Also I'm a bit confused. Are you looking at doing:Repeater 1 - holds 6 and 10,switching holds each 7 second hang? 10 min restRepeater 2 - Holds 7 and 8, switching holds each 7 second hang? 10 min restRepeater 3 - Holds 6 and 3, switching holds each 7 second hang?Or:Repeater 1 - LH 6 RH 10, 3min restRepeater 2 - LH 10 RH 6, 3min restRepeater 3 - LH 6 RH 10, 3min restRepeater 4 - LH 10 RH 6, 3min restRepeater 5 - LH 6 RH 10, 3min restRepeater 6 - LH 10 RH 6, 3min restRest 10 min and repeat above for other grip combos.
"There is something important that I want to remind all of you.Climbers with:- a low or medium level of finger strength: >15 seconds from a 24mm-deep edge, <40 seconds from a 20mm edge and <10 seconds from a 10mm edge;- between 2-4 years of systematic climbing practice: > 4 climbing days/week,- and/or those who haven't previously undergone intensive finger training or are younger than 18-20 and older than 16...get significant results using medium intensity methods WITHOUT the need of using ADDED WEIGHT, because their body weight is enough to provide the load needed to induce positive adaptation.Furthermore, based on Morrison and Schöffl (2007) there is really no place for the campus board, or the use of additional weights in deadhangs, in anyone under the age of roughly 18-20 years old."
"-Climbers with a low or medium level of finger strength, and/or those who haven't previously undergone intensive finger training, get significant results using mediu...m intensity methods without the need of using added weight, because their body weight is enough to provide the load needed to induce positive adaptation." ("Why progression?" entry); -"Now regarding the use of methods without added weight: they are indicated for lower and medium level climbers, and I guess for you too, because you still don't reach the 8-second mark on a 10 mm edge. With them you can certainly improve a lot, and they are what's used during the first phases of training on Progression. But once you have consolidated the basics (more than 35-40'' on 20 mm or 15-20'' on 10 mm), I suggest you use added weight and edges of 20 or 18 mm" (in: Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (II));- "It is desirable to use the easiest possible intensity, volume, rest periods and method that are enough to yield gains. It is more effective to slowly increase the difficulty of methods and intensity level than to progress by leaps or very fast, because the long term progress will be greater and it will be safer when it comes to avoiding injuries" (in (in: Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (I))- "However recently I have observed that the lower level climbers can equally benefit from performing only the small edge method. This is because their body weight provides enough stimuli to induce gains; it is also in line with the recommendation of using at every stage the easiest method and intensity that still provokes adaptation to provide a sustained long-term development instead of a faster, short-term one." (article published in UKClimbing.com)"
see how this fingerboarding has translates to real world performance.
Quote from: Styx on August 28, 2012, 06:37:56 pm see how this fingerboarding has translates to real world performance.I can already give you an answer, the answer that none of us like: "not very well". Or at least not as one would expect. You'll probably feel much better on some holds, but the road to overall climbing progression is much harder, sadly. Remember that unless you take care of it, core tension suffers a lot from prolonged fingerboarding. Anyway, I've never met a climber who thinks his/her fingers are too strong, so... Back to the fingerboard!!!
