[Lund]

'Training' would be stretching it a bit.
Any advice appreciated, ta.

Stretch before and after your sessions.

There's no SCIENCE behind the claim that stretching alleviates muscle soreness, i.e. that stretching will help you recover faster so that you don't ache.

There's some that says it doesn't work:

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/14651858.CD004577.pub2/abstract;jsessionid=6158123D79A366DE2E6D944F532C4EDA.d03t02

I would say... that the reason you hurt is because you're overdoing it.

Training regimes include a "foundation" period at the start, and one of the reasons for this IIRC is to make it so that when you do the actual training you're fit enough for your body to take it.

Perhaps... you're not fit enough for your climbing habits?  You might benefit from some intense general conditioning training for a few weeks, so that when you're done you can go back to your climbing and not hurt so much and thus enjoy it more.

I doubt very much that eating protein, replacing muscle glycogen, etc. is going to be a magic bullet.  It won't hurt ... but it won't fix it.  Only hard work will do that.  Soz.

[cofe]

I've clearly not been explicit enough about how relatively easy going my wall sessions are. I'm not interested in 'training' either, I realised some time ago my body can't handle it. I'll follow up some of the advice here and see how it goes over the next few weeks.

[tommytwotone]

NB: this is the stuff I mentioned on Twitter...might make no difference but you could get hold of a small pot and see:

http://www.dolphinfitness.co.uk/en/usn-recover-xcell-2kg/18136/?o=orange&ladid=uk

[mrjonathanr]

It'd be cheaper to go online to MyProtein buy 2.5kg whey protein, 2.5kg oats and for less than £30 you have twice as much of the same basic thing - assimilable protein and carb. Add vitamin pill if you like. (or 1kg +1kg for £15)

[Lund]

[edited to remove poorly sourced and wrong discussion on protein shakes...]

Cofe, my point was this (which you may have got already):

* I'm guessing that you ache and are sore/stiff after climbing.
* I'm also guessing that you don't nail it, and you aren't an "elite athlete", exactly.
* I think you ache because your body is complaining that you've done too much.

You may protest "but I'm not doing anything!".  You are.  You are doing a resistance exercise.  This puts your body under strain.  It hurts as a result.  There are only three options at this point.

1. Stop doing it.  (This means giving up climbing.  When you get to 80, this may be your only option.  Or after a savage injury for example.  Take up tiddlywinks, or swimming, or bowls.)

2. Put up with it.  (AKA MTFU.)

3. Train - do something that you don't necessarily want to do, in order to make your body fitter and stronger - so that you ARE capable of doing what you want without it hurting, in the medium term.

To take an easier example, lets tale Bob.  Bob is a guy who likes rugby.  And beer and pie.  He's a bit on the heavy side.  When he's young, there's no issue - he just gets on with it.  When he gets older though, the matches start getting a bit much, and his knee starts to give him jyp.  He's carrying a lot of weight on it, and repeated abuse is making it sore.  He can either: keep going until his knee packs in, quit totally, or switch positions and lose weight so that he can keep playing for another ten years before his knee does pack in.

I could be totally off page and barking up the wrong tree.  Soz if so.

[tomtom]

I've clearly not been explicit enough about how relatively easy going my wall sessions are. I'm not interested in 'training' either, I realised some time ago my body can't handle it. I'll follow up some of the advice here and see how it goes over the next few weeks.

I reccommend weighted dead hangs for three, 2 hour sessions every day as per the LagersLopez training plan. Don't forget to mix your bannana milk with 1/2 litre of cod liver oil to keep everything running freely (Knee pads optional).



First couple of attempts after a lay off always hurt a bit more..

[edit for the grammar polices]

[andy_e]

go's

 

Is it true that green tea can reduce aching?

[tomtom]

go's

 

Is it true that green tea can reduce aching?

Fixed. Second, yes - if you make a big vat of it and dip your tired limbs into it.

[Nibile]

Ditto. A very warm bath is a blessing for both body and soul.
I once stayed at the camping in Claro, just before Cresciano, and hey have a jacuzzi. Every night I'd spend there half an hour, in very hot water getting a massage, and I bouldered five days in a row without aching at all.

[andy_e]

A very warm bath is a blessing for both body and soul.

  plus I have a lot of Bryson still to read.

[Probes]

A wheelie bin of ice and water, jump in the bugger for 10 mins! 

Cant remember who it was, maybe that Lacey fella, the heptathelete, the one who was falling to bits used to do it I think....   

[shark]

Ditto. A very warm bath is a blessing for both body and soul.
I once stayed at the camping in Claro, just before Cresciano, and hey have a jacuzzi. Every night I'd spend there half an hour, in very hot water getting a massage, and I bouldered five days in a row without aching at all.

The new Sharkmobile has heated seats and I have taken to turning them up to the max on the journey back from the crag as it makes my back virtually ache-free the following morning.

[andy_e]

Does it also make you feel like you've pissed yourself?

[shark]

Does it also make you feel like you've pissed yourself?

That's the one 

[Nibile]

The pros of having a paid job.
When I win the lottery, the first thing I'll get - after a yellow Lamborghini Countach and some 5.10 Hornet - will be a SPA constantly at my will.
Driving back home after yet another 8b+ (how can people find this hard, I'll think), I'll phone my private phisio and she'll get everything ready for me.
Bye bye soreness, hello happiness.

[tomtom]

When I win the lottery, the first thing I'll get - after a yellow Lamborghini Countach and some 5.10 Hornet - will be a SPA constantly at my will.

I wouldnt reccomend the Lambo.. great for crusing the strip, but really uncomfortable after a tough bouldering session (seats too hard and tricky to get in and out of) - no room to put a decent mat either..

Kind of like wearing your hornets for going to the shop..

[Jim]

I think I may be 'Bob'

Heated seats, use to have these in the Lexus, they were dynamite.
I don't get why people they think they've pissed themselves with heated seats. Maybe they've pissed their pants too much previously?

[Sasquatch]

The harder the wiorkout, the longer it takes to recover.  It can be harder by being longer or by being more intense.  Either way it will take longer to recover.  If it's taking two full days off to recover, then cut either the intensity of volume down and you will recover faster.  If you cut it down low enough or vary it correctly, you can climb every day.  It's all about understanding the recovery for each workout. 

Also you have to be attentive to what other activities you're doing that stress the body and add to the recovery time.  For example, If I go boulder a a roadside place with no hiking, I will recover faster than going to the place where there's an hour hard hike in and out because my body also has to recover from the hiking. 

[SA Chris]

Train for the hiking?

[andy_e]

I milked up yesterday and feel fine today!

[shark]

I milked up yesterday and feel fine today!

Lactastic

[tomtom]

I milked up yesterday and feel fine today!

Calciyummy!

[SA Chris]

I "milked up" yesterday and feel fine today!

Fnarr fnarr

[psychomansam]

I can't be fucked to read the thread, but the best way to recover from a training session is to drink skimmed milk before the session and then again after.
Have protein in your system when it's needed, not just afterwards when it's already half given up on the idea of recovery.

There are studies for this. Google knows the truth

[Johnny Brown]

Or why not go the whole hog and have colostrum?