[SA Chris]

I've just got back from 6 weeks big-walling in Kyrgyzstan.

As an aside I'd love to hear more about that.

[Ally Smith]

None of these have bony cruxes and feature mostly nice holds:

This just seems to read like a list of routes you've done in the last 6mths rather than those without crimps:

Mussel Beach, soft 8a - LPT (after the start) - Eh? I crimped the majority of holds on the headwall.
The Sting, soft 7c+ - The Diamond - Same, have you forgotten the 3 finger crimp to start the run-out?
Stiff Upper Lip, soft 8a - Pigeon's Cave - Agreed, no crimps; it'll just hurt your shoulders (or for me, a knee) instead.
Never Get Out of the Boat, 8a - Diamond (after the first few moves) - two crimps with bad footholds. Doesn't seem to fit the bill.
Skip of Fools 8a+ - Diamond (after the start) - Very boney start

Release the Hounds 7c - A55 crags - Perfect, not a crimp in sight

[petejh]

I can't believe someone suggested Mussel Beach; i'd be wary of some of these recommendations Ian! Plus a lot of them won't be dry for ages. Things that probably will be dry in the next few months:

The Madness Reigns at Dyserth, Last Crusade at Llandulas, both roofs with big holds.

Gosh.. suggesting a route that one considers not very crimpy seems to be like suggesting a grade, and makes people need to refute.
If Mussel Beach is a particularly crimpy/tweaky route then I'm Steve McClure. 

My idea of a crimpy route - Face Race/La Boheme/Rompsville LPT, Body Torque/Mayfair/Axle Attack Pen Trwyn - in fact most things on Pen Trwyn,  Obsession Malham (only route I've done there), anything at the Tor, I wouldn't consider The Ashes at Kilnsey as crimpy even though there are one or two larger crimps on the hard bits.

iacoops isn't injured atm, he just has a talent for it.

He should be fine then.

This just seems to read like a list of routes you've done in the last 6mths rather than those without crimps:

Mussel Beach, soft 8a - LPT (after the start) - Eh? I crimped the majority of holds on the headwall.
The Sting, soft 7c+ - The Diamond - Same, have you forgotten the 3 finger crimp to start the run-out?
Never Get Out of the Boat, 8a - Diamond (after the first few moves) - two crimps with bad footholds. Doesn't seem to fit the bill.
Skip of Fools 8a+ - Diamond (after the start) - Very boney start

That's because I can't remember beyond the last 6 months. Who are you?

I think of the headwall on Mussel Beach as large crimps, yes, but not bony or especially fingery, just normal climbing. Ditto The Sting (oh the sting). Maybe I've climbed on Pen Trwyn too much though.

[JacobJacob]

I reckon you'd be fine on Raindogs, lots smallish edges which are totally draggable and nothing *too* small. More importantly it might actually be dry! Come to Yorkshire!!!

(Although given your propensity for finger injuries you may well be banned from climbing on my board...)

[i_a_coops]

Thanks guys. Surely there's some stuff north of the border, surely the Anvil has something on it and I hear they bolt rock other than limestone up there? 

[north_country_boy]

Thanks guys. Surely there's some stuff north of the border, surely the Anvil has something on it and I hear they bolt rock other than limestone up there? 

Dunkeld isn't that crimpy really, lots of nice big pinches and blocky sidepulls etc...

Anvil is crimpy, either at 45degrees or 15degrees.

[Andy F]

I would hazard a guess that the only dry sports routes at Malham are on the upper tier. So absolutely none of them fit the criteria 

[i_a_coops]

I would hazard a guess that the only dry sports routes at Malham are on the upper tier. So absolutely none of them fit the criteria 

I'm not that fussed about routes being dry at the minute, I was just looking for some routes to get psyched for for the next year or so (especially given how unfit I probably am right now). There looks to be some very steep stuff at Beeston Tor too that I'm keen to check out when it dries out next year, in addition to most of the suggestions above.

Also all things are relative, I am very psyched for Raindogs and a lot of the routes that have been mentioned thatpeople have pointed out do have crimps - it's just good to have some suggestions from the end of the uk razorblade-jug spectrum that I (and presumably some others, although I meet surprisingly few of them) vastly prefer!

Some slightly easier suggestions from me:

Rose Line is an awesome looking 7b+ at Dinas Rock, appears to be entirely on jugs and jams. I've not done it.
Mouth Breather at Swanage is really good at 7c if your fingers fit the fingerlock, otherwise it is painful and minging (ask Three Nine).
I thought Pride Evans Locker (7c+)at Cheddar was bloody excellent and on really nice holds, I climbed the crux section is entirely open . the House Burning Down headwall has some non-ming crimps that would be jugs at the Tor.
Wilma (7a/+) at Torbryan is a bloody awesome route with really nice holds for the grade. (It's Barney Rubble linked into the top of Boogie on Down, god knows why it's not in the new Rockfaxes)

[i_a_coops]

Any of the routes at Pigeon's Cave?