Went to have a look on Sunday and it makes the problem slightly harder for me as I tip-toed left along those chipped holds then stretched to the good crimps in the 'smile'. It's as easy for me to do it 'properly' again now with a smear and pull off smaller crimps. Don't some shorter climbers start on those edges (I'm not affected as I palm off from my left)?
The almost as depressing thing was the usual in-situ top-ropers skidding around and polishing Downhill Racer.
On the plus side a local called Paul showed me a lovely sustained traverse on the northern Pinnacle Boulder west face. Slap R to L along the main break avoiding any pockets above and below to finish in the recess. A tasty V2/5b/F6a with possibilities to extend to the NE arete that are too hard for me.
