[rich d]

What next are we gonna quote ondra as saying fingers don't matter it's biceps biceps biceps, cos that's where he struggles. Obviously they've done him no harm but if he was to point out his weaknesses that's where he'd identify.

but Dense wouldn't that be easier for him to identify if he could look at a nice scatter graph on the UKB wiki and see that he is below the curve of 8a boulderers 1RM on a bicep curl test? 

[nai]

Surely for all the measurable variables you can think of it'll come down to finger strength and finger endurance?

Struggling to remember Malc's exact quote, was it: "fingers, fingers, fingers"?

Sorry missed a key word out there, What I was trying to say in too few words is that if you're trying to predict a route grade based on performance factors the only indicator is how long you can pull on small (relative to grade) holds for, like Tom Randall's lattice board does.
Other factors obviously contribute to specific route and move types but generally it's your fingers/forearms that are going to give out first.

[tomtom]

I normally suffer core failure before my fingers give up...

[shark]

I normally suffer core failure before my fingers give up...

Nothing normal about that

[nai]

I normally suffer core failure before my fingers give up...

That'll be your diet of Demon Wall Roof, Dolphin, Underhand, Keel, etc

Don't recall it being your core that gave out on The Rasp 

[tomtom]

I normally suffer core failure before my fingers give up...

That'll be your diet of Demon Wall Roof, Dolphin, Underhand, Keel, etc

Don't recall it being your core that gave out on The Rasp 

Nope. I have no stamina. Forearms destroyed after 2 min...

To qualify, in a bouldering session, I do generally find body tension goes, arse sags, before my fingers are tired..

[webbo]

Shirley thats more to do with having a fat arse.

[tomtom]

Shirley thats more to do with having a fat arse.

You saying my arse looks big Webbo

Heard you'd moved to the South Bank - not seen you at RockShitty for a while.. things alright?

[Clart]

Bring it on, it would be interesting to see what data comes out the other end. Yeh, there are loads of variables but there will be general trends that come through (e.g. unlikely to be many people one arming off a campus run and not climbing font 7a). It'll also be good training motivation during this piss poor weather we are enjoying. 

[rodma]

Do eeet, do eet noooow!

[Sasquatch]

I'll bite.

Current:
Height - 178cm
Weight - 78.5kg
Fingers - +50kg on 18mm edge for 10 sec
Pull - Pull up with +44kg
DL - 160kg
Boulder - 8A+ max, 7C+ consistantly in a session

If you think of others you want to add let me know.

[rodma]

All within last month
Height 168cm
Weight 57kg
Easy onearm small metrolius campus rung (18mm ish maybe slightly bigger), left arm slightly better. (open cheating handed)
Can one arm hang and pull around small rung for a long time (again if cheating by being open handed)
Deadlift 3 x 106kg
Best boulder 8a+
Was told by physio post hand damage 2 years ago that campusing would be out of the question forever. Changed physio. Can just one hand catch small rungs again as of last week. Game on.

[tomtom]

Height - 186cm
Weight - 75 kg
Fingers - +10KG deadhang on large BM hold.
Can hold second to smallest crimps on a BM (consistently)
Pull ups - weighted c.10KG, no lock off on one arm.

Boulder - 7B+ max, 7A/+ ish in a session

[Richie Crouch]

Height: 187
Weight: 70
Dead hang: have done pullups on 10mm crimps with 35kg on.
Pullups: can do about 15
45's: can't hang them
Front lever: negative
Deadlift: 125 1 rep/120 3 rep
Campus: can't currently do 1-4-7 on med rungs.
Boulders: Swiss or p.e. 8A+ at best. Regularly 7B+.
Routes: did a few 7b's!

/weak

[ksjs]

Was doing some stuff at work and I got thinking about the resource that is UKB. Would there be any value in trying to benchmark feats of strength etc against worked grade eg can hang a 1cm edge for x amount of time, lock off x, campus y, do a front lever for, do so many pull ups and climbs grade x

Maybe not quite what you're after but there's a table in The Self-Coached Climber (a good book on training etc). It shows 4 measures (local aerobic level, local anaerobic level, strength and stamina) and performance indicators for each e.g. 'Max Bouldering Level' for strength and 'Highest Intensity 4x4' for local anaerobic level. The table shows a typical performance level for each measure across the grades (routes).

This performance level is consistent with onsights or fast redpoints at the respective grade and seems to match my experience almost exactly. So, using the table you can in theory work out where you need to be focusing training  The book discusses the various exercises you can do to build ability in each of these areas. For anyone who's got the book, the table's on page 192. If anybody's interested I can scan the table and put it on / link to it on here.

[ksjs]

Posted this twice by accident - sorry!

[webbo]

Shirley thats more to do with having a fat arse.

You saying my arse looks big Webbo

Heard you'd moved to the South Bank - not seen you at RockShitty for a while.. things alright?

Yes I have and I was at RC yesterday. However tonight I will be at the grand opening of the North Lincolnshire Age Concerns Premier Bouldering Centre.

[Will Hunt]

shorties are always going to have to be better climbers to climb 90% of the things lankies do.

Firstly, I don't see why hot girls should be at an inherent disadvantage in climbing.

Secondly, you're wrong. Here's the SCIENCE:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10347.msg171064.html#msg171064

[Dexter]

shorties are always going to have to be better climbers to climb 90% of the things lankies do.

Firstly, I don't see why hot girls should be at an inherent disadvantage in climbing.

Secondly, you're wrong. Here's the SCIENCE:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10347.msg171064.html#msg171064

pretty sure there was some sort of study done on climbing physique and the only major correlation was body fat % height/weight/etc all had a pretty large standard deviation

edit: I have no idea where this was though