UKBouldering.com

Your Most Obscure Guidebook (Read 10605 times)

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3398
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#25 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 04:09:20 pm
Thanks for that Fiend.  :thumbsup:

Watch out for stones through your windscreen at Markfield.

These are the sort of comments that have kept me away from Leics so far! Is this from rockfall, local kids, angry residents or some other pitfall I'm too naive to imagine?

Stubbs

  • Guest
#26 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 04:11:06 pm
Is that the "crag" in the picture? Is there nothing else nearby?

Yes, and no respectively, especially when you don't have a car!  It's floodlit so provides a change from the wall for post work climbing in Brizzy. Polished to Stoneyesque levels!

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3840
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#27 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 04:44:31 pm
I think i may have one to a limestone sport area near Krakow, Poland. It wasn't that great (book or climbing)

I have a home-print copy of the South Devon and Dartmoor supplement produced by Moorland Rambler in Exeter, that's quite obscure.

A Czech guide to Tisa and Ostrov? I can't understand enough of it to know if it is obscure. :shrug:

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#28 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 06:03:59 pm
I haven't got it or even seen it, although I know it exists or existed.

But I'd kill to have a look at the Portsmouth sea walls guidebook (c. 1990s) if anyone knows anything.
Saw it once (that was my main training venue in Uni days), never found out how to get a copy though... I do remember, most routes started with reference to their vicinity to the "do not climb on this ancient monument" sign...

It was mine too, when I couldn't scrounge a lift to Purbrook.  Fun trying to get a session in before the coastguard spotted you.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11472
  • Karma: +700/-22
#29 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 06:41:21 pm
I've got four different Lleyn guides.

SamT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2087
  • Karma: +96/-0
#30 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 06:50:00 pm

Probably this



or this


rodma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1626
  • Karma: +60/-3

SamT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2087
  • Karma: +96/-0
#32 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 07:15:13 pm

 ;D

I was a bit gutted back in 1991 to discover that this wasn't Ceuse when we arrived  :wall:

tregiffian

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 277
  • Karma: +5/-1
  • Struggling
#33 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 08:13:18 pm
Can`t do the quote thing - stones thrown by kids at Markfield. It wasn`t a one off but was a few years ago.

rodma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1626
  • Karma: +60/-3
#34 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 28, 2012, 09:16:35 pm

 ;D

I was a bit gutted back in 1991 to discover that this wasn't Ceuse when we arrived  :wall:

Was in the vicinity with family a couple of years ago, so escaped to ceou with mrs rodma for a couple of afternoons to get sore feet, gripped and roasted by the sun. i'm sure it's a great venue if you like that sort of thing.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2694
  • Karma: +117/-0
#35 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 29, 2012, 08:10:46 pm
I've climbed at 10 crags in Leicestershire. I reckon there must be at least a dozen good routes there.

You're ahead of me then. I've only climbed at about half a dozen crags in Leicestershire that I can think of off the top of my head. But my Leicestershire Climbs was the 1970s yellow one, which was already a great rarity when I bought it circa 1980.

Any recommendations?

Moonshot, Beacon Hill
Starship Trooper, Beacon Hill
Mango, The Brand
Sailaway, The Brand
Virago, Craig Buddon
Sorcerer, Forest Rock
Saucy, Forest Rock
Definitely Not, Forest Rock
Chequered Slab, Markfield
Plain Sailing, Markfield
Baptism, Markfield
Central Route, Oaks Pinnacle
Central Crack, Pocketgate Quarry

Pocketgate is a SSSI with Pre-Cambrian rock of great geological / palaeontological significance and climbing there is *very* banned.

Quote
+ harder stuff at the Brand and a couple of decent sport routes at Hangingstone.

All assume good condition, and appreciation of short esoteric outcrop/quarry routes, YMMV etc etc

There used to be some decent routes at Huncote (e.g. The Rack, 3rd ascent me) and Whitwick too, long since landfilled.

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
#36 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 30, 2012, 11:46:11 am
I think I've still got a copy of the guide showing the bouldering on the main building of Bangor Uni.

ianvincent

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 4
  • Karma: +0/-0
#37 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 30, 2012, 11:59:18 am
I once had a guide book for here:


The Bunker, Berlin by tchihaya, on Flickr

Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#38 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 30, 2012, 04:33:09 pm
I've got a guide for a random little Christian Core bouldering area in Northern Italy called Triora, don't think many people have heard of it.

chummer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 582
  • Karma: +26/-2
#39 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
September 30, 2012, 09:12:45 pm
Never heard of it Doylo

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#40 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 12:31:52 am
I once had a guide book for here:



Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
I used to have the guidebook for Finedon Slabs in Northamptonshire - an old iron ore loading bay constructed of concrete. Those ones in Berlin look like El Cap by comparison...

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29285
  • Karma: +635/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#41 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 08:05:32 am
still concrete though.

This looks a lot more pleasant

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Blantyre_Towers

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7998
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#42 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 12:40:57 pm
I've got a guide for a random little Christian Core bouldering area in Northern Italy called Triora, don't think many people have heard of it.
Mostly famous for a diplomatic incident a few years ago, when in full summer Mauro Calibani went and flashed "Mano Aperta", that Core had given 8a. Turns out it's only 7b+/c but at the moment it caused a bit of a shock.


Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#43 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 01:34:57 pm
I've got a guide for a random little Christian Core bouldering area in Northern Italy called Triora, don't think many people have heard of it.
Mostly famous for a diplomatic incident a few years ago, when in full summer Mauro Calibani went and flashed "Mano Aperta", that Core had given 8a. Turns out it's only 7b+/c but at the moment it caused a bit of a shock.



Ye Danny Cattell did it when we were there, he was only 15 or so. Core 8a down to 7b+!!!  :o

Good video ha ha

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#44 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 03:36:12 pm
I once had a guide book for here:



Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
I used to have the guidebook for Finedon Slabs in Northamptonshire - an old iron ore loading bay constructed of concrete. Those ones in Berlin look like El Cap by comparison...

I had that guide too - very strange 'crag'. I went there in 1983 for some reason.

Once when I was working for DR Climbing walls back in the early 90s I was asked to go back to a spray concrete lead tower that we had previously built at a military base near Carlisle. Myself and Rennie climbed all the routes and possible variations then I had to write a guidebook to it. Lovely sunny couple of days - almost felt like we were down at Trevallen (almost).

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#45 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 05:23:39 pm
I once had a guide book for here:



Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
I used to have the guidebook for Finedon Slabs in Northamptonshire - an old iron ore loading bay constructed of concrete. Those ones in Berlin look like El Cap by comparison...

I had that guide too - very strange 'crag'. I went there in 1983 for some reason.


That must have been in the heady days of route development there! I was there after all the 'classics' had been established - probably 1987ish. I only went once - not a patch on Slawston...

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#46 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 01, 2012, 09:09:30 pm
... The first print of Colin Kirkus, how to climb... Or the 1978 climbers guide to pontesford rocks, Shropshire.

Offwidth

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1780
  • Karma: +60/-14
    • Offwidth
#47 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 04, 2012, 09:54:52 pm
Wappy Spring guidelet, somewhere in Staffs I think. I'd be amazed if more than a handful of folk have heard of it.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#48 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 04, 2012, 10:10:03 pm
I've got the beginnings of an attempt to document my favourite eliminates at Henry Price.

tregiffian

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 277
  • Karma: +5/-1
  • Struggling
#49 Re: Your Most Obscure Guidebook
October 09, 2012, 10:44:30 am
Please, has anyone seen, owned or heard of a guide to the Palisades along the Hudson above NY? The word is that access is denied but there may be something from underground ??????

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal