Pads aren't new, theyre just new to the uk scene. Americans have been using them for a long time...
Yes, I fell out of the knee bar! My penultimate session saw me shake myself out of this infamous resting position. The knee bar, although a good rest for the arms (one at a time, I don’t know how people manage to take both arms off!), required a lot of tension on my part to stay on and I slowly slipped out of it from pure fatigue. A frustrating place to fail.While on this subject I feel I should clarify for those who are interested: I did use the knee bar and I did use a knee pad, as has been done in other recent ascents. This was always my plan but in addition I am maid of honour at my sister’s wedding in a week’s time and my dress sits just above the knee, a small gender specific consideration….
Is that what all the fuss is about? Hardly looks like the most amazing place to recover.
While on this subject I feel I should clarify for those who are interested: I did use the knee bar and I did use a knee pad, as has been done in other recent ascents. This was always my plan but in addition I am maid of honour at my sister’s wedding in a week’s time and my dress sits just above the knee, a small gender specific consideration….
I've got two projects on the Orme that require a rubber kneepad on both knees. How times have changed...
As for down-grading - as my limited knowledge of sport climbing goes, I didn't think any route graded 8b or harder in the Peak got downgraded until either Keith Sharples redpointed it, or a blond speccy climbers from Lancashire outsighted it.....
I thought Reevsey was the limus test for downgrading
Quote I thought Reevsey was the limus test for downgrading Think it's The Shark these days
No biggie. Seb used a multitude of proto knee pads down cheedale cornice in the early 90's and it still took him yonks to get up K3.
Seeing as no one is piling in with a downgrade, me and Keith are clubbing together for a pair of kneepads.
I've never used pads so can't comment on that. But the kneebar sequence has always been the obvious way to climb this route. The fact that a lot of people (read men who can't bend their legs) in Sheffield can't work out sequences to save their lives isn't everyone else's fault.
Quote from: RobinB on September 07, 2012, 04:16:39 pmQuote I thought Reevsey was the limus test for downgrading Think it's The Shark these daysThat's why I started the thread. No point getting on Mecca if its going to be downgraded. Seeing as no one is piling in with a downgrade, me and Keith are clubbing together for a pair of kneepads.
No point getting on Mecca if its going to be downgraded.
"If you weren't aware of it, the extent to which you got a kneebar in and rested on it caused a bit of a stir at the time." - Shark
“So in short I think that the regularity of kneebar usage up until very recently has been rarer than you imply” – Shark
Quote from: Baron on September 07, 2012, 07:21:26 amNo biggie. Seb used a multitude of proto knee pads down cheedale cornice in the early 90's and it still took him yonks to get up K3.I hope you see the irony in using K3 and kneepads in a thread about grades and kneebars! If you don't then its a terrible example.