I have only been up them once or twice for the purposes of assessing the moves with a view to maybe seriously attempting them (Cry Freedom and True North would fall into this category). That is not to say these routes won't go into the 'ticked' or 'unfinished' categories at some point in the future!

Unfinished Routes

Kabaah 8c+ (Raven Tor)

To Bolt or not to Be 8b+

Mama Docus 8a+ (Smith Rock)

Migranya 8b (Suirana)

The Inch Test 8a+ (Rubicon, the Upper Circle)

Barracuda 8b (Rubicon)

Gonads 8a+ (Two Tier Buttress)

Freedom Fighter 8a+ (Chimes extension)

Unfinished Boulder problems

Drink Driving V12 (Pill Box)

Hatch Life High V11

Hatchatrocity V11 (Parisella's Cave)

The Joker V11 (Stanage)

Domes Sit Start V9 (Rowtor)

Tarantula V9 (Nuda's Tartan)

Right now, I'm training in the Cave on saturdays to keep up the power endurance and doing lots of routes at the wall, with one bouldering session per week and a separate pullup/fingerboarding session. Its hard to train to be fit and strong at the same time but hopefully it will pay off. The danger is that you feel overtrained all the time and not at full strength when trying projects at the weekend (eg. in the cave). This has certainly been the case the last few weekends in the Cave but I'm hoping that it will be worth it and adaptation to a higher training load will happen. The theory being that when you do eventually take 2 or 3 days rest, you'll be ripping heads off! I'm suffering a bit with some bad skin splits in my finger joints which don't seem to go away for weeks and which have made it difficult to climb to full potential outside at times. These should be got rid of soon with any luck. I also seemed to have quite a sore right bicep coming back from Suirana a month ago but this now seems to have settled down, fingers crossed. This is the first year I have purposely decided to go indoors on sundays to do routes instead of taking my chances at Minus Ten in the drizzle or some other damp hole. Perhaps less character building but maybe of more training benefit, who knows!

I leave you with a link from the Pill Box which I first did in 2009 but repeated the other day, no better venue for fingery power endurance in January.





Source: Ted's Blog

[comPiler]

To Bolt or not to Be
27 April 2014, 11:19 pm

Hi folks, well I've been back from Smith for nearly a month and the trip has just about sunk in. It was an amazing experience being out there again and must better temperatures for climbing than when I was last out there in October. I was a bit smarter with my fingertips climbing only every other day, given the unique problems for skin that To Bolt or Not Be, the USA's first 5.14a first climbed in 1986 by Jean Baptiste Tribout, poses. I think it was the first time ever I have taken a rest day on my second day of a climbing trip, unheard of! I had written all of the moves down since the last trip (and obsessed over them in every waking moment!) so remembering them would hopefully not be a problem. All my training was done, I don't think I had skipped a saturday in Parisella's Cave since New Year often in the grimmest of weather and the routes at Stockport Wall had taken a pounding in long training sessions with my climbing partner Ant.

So this 2 week trip was time to execute something which I already knew very well; it came down to a brutal 100 move fitness equation. I was a bit worried that my only recent time on real rock had been doing multiple attempts on Hatch Life High in the Cave and most of my climbing had been done on plastic. However, luckily the feeling of some of my friends saying 'you get nowhere training on routes indoors' proved to be illfounded. A pump is a pump, no matter where you're training!

Crag scene - Greg, Tara and Andrew

Anyway, a bit of background about the route and my involvement with it. When I was a kid, one of my first books about rock climbing by John Long called 'How to Rock Climb' had a picture of Ron Kauk (who got the 2nd American ascent in 1988 after Scott Franklin's first) crimping up this incredible vertical wall of volcanic tuff on what appeared to be nothing holds. I was amazed how he could cling onto that face and how long and sustained it looked. I was only climbing VS at the time so the thought of actually climbing this route never crossed my mind. Nevertheless, the seed was planted and as I started sportclimbing and got through some of the grades, I started to wonder if I might someday have a go myself. Visiting Smith in 2007 for the first time, I got to see the climb and was suitably impressed, it looked just as blank as it did in my book. Seeing awesome pictures of Jerry Moffat on the 3rd ascent in 1988 and hearing tales of Steve McClure's near onsight in 2000 only stoked my desire to get involved. Doing Mecca at Raven Tor, a route with the same grade of 5.14a/ 8b+ in 2009 gave me the confidence to believe I could perhaps do it and actually was the reason I flew out there at short notice that year in December, only to find it was far too cold to attempt! (A productive trip to Bishop ensued instead).



 Some different views of the Beast!

I guess the route had always been in the back of my mind so I could come 'full circle' and be like Ron Kauk in that picture in my old climbing book. Funny where inspiration comes from, but best not to fight it, go with the flow! Its a fair point that Smith is 1000's of miles away from the UK and there are many other worthy routes in the UK and Spain/ France of a similar grade but really it is only a 10 hour flight and with routes this classic, I didn't really care about the logistics so much, just getting to try the thing was the main deal for me. My preferred climbing style is faces so where better place to indulge this than Smith!

Since last October, I have been lucky enough to have met some amazing people in Bend without whom I could never have dreamt of fulfilling my goal being a Brit travelling out here without a climbing partner - Andi and Justin, Andrew Hunzicker (who will get his To Bolt send real soon I'm sure), Nathan, Sierra, Peder and Jess, Ian and Kristin and many of the other locals too numerous to mention but you know who you are! Your support is greatly appreciated! When I come back next year, I hope to enlist some fellow Brits, if I can tempt any away from UK lime...

So, how did the route go? On my first day, I knew this would be a strong indicator of how the my chances were. The first time up, all the moves felt desparate! but thankfully I was not properly warmed up and on the next go, I toproped up to the 4th clip without getting pumped and I knew in my mind that it was on. The route itself is characterised by very sustained climbing on moves which are never easy but typically in the V3 - V6 range individually. Here are pics of some of the lower moves. They say the route contains in one route the crux moves of all of the other routes in the Dihderals, which seems fair. A 5.13 crux every other bolt for 14 bolts would be another way of describing it. Having the necessary fitness level is key to success as without it you have no chance of linking it all together so in a way the battle is won or lost before you even arrive, a motivating thought if ever there was one!

                                                                                                        First hard moves by the 3rd

                                  The 4th bolt stretch right                                                   Tiny crimps at the 5th

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Gaston at the 7th

On my second day of attempts, I managed to get through to above the 8th bolt and nearly to the first good shakeout at the 9th bolt which was a massive breakthrough as I had not got past the 6th bolt from the ground on my last trip. I knew I was feeling fitter than last time. On the 3rd day, I got to the 9th bolt shake for the first time and shook out well. I attacked the redpoint crux on two opposing razorblade sidepulls (see pic below), which is definitely the hardest move on the route, albeit straight after a reasonable shake.



The crux after the 9th bolt

I couldn't believe I got through this compression move to the next thumb sprag but my foot then greased out of the polished dish I had been using for a foothold on my linkage attempts. I was gutted as both my belayer Andrew and I thought that this was it, the send go! We were buzzing and gutted at the same time when I lowered off. On my next attempts on my 4th day on the route this trip, I should have done it and as I had had 2 full rest days (including one doing the classic 3 pitch 'Zebra Zion 5.10' with Justin). Unfortunately, conditions were pretty warm, even at 7pm when I set off on my second go of the day. Getting to the 10th bolt shakeout for the first time from the ground was a huge moment and I was clinging on there barely able to control the tantalizing thought that only 5 bolts of easier 5.12d/7c climbing separated me from achieving my dream route.

Scott Franklin had said that anybody who makes it to the 10th shouldn't fall there as you can shake anywhere, all I can say is that it depends how fit you are! I couldn't believe it when I dropped it at the 12th bolt at the final tricky rockover move before easier 5.11 climbing through the final 2 bolts. I was just so flamed but discovered that I was outstaying my welcome at the shakes and getting even more pumped in the process. On my 5th day this trip, halving my rest times to just over a minute at the 9th and 10th shakes made a huge difference (I am not one of those climbers who spend 20 minutes camping out at the 10th bolt!), as did refining some microbeta on that final rockover at the 12th. The send came on a much colder, crisper day and even though I had only had 1 day off after the previous massive day getting high on 2 separate occasions, I had now reached the level needed to do the route and it thankfully all clicked into place. Even the final moves were spooky and hard and there are climbers who have fallen even higher than me so beware of relaxing until its all over. Clipping the chain was an amazing feeling and a big relief as I only had 3 days left of the trip and the time pressure to send had been starting to mount. It was awesome too that earlier that day, Andi sent her long term project, Disposable Heroes 5.13b, in Aggro Gully as a surprise send, way to go. Time for a beer and burger in Redmond!





I will leave you with the video of the route I made, I hope it helps any aspirant To Bolters out there! Thanks for all the encouragement from everybody. Good luck and onto the next chapter!





Source: Ted's Blog

[tomtom]

Nice post and well done!

[Fiend]

Nice one Ted. That's some strong inspiration there.

[davej]

great blog welldone

[flyguy]

a motivating read and inspiring climber

[cheque]

Inspiring stuff Ted. 

[petejh]

Great read, and nice to see the psych for a line!

[comPiler]

Bat Route and Overjustified
30 June 2014, 9:32 pm

For the past 3 months since coming back from Smith Rock, a large number of my climbing days at the weekends have been spent up at Malham getting stuck into 2 routes in particular, Bat Route and Unjustified. Having ticked Bat Route in May and Unjustfied on Sunday, I thought I would share my experiences of both for those who are interested.

After finally ticking Idefix 8b last summer (the extension to Free and Even Easier and one of the catwalk's more desparate lines), I was finally free to try one of the famous routes breaching the bulges over the catwalk. It seems like some of the mystique surrounding these routes may have been dispelled in the last 5 years with the increase in the number of ascents made. I remember 2 or 3 years ago, an ascent of either Bat Route or Unjustified was front page news but now this is no longer the case. I am sure this is due to overall standards rising in the climbing community which is a great thing. With each successive ascent, more climbers become inspired to try them, which in turn leads to even more ticks. Just getting on and trying these things can be half the battle at times; if you don't have a go you'll never know!

So, off the back of my States trip I was keen to use the fitness that I had gained from trying To Bolt or not to Be and to see how Bat Route and Unjustified compared. They are of a similar length and style, and although not as sustained, they are a bit steeper with distinct cruxes. I was in two minds as to whether to try Cry Freedom as I had had 2 days on that in 2011 but heading out with Keefe Murphy who was trying Bat Route and with Cry Freedom being wet, I was persuaded to try the former. Cry Freedom is still a goal of mine, maybe when the midgies have finished taking chunks out of us...!

Bat Route is a magnificent 35m route with a unique combination of power moves, good rests and contrasting climbing styles involving wall climbing, steep roofs and powerful undercutting through bulges. The grade maths is a 7b (Seventh Aardvark) to probably a V8 or so to a big hole where you can get a hands off kneebar rest and then a sustained 8a+ to the top with 2 more good rests. The top crux on the final, gently overhanging wall is hard on some tiny crimps but I managed to find a really  good way past this bit involving a wide bridge, which took the sting out  of it.

                                                       Egyptian to get the 3rd undercut                                                                                       Eyeing up the 4th undercut

Taking the 4th undercut

The real battle for me turned out to be getting through the roof above Seventh Aardvark from the ground. The moves through the roof  involve really powerful undercutting of 4 crimpy undercuts leading to a gnarly tooth/ crimp for the right hand just before the hole. In the end, keeping my left foot a little lower for the move to the tooth took some of the power out of it and after 7 or 8 sessions I finally made it to the hole in a oner.

Leaving the second hole

Tricky moves leading to the 3rd rest

Had the upper part of the route not been totally wet that day, I reckon I would have been in with a good shout of doing it as I had by that stage got the top part pretty wired and would do it cleanly at the end of every session. However, this is UK sport climbing we're talking about (!) and I had to wait a week for the route to dry for my chance to seal the deal. It went down on a much drier saturday the following weekend. A pint in the Buck inn followed (remember those, alcoholic drinks!?) which went down particularly nicely if I recall.

The upper crux on crimps

The last shakeout, don't blow it here!

The final 5b moves, beer time!

Hungry for the next route, I got on Unjustified within an hour of clipping the chains of Bat Route, why hang about! Now this route is a very different animal to the latter one, being more of a true stamina route rather than series of desparate boulder problems between jug rests masquerading as a fitness route. On Unjustified, although the moves through the bulge are easier (V6 max) you have to keep climbing to survive with virtually no rest anywhere on the headwall. Perpetual motion is your only hope! In fact there is barely anywhere to stop and clip other than at 2 decent holds out right halfway up. Something Stupid seems significantly harder than Seventh Aardvark to me for 7b and the fact that there is no shakeout on it at the chains makes it particularly pumpy leading into the crux moves over the bulge. It took several sessions before I felt like I had much to give on the crux after trying the whole route from the ground.

Linking through the crux to the top is about 8a but unfortunately, the bolt after the crux needs repositioning as you have a nightmarish long draw to reach up and clip which, because of the steep angle of the rock, hangs out over a foot into space, so it is almost behind your head when you try and clip it. If the bolt was repositioned lower at chest height then the clip would be easier, although still hard I bet, and the whole route would be a much safer and and more approachable proposition. However, bolting costs time which most time starved rock activists don't have much of (lame sounding I know) so this less than ideal setup will remain until somebody does something about it.

Anway, after speaking to the catwalk regulars about this nightmare clip, it appeared that they fell into 2 camps, those electing to clip it or skip it. Twice on the first session I made it through the crux to this clip only to barely get my rope in the draw and then slump onto it pumped stupid in a jibbering heap. When I thought about it, as you are pulling through armfulls of slack in a ridulously strenuous position, why not just climb past it then reach down and left to clip it from the rest out right? Only a the prospect of a 25 footer to focus the mind! I road tested the fall twice on my next visit to the crag and the results are in the following clip:

UNJUSTIFIED - 25 FOOT FALL FROM AFTER THE CRUX



Its actually a pretty soft (although massive!) fall and you end up around the 3rd bolt of Something Stupid although when I got a move higher the next go, I fell a bit more awkwardly and ended up grazing my hip against the rock a bit, take care out there kids! As is usual with these things, the buildup in the mind is worse than actually taking the ride.

After considering that I may have been held back mentally from commiting to the redpoint crux leading to the rest being so runout, I decided to just go for it. After a 2 week break while the route was wet and a period spent on other projects at the Tor, I came back and it felt a different ballgame. Such a great feeling to come back to the scene of a previous failure and then cruise past it fully in control - this is what redpointing is all about, the moments we train for. Here is the footage of my successful attempt - (I elected to to do 'Overjustified' and finish up the 7a+ extension 'Dudley Do Good', which is really no harder than Unjustified but a fun workout nonetheless).

THE SEND OF OVERJUSTIFIED!



Footnote on grades - I guess no blog about Bat Route or Unjustified would be complete without an assessment of the grades of both. From having climbed both within 6 weeks of each other, I would say that Bat Route is a fair bit harder for me as a stamina climber as I found the roof section so hard. However, power climbers I know seem to really struggle on the top wall on the link, which I could get through every time. To me, this route was easier overall than Mecca Extension but just about 8c for the difficulty of the crux moves. Ondra seems to question on his 8a.nu scorecard whether an upgrade from 8b+ was really warranted since the first ascent. Although a good hold has come off where the tooth now is and the midsection is now climbed more direct due to the loss of an undercut out right, is this enough to bump it up by a full letter grade?...maybe.  

Regarding the grade of Unjustified, I reckon this must be 8b+ as although it is undoubtedly sustained, the moves are not hard enough in my opinion for the route to be graded the magic grade of 8c. Also, is it as hard as To Bolt or Not to Be, a confirmed (although tough) 5.14a (8b+) of a comparable (pure fitness) style? - the answer is no, it is fair bit easier I reckon.

So there we have it, the number crunching is done, don't let this put you off the sheer quality of both routes, Bat Route in particular is world class. All aspirant ascentionists, get to it!!



Source: Ted's Blog

[comPiler]

Kaabah
17 August 2014, 7:50 am

Six weeks have gone by since I completed my long term project Kaabah at Raven Tor and the whole thing has now sunk in. I have since been ticking some easier routes for a bit of variety and have also been on an awesome 2 week trip to the Alps around Chamonix. This required doing a few days of trad at Gogarth, Millstone and Stoney to get back into placing wires and cams, which was thoroughly enjoyable after so much time spent at the Tor.

I started trying Kaabah on the same day I clipped the chains of the Extension back in June last year. It felt like the logical next step to make use of the fitness gained in trying a similar route but even harder! While the Extension stacks an 8a on top of an 8b+ with two very good rests, Kaabah has significantly harder climbing (8a+) leaving Mecca just before its belay and then rejoining the Extension from below in the middle of its final traverse right, with only a poorer, single resting spot in a 'niche' high up on the wall. I knew this was going to push me to the limit when I began trying it but resolved that as long as I continued to see progress I would stick with it  as it would be amazing to do such a cool 'directissima' on Mecca, taking the route to its ultimate conclusion.

 The Mecca Crux (Video Still)

Early Days

I initially spent some time working out different methods for the very thin moves leaving the rest and studied the few videos of the route. I couldn't touch Steve's ultracrimpy method, its nails! Alex and Ryan's way going straight for the base of the Extension flake with the right hand was too reachy so I managed to work out a way pressing out left at the limit of my reach off a nasty thumb sprag to the 'car body filler' undercut of the Extension (don't ask!) I even managed to link to the base of the Extension Flake from the base of the Mecca groove using this early method before realising that by instead pulling on one of the tiny footholds of the Extension slightly higher up with my right hand the move was made a bit easier, although its still a very fickle customer in the wrong conditions. With my new sequence, although you are able to join the Extension a move earlier than either of Steve's or Alex's method's, you still have work to do as you are pretty stretched out and need to semi-dynamically flick you right hand into the tiny black sidepull used on the Extension once you have gained the left hand undercut (which is an extremely precarious move and requires you to drill you right toe into a tiny dink by your feet which is barely visible as you are pasted to the wall and can't easily spy your footholds). After repeated work, I was able to reliably climb from the niche to the Extension belay as part of my warm up on the route. This was the first time I had worked out a new method on a climb for myself so I was quite satisfied with the whole process.

Now just the link in of Mecca to go, easier said than done! In July last year I started the process of linking in sections of Mecca from successively lower stages (i.e. first the belay then the base of the groove by the 5th blot then from the 3rd bolt by the big pocket). This adds a lot of pump to the upper 8a+ as I soon found. Before I was able to complete the key link from the 3rd bolt to the top, I got sucked into trying it from the ground, perhaps too early as this year it seemed that just knowing that you have completed this major link makes a big difference mentally. Progress came incrementally and last summer it turned into a war of attrition. Every saturday morning I would be there for another attempt and eventually got to the stage where I managed to join the Extension from the ground, although in a stage of terminal pump. I tried everything from gaffa taping the final clip into the rock to even using a fluorescent orange sticky tab to mark the hard-to-spot foothold.

On this route you only get very small windows for success as firstly you have to get yourself up Mecca every time. Then you need to be firing on all cylinders for the top wall so just scraping up Mecca is not enough, you need to own every hold and get to the rest with something left in the tank. On too many attempts I arrived at the shakeout with very little or nothing left to give to the top moves. They felt completely desparate from the ground and I found it was pretty much irrelevant how good they felt on the warmup. I got to the stage in August where I was fighting for extra individual moves on each successive visit, pushing my highpoint gradually upwards and routinely trying the hardest I have ever fought on a rock climb. Still, I was making some limited progress, enough to entice me to keep coming back for more.

The Falls

The moves on the top wall are so sustained that I found no place where you could stop and clip a bolt between the one you clip at the resting niche and the next one, which is a fair way above. There is the old 'bean can' aid bolt inbetween which offers a possibility for clipping an intermediate bolt in the middle of the upper crux. This can be backed up with a long sling  but I found that this drained power at a crucial stage so rather than diminishing my chances, I decided to press on and embrace taking the ride! If you fall off on the moves getting both hands on the Extension flake you will take up to a 25 footer (hard grit comes to the lime!) Don't let this put you off though as it is actually an alright fall if you take care to stay balanced, don't tense up and get a nice soft catch - I must have taken this fall over 30 times so I guess I have road tested it!

In order to clip the next bolt after the niche, you must get both hands on the Extension flake and then, (as per the front cover of Alastair Lee's DVD 'Psyche') take you right hand off to quickly drop the rope into the draw. I found that as the bolt was so close in this position, it was easier to use a single crab. This feels the living end from the ground as all your muscles are screaming for you to let go and end the agony! It feels the easiest thing in the world just to grab the draw and give up!

 The Big Fall! Attempt 24 June 2014

Failure

After 14 times reaching the resting niche or higher from the ground in August and September,  on my best attempt I got to the move shared with the Extension where you  have to put your right heel really high up on the flake while  compressing between opposing sidepulls in order to reach up for higher  crimps and easier moves leading to the final jugs. I probably only had  1% power left to give and remember squeezing like crazy between the  flake with my right hand and the tiny high sidepull for my left hand. I  briefly thought this was it, the time I was going to do it (a  mistake in retrospect). Then dismayingly my heel refused to go any  higher up to the flake as my arms gave out and I was off plummeting back into the void. Close but no cigar!

This last attempt proved to be my best go of the year and due to evening sessions on the route running out in late August, I was never able to regain this highpoint despite quite a few more attempts. I had a trip to Smith Rock planned in the last 2 weeks of October so resolved to get it bagged on my return but unfortunately the crag started seeping, which stopped everybody's campaigns on their projects for the year.

2014 - A Fresh Approach

A return trip to Smith Rocks in March proving the key to getting the monkey off my back. I felt a different climber this year, fitter from multiple laps on many 7b's and 7b+'s at Stockport but probably less strong from doing less bouldering. Ticking To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith was a great confidence booster and although it is a different beast to Kaabah being less steep but with twice as many moves, it provided a great foundation to work from. I had to bide my time up in Yorkshire in April and early May while the route dried out. Eventually the niche dried out enough to allow redpoint attempts. Crucially I managed to do the 3rd bolt to top link in late June, which I then managed on three other occasions. All I needed to do now was get up Mecca again.

 Link from the 3rd bolt to the Top - 1 July 2014

I was also trying to gain more fitness on Kristian's excellent 7c 'Resistance', which is the finish to either Mark Tomlinson's 'Resistance is Futile' 8a+ or a new linkup I did 'Chimes of Resistance' 8b and is conveniently placed just above and to the right of the Extension loweroff. I found that this provided a crucial extra few percent of stamina. Frustratingly in late June/early July, I had 3 or 4 sessions where I couldn't get up the big M. However, I knew I could do it, it was a just a matter of time before I could stick the crux of Mecca gaining the horn - get working your left hand deadhangs for this move!

The Send

The day I did it I had actually had two previous unsuccessful attempts at getting through Mecca. I tried from the ground for a third time more as a matter of routine than anything else but was very relieved when I finally held the horn and then gained the kneebar in the groove. I knew I had a good chance even though the day was getting on and the air temperature was warming up. Arriving in the niche, I remembered not to outstay my welcome and pressed on up the sidepulls and gastons. The moves leading to the Extension flake and making the next clip felt good and in control although I could tell I had only a small margin for error. This time on the compression move was payback time and I was able to get my right heel up just fine, no terminal pump this time round. The last few moves passed in a blur and before I knew it I was hanging off the final jugs shouting for joy. The finish up Resistance felt hard but a fitting finish to create a new linkup 'Kaabah is Futile', no change in grade, just more pump!

It was great to finish this project and finally be free from something that badly needed finishing off. So, onto the next project, good luck with all your sends out there, there is an end to all redpoint sagas...eventually!



Source: Ted's Blog

[highrepute]

Great stuff Ted. Thanks for the write up.

[comPiler]

Alpine Interlude
3 October 2014, 10:12 pm

In August I took a two week trip to Chamonix to attempt a long term ambition of trying the Grand Capucin, an immaculate spire of golden granite near Mont Blanc rising above the Glacier du Geant to a height of 3,838m. Ever since I went to Chamonix on trips as a student in 1997, 98 and 99, I had a dream of climbing the Grand Capucin. A trip out in the summer of 2010 with friends from Jersey was blighted by poor weather and another chance slipped by. So maybe fifth time lucky! This trip, the dream team comprised of my good friends John, Ryan and Duncan.

After a few sessions at Stoney, Millstone and Gogarth dusting down the wires following a lengthy absence from traditional climbing, we began to get a bit of the trad flow back and it was time to practise these skills on the larger canvas that the mountain routes on the granite peaks around Chamonix offer. For me, while I had been doing a lot of sport climbing lately, I have been on a fair few alpine trips in the past, including a successful trip to the Dolomites in the summer of 2009 when Ben Heason and I managed to free climb Attraverso il Pesce or 'The Fish', a classic 14 pitch E6 on the south Face of the Marmolada. Big peaks like the Grand Capucin don't climb themselves and I realised that if I was ever to achieve my goal, it had better be right now!

                                                     Pre-alpine training - London Wall E5 6b at Millstone                                                                                                                                                                                                                        The Cruise E5 E5 Gogarth Upper TierAfter a solid 18 hour journey from Nottingham (nice one for driving us all there non-stop John!), we set up base camp in the Ile des Barrats campsite just outside Cham. The next morning we caught the first 'phrique up to the Midi Plan intent on bagging the Aigulle du Peigne via its famous slabby north face. Unfortunately the first day up in the hills brought it home how wet the summer had been. The slabs were completely soaked and we had to abandon this plan in favour of the Red Pillar of the Aiguille de Blatiere. John and I bagged 'Deux Goals' 7a, a cracking, short 5 pitch line that involved plenty of jamming in wet, strenuous cracks!



 Deux Goals 7a, (pitch 1), Aiguille de Blatiere

Next up was an expedition up to the Envers Hut above the Mer de Glace. This was the only time we stayed in an alpine hut and it was a true pleasure to spend 3 nights in such a remote shelter perched precariously on a little rock shoulder under the towering granite needles of the Aiguille de Roc and the Pointes des Nantillons. I suffered mightily on the 3.5 hour walk in up endless iron ladders with my sport climbers pigeon legs! Routes bagged here by John and I were 'L'Age de Homme', an 11 pitch 6c ending on the 1st Pointe des Nantillons which was a warmup to the distinctly stiffer 'Pyramide' 7a, a more well known Michel Piola classic on an asthetic buttress right of the seminal route 'Children of the Moon', which Ryan and Duncan did on the same day.

Pyramide offered a short, sharp crux section followed by some 'meat and potatoes' jamming work in some straight in hand jamming cracks following by a delicate, exposed step out left onto an arete on the second hardest pitch, which John fired off despite the wet conditions. At the base of  the second tower, a burly hand and fist crack graded a stern 6b+ led to easier ground and the summit.

Classic pose at Montenvers

The Mer de Glace

View towards the Deant du Geant and the Seracs du Geant from L'Age de Homme 6c, 1st Pointe des Nantillons

Pyramide 7a (pitch 4),  Aiguille de Roc





Pyramide 7a (pitch 5)



 Poco Locos in Chamonix, a calorific feed!  Back in the valley, some rest and recuperation followed after 3 hard days in the hills and a raid to the excellent valley crag, Gietroz, which is just inside the Swiss border during which I managed to bag the classic 'Reve de Singe' 8a before a massive thunderstorm. One of the local guides actually said it had been the worst July for 30 years. Next came a run up 'La Fin de Babylone' on the South Face of Le Brevent in the Aiguilles Rouges (opposite from the Mont Blanc massif), an 8 pitch 6c on a dodgy weather day. This provided some good mileage purely on bolts while we were waiting for a 3 day good weather window towards the end of the second week. I even jogged down from the summit of Le Brevent to save the 8 Euro cable car ride down, must have been getting fitter!

'La Fin de Babylone' 6c (pitch 5), South Face of Le Brevent

We were so pleased to have a chance at getting a go at the Grand Capucin as the weather seemed set fair but were initially apprehensive as it looked very wintry up there and by all accounts there had been fresh snow down to 3,300m and the climbing is well above this altitude! We ummed and aahed and had many debates over leisurely beers and coffees in the campsite over whether to go for it or leave it for another year.  Finally we were galvanised into action after meeting a German team who had just done the Swiss route the previous day and said it was OK to climb although a bit snowy on ledges high up and pretty wet in many of the cracks. Sounded worth a punt!   We were all pretty apprehensive heading down the snow arete to the glacier below the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi but excited at the same time, this was finally it, after months of waiting, planning, buying new kit and psyching up for the route, our chance was finally here. We trecked for a couple of hours down the Glacier du Geant roped up as a four and set up camp on the glacier a few hundred metres below the Capucin, which briefly loomed out of the mist before darkness fell. We could all feel the effects of the alitude as we were a fair bit higher up than our previous forays. It was bloody freezing in the night and despite buying a brand new top of the range sleeping bag before the trip, it was difficult to sleep in temperatures that must have dropped below minus ten.  

 Home for 2 nights! Base camp on the Glacier du Geant below the Grand Capucin Early start for the Capucin (v cold!)

We set off as soon as it was possible to warm our fingers and were at the base of the route, having cramponed up the approach gully at 7:30am, while all the loose rock that tends to funnel down this later in the day was well frozen in. Temperatures rapidly rose until we were climbing in T-shirts. John and I had initially planned on doing the Swiss Route but as this was quite busy, we decided to branch off left onto O Sole Mio, a slightly harder line which involved some pretty burly jamming. It was a joy to plug in cams and solid nuts and move quickly over some very high quality, golden granite. The crux 8th pitch was an awkward, bolt protected wall and maybe it was the alititude but it felt a good 7a to me!

O Sole Mio 6c (pitch 5), South Face of the Grand Capucin

O Sole Mio 6c (crux pitch 8)

The air temps became distinctly colder later in the afternoon and time was marching on as we battled with some sustained crack work. All our layers came on and we presssed on to the summit even though it was getting towards 5pm, this was too good a chance to miss, how many times in your life do you get this close to the summit of the Grand Capucin? Finally we topped out and took in a breathtaking view across the entire Mont Blanc range. We only had 10 minutes to spare before beginning the 10+ abseils back down to base camp, which took longer than planned due to the (inevitable?) rope jams. At 8pm we crawled back into camp and had several revitalising brews and a tasty meal in the bag cooked on John's jet boil for supper.

Summit of the Grand Capucin 3,838m, the highest I've ever been!

View towards the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey from the summit of the Grand Capucin

A long way (500m) straight down from the summit to base camp!

Endless, cold abseils. Le Trident (3639m) in the background

The next day we were all quite tired so despite the  excellent weather, we took it easy and walked back up the glacier to set  up camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. We had one  more day of alpine climbing left and managed to put this to good use in bagging the classic  'Contamine Route' 7a on the right side of the south face. I had actually  seconded this 15 years previously on a trip here with Andy Pedley and  still remembered most of it. Duncan did a barnstorming lead on the crux  pitch, probably E4 at sea level - anybody's guess up at 3,700m! We just  made the last 'phrique down after busting a gut powering up the arete  with monster rucksacks packed full of wet ropes, tents, stoves and gear,  probably 70lbs plus each! I think our record time was 39 mins from the  glacier up to the ticket station! We were definitely all feeling fitter.  

New base camp below the south face of the Aiguille du Midi

Contamine Route, 7a (2nd pitch)

Mont Blanc du Tacul (plenty of tents pitched)

Dunc's big lead! Contamine Route 7a (crux 6th pitch)

So to sum up, we had an awesome time out in Cham - it was great to get away from familiar haunts back in the UK and do something different for a change. It has definitely inpired me at least for a return visit in the next few years. The Bonatti Pillar on the Capucin awaits, now that is a king line!



Source: Ted's Blog

[Fiend]

Nice one beasts.

[comPiler]

The Year of Malham
6 November 2014, 10:40 pm

It has been a vintage season for Malham Cove this year. I have enjoyed experiencing the different seasons at the crag from the cool temps of spring, the heat of summer (which can be avoided by climbing superlate at the crag), the send temps of autumn to where we are at the moment in the cold conditions of early winter.

I have been going to Malham ever since I was at university in Manchester and still have my Rockfax 1990 guide which has been a source of continuing psyche. Seeing Cry Freedom in the guide next to the other classics, I always wondered whether I would ever be able to climb this historic line. I actually tried it in 2011 with James Riley for a couple of session but was way off the level back then. This year I was excited to use some of the fitness gained from trips away and plenty of time spent at the Tor to try some of the legendary staminafests the crag has to offer.

After coming back from the Alps in August, it took a couple of weeks to get my sport fitness back but it returned pretty quickly. I was pleased to do Totally Free 2, which was totally awesome (linking The Groove 8a+ into Free and Easy 7c then into the final roof of Breach of the Peace). This must be one of the best challenges at the grade in the UK even though there are quite a few good rests at key stages. Having frustratingly fallen off the last few moves in the wet before going to the Alps heaving up over the final barrel once stood up over the roof, the key to doing this was taking the trouble to first tick 'An Uneasy Peace 7c+' which starts up Free and Easy to its last bolt. Instead of going up and left to the belay of Free and Easy, Uneasy goes straight up via a runout section to finish up Breach. I reckon the roof of Breach must be 7c in its own right as it is burly and a tough finish to Totally Free 2 after 25 bolts of climbing, despite the hands off rest below Breach. Definitely save yourself the trouble of climbing all this way without having the top ruthlessly wired...and try not to attempt it in the rain either like me! I couldn't believe it when the heavens opened on my successful redpoint. Luckily I managed to bear down enough on the final wet crimps to avoid getting spat off into the void below. Here are some pics.

The lower crux of the The Groove

Bridging rest on The Groove

Strenuous moves leaving the rest

Starting the hard section of the second half of The Groove

Keep on trucking! Just past the crux on Free and Easy 7c

After this, I had a couple of sunday sessions on Cry Freedom second day on and sorted out all the moves but it was only when I started trying it fresh that I managed to make some breakthroughs. Linking from the undercut rest at the end of the initial 6 bolt 7c to the top was a massive buzz as it includes the first crux bulge which has some baffling V7 moves. The upper crux on its own must be about V6, depending on your reach. I know that climbers of shorter stature really struggle on this last section but I was lucky enough to be able to just reach the crux crimp with my right hand from the big undercut at the end of the final 'corner'. Getting fully crimped on this hold and having a little bend left in your arm while your right foot remains on a small spike foothold at the back of the bulge is crucial. You then place a tenuous heel/ toe cam in a big hole out left and take a grim little slot/ sidepull for your left hand. Releasing the heel/ toe is the real crux whilst remaining pasted to the wall as the next moves are a little easier and you are soon stood up over the bulge on small crimps eyeing up the belay.  

Here is a video of the send. I would encourage anybody to try this route who may be having second thoughts given the many stories of last move failure out there. This is a stonking route with a real sense of history. I even managed to get a decent kneebar rest below the last crux which with a 5.10 pad is not far hands off if you can tense up your core enough. Unlike Bat Route or Unjustified, the crux is right where it should be, at the top!

Cry Freedom 8c - FA Mark Leach 1988

A short word on the grade of Cry Freedom compared to Unjustied and Bat Route. I reckon it is harder than either of these two routes overall although of a different character. On Bat Route, while the moves individually are often desperate, particularly the roof section, the hard bits tend to be broken up by really good resting jugs and a bomber kneebar. Unjustified by contract is the opposite having virtually no rest but with moves which are perhaps not quite as hard with the exception of the crux bulge. I have gone with Mark Leach's original grade of 8c for Cry Freedom as this is apparently the grade he gave it initially after his 46 day siege, which has become part of climbing folklore. I hear it was only after the first few repeats that it got downgraded. Jibe Tribout apparently thought it was easier than Mecca but was going well at the time!

After Cry Freedom, I got my guide out and sussed out the remaining doable ticks I had left on the lower catwalk. Twisted and the Well Dunne Finish were obvious gaps and I was stoked to be able to tick both after a spot of spring cleaning of some very dusty holds. I would definitely recommend both of these routes. I would not say Twisted was much easier than Well Dunne but see what you think. Hopefully these two videos are useful for beta.

Twisted 8a - FA Mick Lovatt 1988

Well Dunne Finish 8b - FA John Dunne 1988

So the crucial question, which of GBH or Zoolook is it best to start up when trying Well  Dunne? Zoolook of course! To me, its a fair bit easier than GBH with a bomber rest at the fifth bolt that GBH doesn't have. So, get it while you still can, the crag is still dry I hear, see you out there!



Source: Ted's Blog

[comPiler]

Update
23 November 2014, 11:32 pm

I hope you have all been getting out and enjoying the mostly still dry crags. To update you, I am excited to be working with Scarpa from now on. I have been wearing Instinct VS's recently and have been very impressed with the edging power, stiffness and downturned toe which has been awesome on some of the small footgrips at the Tor. In particular, on Mecca you need to be able to stand on some pretty poor, polished edges on the crux section gaining the base of the groove and I have noticed the moves feeling easier due to more weight going through my feet, which is a great thing!

The Tor season is still hanging in there, I have to keep pinching myself thinking the crag is bone dry and it is 23 November! It is a bit of an effort to stay warm enough and avoid the dreaded hotaches or 'numbing out' as it is called across the pond. Sprinting up and down the road 5 minutes before climbing seems to work but then all the blood can go to your legs and away from your hands. Handwarmers work for some. Maybe the Spanish trick of a heated rock in the chalkbag might be an idea...or better actually move to Spain!

Right now I'm trying Haaj, the left hand extension to Mecca which is a cool piece of climbing with some V8 or even V9 moves on the crux on rat crimps and two gnarly undercuts. Fortunately there is a half decent rest after leaving Mecca Extension. I'm also trying a long link of Mecca into the Whore of Babylon, which is easier but will still be a stout 8b+. It adds a 9 bolt 8a on top of Mecca and is very pumpy!

For inspiration, here is a shot of warmer climes from March this year and one of the most classic 12d's or 7c's at Smith Rock, USA taken by my friend Tom Wright. Can anybody guess which route?



Stay tuned folks and happy climbing!



Source: Ted's Blog

[Doylo]

Fucking hell Ted are you not bored with Mecca yet?!