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The Gate to Archangel is Open!
21 June 2013, 10:51 pm

A couple of years ago, Jared Lavacque decided to try to produce a film about the bouldering in Alaska, particularly in Hatcher Pass.  An old friend of his, Chris Alstrin,...

Source: AK Climber

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More New Problems in Hatcher Pass, and The Final Days of Filming!
27 June 2013, 2:11 am

On Saturday, David and I headed up to Archangel with plans to meet Chris B and do a bit of bouldering, then meet Chris Alstrin and Jared to get some...

Source: AK Climber

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Captain Cook State Recreational Area
3 July 2013, 5:13 pm

I have been meaning to write about Captain Cook State Recreational Area for sometime now. Those of you with shiny new guidebooks (perhaps no longer shiny) may have noticed the...

Source: AK Climber

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Cleaning Up Projects at Byron
15 July 2013, 12:41 am

I headed out on Thursday with Tanya to show her the bouldering at Byron and to explore the area a bit more.  While I’ve had a few very good days...

Source: AK Climber

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New Problems with an Old Friend in Hatcher Pass
23 July 2013, 1:36 am

On Sunday, I had the chance to get out with one of my first climbing partners, Dan Kryger.  Dan moved out-of-state about 8-9 years ago, but he  was a major...

Source: AK Climber

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A Quick Update
19 August 2013, 12:00 am

This’ll be quick and short.  In the last few weeks there has been some nice new stuff cleaned and climbed and some exploration going on. For starters, about two weeks […]

Source: AK Climber

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Rain, Rain, and More Rain – But Still Getting New Stuff Done
30 August 2013, 12:20 am

Last Saturday, we headed up to the wonderland talus to continue development.  Before I got there, David had cleaned a couple of new lines that we both climbed, while I […]

Source: AK Climber

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Still raining, but looks like we’re gonna get some sun
12 September 2013, 3:34 am

It’s been raining.  It’s still raining.  I pray they weathermen are right that it’s going to stop raining. While this has certainly slowed the search for new boulders and made […]

Source: AK Climber

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Book Release Party at Taproot!
21 August 2013, 4:28 am



Source: AK Climber

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Back to Archangel Again
21 September 2013, 8:52 pm

I feel as though my life never has enough time.  I wonder sometimes: Is this feeling due to my insatiable desire to do more, experience more, live more? Is it some idea put in my head by others that what I have is not enough? Is it the way I was raised? Or if it is simply down to the constraints imposed by my life by family, work, etc.?

David hitting the jug on Humpty Dumpty-v4 Enough time wasted on philosophical thoughts, on to business.  Last weekend the sun came back out and I headed up to Archangel with David.  I had my sights on one thing – The Fairangel Arete Project.  But first we needed to warm up a bit, so we headed back into the wonderland talus to climb a few problems that we had previously cleaned.  We started off climbing a really good dihedral problem Jeff Cleason and I had climbed back in 2003-4 and called Humpty Dumpty.

David topping out on Humpty Dumpty-v4 Apparently we hadn’t cleaned it as well as we thought because Drew and Will re-found and re-cleaned it last year calling it Top Gun and being convinced it hadn’t been done.  We then headed over to a new line David cleaned in the rain about 3 weeks ago. on the back side of the Looking Glass cave, which ended up being a fairly nice v2.  We then headed over to a couple of other lines David had done a few weeks back including a really good new line David added called Rabbit Hole – v7.

A quick word about this little area.  So far I know of 25 problems from v0 to v11 that have been done  in the lower talus.  In amongst these 25 problems are an additional 25-35 more projects from v0 to vhard to be cleaned and climbed.  Some of these have been partially cleaned, but over the last month when we’ve been up there, everything has been pretty wet so we haven’t really been able to get alot of these cleaned and climbed.  Additionally some of the problems are of good height and the last thing you want at 15-18 feet is wet slimy holds.

Once we were done warming up it was off to the arete!!!!  I’ve been dreaming about this problem and have been itching to get a good day of work on it in reasonable conditions.  My first day on it last fall it was snowing on me, so I basically could only do the first two moves  before all the holds were wet.  They felt really hard, but everything was wet, so it was hard to gauge.  My second day on it earlier this summer with Jamie was an overcast but warm day and the holds felt pretty good.  I was able to quickly figure out the rest of the moves and was feeling psyched to start trying to send, but I felt like the right thing to hold off and give Jamie a chance to get the FA.  Jamie has spent a considerable amount of effort (probably between 6 and 10 days of work) over two different trips to Alaska trying this project, and hasn’t managed it yet.  His first trip he was hampered by really wet conditions, and this trip he fell off the very last move before the topout.   My third day out was a few days after Jamie left, and it was a scorcher.  It may have been in the low 80’s and the arete was baking in the sun all day.  Needless to say, but not exactly the best conditions for hard climbing, so I basically did the first move a few times and called it a day.  So far I had sort of three days on it, but none where I was really in the mode of work and send with good conditions.  Saturday was good though and I was excited to see how it went.

BETA warning:

The arete can be broken down into three sections.  It starts with a series of three short but powerful compression moves to get yourself set for a big move up the arete.  This section is probably in the v9/10 range.  For the second section, Jamie and I have slightly different beta: I make a big throw with my right hand for a good hold high on the arete, while Jamie make a big lockoff move to a small crimp below the good hold then bumps up to the good hold.  Then you have to piano match the good hold, and reach left to an undercling pinch on the right arete. The throw match and undercling is probably in the v9 range again This sets you up for the final section.  You make another big move up with you right hand to a good sloper (Jamie fell after sticking this), squeeze hard with your feet, match and then bump left to a sloper on the lip.  Match the lip on some rails, reach left to a good rail over the lip, then mantel and press out the finish.  The section to the lip is probably in the v8 range, but can feel really finicky if you get your body wrong.  Throughout all of these is a complex series of heel hooks, toe hooks, toe scums, and techy flagging with your feet and legs.

Jamie on the opening moves of the Fairangel Arete Project. I started off working different sections and trying to make links to put it all together.  I was able to link from hitting the good hold on the arete, through the match and to the top, and I was able to link from the bottom to the throw, but never quite stuck it.  I worked through this quite few times before I realized I was getting something wrong on my body position for the throw.  After working out what was wrong, I had the throw dialed again, but was too spent to piece it together.  I was very happy with my progress though, and the conditions kept getting better and better as it cooled off.

The next morning we headed back up there and cleaned and climbed 4 new lines above the arete (all in the v1-v4 range and really really good – the kind you climb over and over because they’re such fun….), before I headed back down to try the arete again.  The sun was back out in all it’s glory, and the arete was baking again.  Between the hot holds, hot weather, and me being pretty tired from the day before, I didn’t do very well, but I did keep working the moves and feeling more and more solid in general. Hopefully I can get 1 or 2 more days of good conditions before the end of the season as I feel like I’m close to linking the pieces together.

David and Reidun spent the rest of the afternoon bouldering, while I headed back to town early to spend some time with my family.

 

Source: AK Climber

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Archangel’s Hardest Problem – The Sheriff
23 September 2013, 7:42 pm

Driving up to Archangel on a clear fall morning. I took the day off on Friday and headed up to Archangel to get back on the Fairangel Arete Project.  The weather forecast was for cold weather and clear skies, so it was looking like conditions would be perfect.   I got up there and met Kris Klein around 9:00 and made the hike back in to the Arete. It had snowed Wednesday night and Thursday morning, and had been well below freezing overnight, but the skies were clear as I drove up, and the mountains were topped with termination dust. Termination dust is what we call the first bits of snow as they hit the peaks and work their way down, slowly terminating our Alaska summer.

Looking out over Fairangel Valley from Tunnel Vision Gap. This is taken from the base of the Arete. We warmed up in the area, then I started working on the arete.  I re-climbed the top section and cleaned and chalked the holds.  Everything was mostly dry, but oddly damp from the snow and frost. The first couple of goes felt really off as I remembered how hard you have to pull with your heel to make the second move, and I continued to get fully warmed up.

The day was clear and cold, and fog slowly rolled in through the lower valley.  At one point it looked like we might get snowed on with clouds coming up the valley and over the mountain peaks, but thankfully, we stayed in a perfect little pocket on dry conditions.

On my third try, I managed to stick the big 4th move and continued through the match to the last hard move, but when I got there, I could barely hang on, much less make the huge reach off the sloper.  It’s amazing how a move can feel so easy in isolation, but after doing 7 moves to get there it feels impossible.

Kris and I hiked further up the valley to give ourselves a bit longer of a break. Meanwhile, Kris was working a v6/7 on a small boulder just left of the arete.   After working out the bottom moves, there’s a hard upper move to finish off the problem.  Kris was also able to do that move by itself and it felt easy, but by the time he got there, he just couldn’t pull quite hard enough.  We traded goes back and forth trying to make sure we were resting enough.  I managed to get to that same last move another 5 times, but only on one go did I really feel close to getting the last sloper.   At some point we decided to hike further up the valley to check it and give our fingers and bodies a break.  I was also hoping to check out Jamie’s new problem Jelly Belly v9/10, which is somewhere further up the valley, but I didn’t find it.  Maybe another day.  At about 2pm, the sun dropped and was no longer on the slopers on the arete project and I could tell the friction was a bit better, but my body was worked and I just had very little left.  Kris and I decided to pack up and head back as we were both done.  I decided to give it “one last go”.  I was tired, I had 4 holes in my right hand from the dyno, and I had no expectations of doing it.  I just wanted to get a little bit more muscle memory for next time.

Sticking the Dyno (4th move) on The Sheriff I hit the first three moves perfect without having to adjust at all then hit the sloper wrong for the big dyno, but managed to adjust on the inswing and stick.  Feeling completely worked, I struggled through the match and got ready for the last big move.  For no reason I can think of, I changed my sequence just a bit.  Instead of just locking off for the big move to the sloper, I found myself knee scumming and bumping my right hand up the arete.  Next thing I knew I had stuck the high right hand sloper.  I took a deep breath and refocused.  A quick half match and a hop for the top, my feet swung out slowly, with my right hand slowly peeling off the sloper as I swung.  Then I stopped and started swinging back in.  My foot stabbed instinctively for the good foot.  A quick mantel and I was standing on the top.  I let out a scream and whooped with joy.

Hatcher Pass had it’s first v12 - The Sheriff, and I had finally achieved a lifetime goal – to boulder v12.  I did one problem last year that I believe is v12, but no one else has ever really tried it, so I have no way to know.  I had come close on the Mandala in the winter, but no luck.  This problem has been tried and worked extensively by a few other strong guys, and seems pretty definite at v12.

 

The big reach to the sloper. I didn’t stick it this go despite being within an inch of the hold.  

 

Source: AK Climber

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Travel – Checking out Horse Pens 40, Alabama
15 October 2013, 2:27 am

My son Elijah working a fun problem near the lookout. A couple of weeks ago I headed south to visit Family in New Orleans and Alabama.  I’ve been hearing about the quality of southeast bouldering for a while now, so I was pretty excited to check it out.  As this was mainly a family trip, and not a climbing trip, I was hoping to get out twice if possible, and make the best of what time I could get.

My first opportunity was a late night session at Horse Pens 40.  I showed up after dark, without a guidebook, and no one to climb with.  Not the ideal way to explore a new area, but if I wanted to get two days in, this was my chance.  I checked in at the HP 40 general store, rented a pad, and headed out to see what I could find.  I’d seen quite a few pictures of the area over the years and took a brief look at the guidebook at the store, so I thought I’d just look around and get on stuff that looked fun , but safe and doable.  I also asked the owner’s son to come out and check on me every 20-30 minutes to see that I wasn’t dead…

I had a headlamp and a lantern and set out exploring. As I left the store, I walked across a nice green lawn, past a stage, and down some steps and into a narrow gap.  The sandstone walls reared up around me and I couldn’t help but think how incredible this would look in the daytime, but also how easy it could be to get turned around or lost in the maze of boulders.  Everywhere I looked were incredible sculpted sandstone blocs.  As it happened one of the first boulders I ran into was the Millipede and Bumboy boulder.  I dropped the pad, and started warming up on Bumboy.

My wife trying a stout v2. Millipede is just behind her in the sun. I have to admit, I got spanked at first.  Bumboy is a v3, which should be a warmup for me and a grade I can’t even remember falling off of for well over a decade, but I was spit off over and over.  After about 5-6 failures, I decided to try my luck on Millipede.  It felt pretty well impossible for the first 3-4 goes.  I sat down and wondered what the heck was going on.  I normally have pretty good technique and have never really had any weaknesses, but these were completely shutting me down.

I rested and meditated for a bit and got back on.  This time I quit pulling and instead just held on.  I quickly walked up Millipede, and then went back and ran up Bumboy next go.  I realized two things: 1) I was used to crimping and to climb on these slopers, you don’t hold on with your fingertips, you hold on with your whole hand. 2)  You don’t pull on these holds, you hang on, and propel with you feet and body.  From that moment the rest of the night went much better.  I ended up climbing about 25-26 problems that night including many classics such as Slider, Mullitino, the Beach, Popeye, Boomslang, and more.

A couple of days later I headed back to Horse Pens with my wife, son, father in law and brother in law.  This time it was daytime, and it was truly incredible to see it in the light.  We warmed up in the area near Millipede and just climbed everything that looked interesting.  We still had no guidebook, so we just wandered around trying stuff that looked fun and had cool features.

 After the Millipede area, we hit the roadside area, then up to the area by the lookout, then back to the areas right next to the General store(Ten Pins, etc…).  Everyone climbed and everyone had a good time. The features and friction and aesthetics of the area were fantastic, and it would be hard to not enjoy the area. I tried almost everything I could find and ended up climbing about 30 more problems in total, doing quite a few stellar lines along the way.  In the end I was just wandering around without a pad or spotter just climbing lines that looked fun.  I’ve no idea how hard most of them were, and it didn’t matter.  They were fun, and I was out climbing in the sun…..

I’d love to come back later in the fall when the leaves are changing colors and it’s a bit cooler (it was in the 70′s while we were there).  I can only imagine the friction gets even better, and I would love to climb in the area when there are more people about.  I know there are a ton of small areas scattered around the south, and from what I’ve read/seen/heard, It seems like an area every climber should check out and spend some time.

Topping out on Hammerhead-v5 Some DWS near my In-laws place.  

Source: AK Climber

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Yes, I know How to Climb on Rope – Howl of the Damned FA
4 November 2013, 3:57 am

After finishing off The Sheriff and heading out-of-state for a couple of weeks to visit family, I thought for sure the outdoor climbing season was over. Fortunately, the weather gods had a different plan and  after one of the warmest October’s on record I found myself motivated to get on an old route Dan Kryger and I bolted along the Seward highway in around the 2001-2002 timeframe.   I’ve had various spells over the years where I’ve been incredibly close to sending, but never quite getting it done.  This fall I got out on it once in late August with Keenen and it felt pretty good, so it was on the back of my mind throughout the fall, and when the weather held in October I decided to go for it..  After a couple of days dialing in the beta, including a fall as high on the route as anyone should ever fall, today I managed my hardest route to date and the first ascent of Howl of the Damned - 13d/14a ish.

Here’s the raw footage of the send:

The reason for the long rest in the upper corner is because my fingers were all numb and I was trying to warm them up.  They stayed numb, so I just kept going.  They finally warmed up about an hour later while driving back into Anchorage.  I love manteling on crimps and smears when you can’t feel your fingers or toes, but at least the friction was good. :)

For those interested, the route is at Bird point to the right of Shriek of the Mutilated. 

Source: AK Climber

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Bouldering Outside in January In Alaska
28 January 2014, 2:13 am

This past Sunday David, Hunter and I snuck out for a recon trip to Hatcher Pass to see if anything might be climbable.  While it might seem a tad optimistic to go try to boulder in the middle of winter in Alaska, an unseasonably warm spell meant it could be possible.  We really only had a couple of options for boulders tall enough and accessible enough, although after going up there I’d have different characteristics to look for in a good winter boulder.  Mainly no sloping  down toward the problems from the top as it’ll drain and be a huge ice dam.

Skiing up Archangel Road in Midwinter After loading up and driving out, we got our skis on(David and Hunter on skate skis, me pulled by the dogs on touring skis) and headed up.  The first boulder we got to was the Aldershade boulder, which had quite a bit of snow on the top still, and was lightly draining down the steep face, and big ice flows down the lower angle faces.  Still it seemed like if you shoveled the top a bit, you could probably get the steep face dried and climbable.  Next up was Drive By, which was about the same.  Loads of snow, but as the boulder peaks right about Drive by and Rutted, if you shoveled it, you could probably dry it and such if you had a small heater (no blowtorching – it’s very bad for the rock).  We continued skiing up the road and checked out the Mr. Big boulder and Indianhead Boulders, which unfortunately both have all the wrong angles for winter.  Lots of snow and Ice, and probably not very reasonable to clear off.

Cleaning and drying the Roadside Boulder Last stop was the upper roadside boulder, and at this point we weren’t feeling very optimistic about the chances of climbing anything.  As turned the corner and could finally see the Diamond Area Boulders, I noticed Sweet Home Alaska might be climbable as a backup, although approaching would be tricky.  Finally we got to the Roadside boulder and out spirits picked up a fair bit.  It looked like we might be able to get something done on it.  I had brought a rope with in the hoped of cleaning the upper section of Mr. Big, so we tossed down a rope and proceeded to clean, dry and chalk Southwest Arete as it looked the driest and neither David or Hunter had been on it.  Once that was done, I slid the rope to the right to finish cleaning a couple of lines I’ve been eyeing for some time, but have never managed to get on.

Hunter on The Derelict-v5 As I was cleaning these, David put his shoes on and calmly flashed Southwest Arete-v6 with no warmup, which was impressive as the crux move is really tenuous and balancey.  Hunter also quickly dispatched Southwest Arete while I finished prepping the rightmost line.  I stepped on and did the new line, The Derelict-v5, which starts matched at the right end of the big sloping  rail and head up and right onto the face via a big move to a decent crimp.  While  cleaning and prepping this line, we looked at the possibility of a center line between The Derelict and Southwest Arete.  While David and Hunter worked out The Derelict, I proceeded to finish cleaning the center line and found what looked to be a really cool sequence.

Once the pads were arranged, I pulled on with a low left sloping crimp and a decent right hand pinch.  The opening move was a foot cutting throw to a good left hand hold.  What followed was an incredible sequence of almost everything you could look for in a boulder problem.  Crimp, Sloper, Pinch, Undercling, Sidepull, Highstep, Kneebar, Heelhook, backstep, tensiony moves, and outright dynamics hucks with a finishing jug at the lip.  I  topped out and was in absolute shock.  That was one of the best problems in Hatcher Pass, and it’s been sitting right by the road just waiting for nearly 2 decades.  I was euphoric.  David and Hunter sorted out the crux opening moves and topped out with the same feelings.  We couldn’t believe ow good the day turned out, and in the middle of January!  Ice Road Safari-v6 is one of the best problems in Hatcher Pass, and I’d put it on my Top 5 in Alaska list.

Me on Ice Road Safari-v6 After that we packed up and skied out, still unbelieving of the day we had just pulled off.

Happy as can be after a sweet day out bouldering in Alaska in January.

Source: AK Climber

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Conditions Update – The 2014 Season has Started!!!
14 May 2014, 3:19 am

Well, summer is officially here.  The grass is turning green, the trees have leaves, and the boulders/boulderers are slowly coming out of hibernation.  Sorry this update is a bit late, but here you go.  Starting from the south:

Kenai Peninsula – Fully melted out including the Anchor Point Boulder and Captain Cook State Park.

Byron – I haven’t been down yet, nor have I heard from anyone who has, but I imagine the Erotics boulder is clear and likely the Arkenstone, and the Ego/Eggo Areas.  It’s probably a VERY good time to get on the tall slabs at The Allspark Boulders.

Bird Creek – Has been clear for several months now…..

Service Boulder – Clear and lots of mosquitos. A few muddy spots on the trail and around the boulder, but generally good. Be warned that the granite gets really slick in the heat/sun, so things could feel really hard.

Hunter Biking up Powerline Pass to Ptarmigan. Photo Courtesy of Stephen Arwine Ptarmigan – The trail is dry and rideable for about 2/3’s of the way to the bowl.  The trail boulders are clear and dry, as are most of the bowl boulders.  There’s still snow in parts of the bowl and expect to have to cross some snow to get to the boulders, but it should clear within a week or two if this keeps up.

Frostbite Boulders – Clear

Archangel Valley – The gates closed, but the road is walkable at least  to Aldershade, Drive By, and the Jurassic Boulder.  Aldershade is great, Drive by has a puddle under it , and Jurassic Boulder is fine.  The Indianhead boulders are also melted out and dry.  Not sure about the upper valley at the end of the road, but I know Lang has been up climbing on the Diamond, so I’d guess the roadside boulder is clear, and maybe some of the monolith and diamond boulders.  I’d imagine routes on Snowbird slab and the Monolith are great right now.

Looking at the Aldershade Boulder from the Aldershade Parking Photo courtesy of Jared Lavacque Independence Mine – Still pretty snowy, but melting fast.  Crucifix Boulder is most likely clear, but it would be a real pain to get to.  Hold off for another 1-2 weeks, unless you’re really desperate.

Chickaloon Boulders – Clear and already getting too hot.

Long Lake - Clear and already getting too hot.

Weiner Lake - Clear and already getting too hot.

Lions Head - Clear and already getting too hot.

Source: AK Climber

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Best Problems in Southcentral Alaska?
19 June 2014, 1:23 am

On the way back from bouldering up in Hatcher Pass back in January (After doing Ice Road Safari), David, Hunter and I were talking and we thought Ice Road Safari might be in the top 5 Boulder Problems in South-central Alaska.  We started talking about what we’d list as top 5 and why.  We each had different lists, but there were a handful of problems that made each of our lists.  That got me thinking, so I decided I’d poll some of my friends and ask what they thought were the top 5 problems in Alaska.

In total, I got responses from 10 people, so a total of 50 votes.  Here are how the problems stacked up in the end, only including those problems with more than 1 vote:

Problem                                          Grade            Total Votes              Area

1     Straighten Up & Fly Right             v6                      4                          Hatchers – Diamond North

2     Drive By                                             v10                     4                          Hatchers – Roadside

3     Kshatriya                                            v7                     4                           Weiner Lake

4     Indianhead Arete                             v3                      3                          Hatchers – Indianhead

5     Shadow of Time                                v4                      3                          Byron – The Goods

6     Ice Road Safari                                  v6                     3                          Hatchers – Upper Roadside

7     Muffin Man                                        v8                     2                          Hatchers – Diamond South

Let me know what you think in the comments.

#1 Straighten Up & Fly Right  

#2 Drive By # 3 Kshatriya – Photo Courtesy of Jon Borland

#4 Indianhead Arete #5 David Funatake on Shadow of Time-v4 at Byron Glacier #6 Ice Road Safari  

#7 Muffin Man  

Source: AK Climber

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2013 Season Recap – Sorry it’s Late
25 June 2014, 1:16 am

The season is now in full swing, so I figured I should post all of the updates from last year that I’ve been sitting on forever.  I was hoping to get some more pics in the post, but that’s been a computer challenge for some reason…. If you know of more development I don’t have listed, please let me know and I’ll get it added in.

Byron: With most of the prime lines at Byron being plucked over the last two seasons, the remaining lines were either tall and heady, really hard, or both. Using the early season snow in April to help with the landing, Keenen established Dirty Little Mistress-v3 up the right arête of the Erotics Boulder. Later in the season, but while still enjoying the comfort of a snow landing, visiting Coloradan Jamie Emerson grabbed the first ascent of the Arkenstone Arête to establish Smaug-v8. David was able to knock off a long-standing project on the Jungle Boulder establishing Shere Khan-v8. A little bit later in the season, I came back and linked a sit start on the left Erotics arête into Glacial Erotics creating Co-dependency-v7. The straight up the arête still needs to go though. I was too chicken after an early season fall off the top into the snow bowl, so I’m waiting for spring. Up at the Lorax Boulder two other projects were completed: The Truffala Tree-v8 (just right of The Once-ler) and Thneed-v6 (just right of Fire Escape).

Ptarmigan: David spent a bit of time developing up near Ptarmigan in June and July. First up was knocking out the problems on the Angel Wing Boulder in the bowl. He climbed all except one of the problems listed in the guidebook as projects in addition to adding a new line, all between v1-v4.

He also did some exploring further up the trail past the Ptarmigan bowl developing a new boulder a the base of the Wedge, a small area at the base of Avalanche Peak, and a new small area dubbed Goat Haven, putting up about 20 problems in total.

Lion Head: Early in the season David spent some time bushwhacking and exploring the area along the river below the south side of the Lion Head near Matanuska Glacier. After a two trips out there only 8 problems had been done, with possibly 30 – 40 remaining to be done. The hike in is pretty rough going and takes about an hour of bushwhacking to get to the first of the boulders which are spread out along a talus field between the river and the main wall.

Hatcher Pass: Hatcher’s saw quite a bit of development over the summer, starting as soon as the gate opened in June and continuing until the snow fell in early October.

Archangel Valley: Diamond South: This area saw quite a bit of development and if there had been a bit less rain, it would likely have seen even more. A new/old area called the Muffin Garden was cleaned and developed at the south end of the Muffin Man meadow. This area stretches from the boulders at the south end of meadow up to about the Captain Jack Boulder. David spent quite a bit of time cleaning in the area, which is now a fun place for easy-moderate bouldering with about 15 more problems in the v0-v5 range. Favorites include Beef Nectar v3 and Happy Endings V2.

The low start to The Barstool (Barstool Bear-v10) was also climbed by Jamie Emerson during his visit, although the sit start still remains as a project adding one incredibly hard move to the low start.

A couple of new lines were done near Captain Jack: Alaskan Amber-v6 is a highball on the same boulder, and House Bitters-v7 is in a cave just past the highball. Further up the gully a couple of more easy lines were cleaned, one was a really nice crimpy face climb Dan Kryger cleaned and climbed that went at v1. Five more problems were done on the “David’s Cave” boulder between v0-v2.

Diamond North: The big items of note in this area were the new additions to the Zen boulder. Clarity -v4 is a top-notch problem up the tall East face of the Zen boulder. The arête (Breakdown-v7/v9sd) was also climbed, albeit following the good seam right to the easy topout. Someone should definitely go back and clean and look at finishing straight up as this would be a really proud line. Zen was also tried quite a bit and the consensus is that v7 is pretty sandbagged, and it’s likely closer to the v9 range.

In addition to these, David developed 4 new problems (v1,v2,v5, and v5) just behind the Crackhead Boulder. I also finished developing a boulder from last year adding a new v5 and a new v6 down in a pit about 100 feet north of Crackhead.

Fairangel Valley: A good deal of development went on in Fairangel valley, particularly in the Wonderland Talus on the south side of the valley. David was the first to get in on the action this year and was inspired by the area putting up a new lines despite the constant rain and wet moss late in the season. His best contributions in the area were probably the outstanding Rabbit Hole-v7+, Aether Arete, and Angel is a Centerfold-v4 in addition quite a few other problems. I also got in on the action helping to clean more lines with the proudest being a project scoped out by Jamie Emerson while he was visiting, Through the Looking Glass-v10/11. Visiting climbers Flann, Peter, and Shannon also did some cleaning and developing in this area, although I haven’t tracked down the details for their stuff yet.

Tunnel Vision Gully: This area saw quite a bit of traffic, and we’ve still only scratched the surface. I think once everything has been cleaned, this will be the largest and densest bouldering spot in Hatchers. David and I added about 20 problems in total with the highlights being Mantelslab Right-v3, Say Ahh-v4, The Prodigal Son-v1, and The Sheriff-v12.

Upper Fairangel: The only one I heard about from this area is a new problem near the upper lake put up by Jamie Emerson called Jelly Belly-v9/10.

Monolith: My first day up to Hatcher Pass this year was spent developing a couple of big boulders on the west side of the top of the plateau behind the monolith with a pretty big crew. We started off at the Minecart Boulder at the base of an old abandoned mine, putting up 6 new lines including one of the best v3’s in Hatcher Pass, a tall proud arête called Mine Shaft. Then David and I headed over to the Dreamscapes Boulder and climbed 8 more lines, although several of them had likely been done before as some of the holds were cleaned. The best of this bunch were the stand start of Dreamscapes-v3 on the southeast arête, and Abstract Art-v6 up the east face.

A few filler problems were done on the backside of the Hulk Boulder as well.

Lane Hut: Last season Drew and Will opened up 4 really good hard crimp lines on the waterfall wall. This year David, Stephen Arwine, Hunter, and Will and cleaned three lines up the right hand side of the face. David also spent some time at the main Lane Hut boulders, but only put up 1 new line. Topos and documentation of existing problems needs to be done to get more people out to this area.

 Independence: In June we managed to get to Independence with a pretty good crew and were able to knock out a few of the projects in the Talus. I thought they were all pretty good, but the best of the bunch is a new line David did called Kick Ass Moustache-v2.

Past Summit Lake: Eddie Faye spent some time cleaning and bouldering in a new area over the pass towards Willow. He has pictures and such on his website.

Source: AK Climber

[comPiler]

All about Ptarmigan
9 July 2014, 12:38 am

As Ptarmigan has seen a bit of a renaissance this year, and loads of people have been getting up there, here’s the lowdown on the area as a whole.

The Ptarmigan area bouldering is spread out around the base of the north side of Ptarmigan Peak in Powerline Pass.  The bouldering is on generally solid compact sedimentary rock with just enough features to make the climbing interesting.



The Approach:

To get to Ptarmigan, drive to the Flattop/Glen Alps parking lot to park.  There is a $5 day use fee for parking, or you can get an annual Alaska State Park pass, which is $40 for one or $60 for two.   From the parking lot, take the powerline pass trail up the valley on the north side of Flattop.  It’s about 4 miles of beautiful mountain vista’s, wildflowers, and wildlife along a well maintained wide gravel trail. It’s quite common to see moose in the valley along the way.  Mountain biking is by far the fastest way, and while the way to the boulders is almost all uphill, the way out is a fun coast downhill.

The Boulders:

The main concentration of boulders sits in the bowl below the north face of Ptarmigan peak.  The boulders along the rim and east side of the bowl have generally good landings and are easily managed with 1-2 pads.  As you go East into the talus, the rock quality tends to get worse as do the landings, becoming a mess of talus jumbles.  Outside of the bowl, there are three large ones within a stones throw of the trail and many more scattered boulders throughout the valley.

The Triple Crown

• Sheep Farmer-v7
• Epiphany-v9
• Traffic-v10

The “Best Of” Circuit

Start off at the two boulders (Forgotten and Man Slap Boulders)  furthest up the trail.

• Forgotten Bliss v2sd
• Chris’ Arete v1
• Twisted Sister v4
• 3 spot v2
• TNT (stand) v4
• Tomfoolery v5sd
• Slip Slop Slope v5sd
• Skinhead v5sd
• Another Fine Yarn v4sd
• Unnamed v4sd (Found Boulder)

Source: AK Climber

[comPiler]

First Annual Alaska Boulderfest – 2014
15 July 2014, 1:47 am



Come one, come all for a great day of playing outside on some boulders!!

 

Source: AK Climber

[comPiler]

Alaska’s Best Boulder Problems (that are not in the guidebook)
5 August 2014, 6:20 pm

For all intensive purposes, I like to call the Alaska Bouldering Guidebook a success. Todd, Kelsey, and I, as well as many others, put a lot of time and energy into making the most accurate, useful, and comprehensive guide to established boulder problems as we could. However, there were limitations to what the guidebook could cover.  In Hatcher Pass we did not include areas of established boulder problems like the Lost World/ Middle Earth area, the Fair Angel talus fields, Tunnel Vision Gully, and the Lane Hut Boulders due to a lack of true development, lack of information, or remoteness of the areas. The Long Lake and Long Dong areas near Weiner Lake were omitted for similar reasons. Also, there is no way to update the guidebook as new problems get developed; and we have done a few doozies. So, lest anyone think that the spaces beyond and between the maps of the guide are devoid of boulders (they are not), here is a list of the best established problems (not in the book) that I know of.

1. Captain Obvious v8, The Lost World, Hatcher Pass

This brilliant line of crimps connected by powerful moves is a must do for anyone aiming to climb the grade.The Lost World Area is the name of the talus field south of the Diamond Area (there is an obvious gully that separates the two fields). This problem is an amazing overhang hiding against the hill on the northern edge of the talus field. Big moves on positive holds; they don’t get much better than this!

* Also, don’t miss the fantastic unnamed v1 just below this problem.

Captain Obvious actually climbs the other side of the bulge. It’s hard to get pictures of that side though.  



2. Tumpty Gumpty v4, Wonderland Talus, Fair Angel Valley, Hatcher Pass

This striking dihedral was found and cleaned by Will and Drew Crowther in 2011. The Dynamic Duo declared that “Top Gun v4″ was one of the best lines in the area. However, they were shocked to learn that it had been climbed almost a decade earlier by the likes of Todd Helgeson and Jeff Claeson! The Crowther Bros were further incensed by the unbefitting name, Humpty Dumpty v4. Although it is clear Will and Drew were not the first to climb the line, they argue that the problem was not properly cleaned and developed, therefore naming rights should go to them. Although a final resolution between the two sides seems unlikely, one unbiased observer keeps suggesting a ridiculous hybrid as a middle ground. Find this problem by walking into the talus field behind the established Wonderland problems and you will find it. Bring a few friends and quite a few pads as the landing is subpar and the top has a committing high step.

*Also in the area is a v5 problem with good crimps on an overhanging fin. Can’t describe it better.

*Also, a great v4 called Angel is the Centerfold, but you haven’t a chance of finding this line of positive edges.



 



3. Dreamcatcher V4, Avalanche Peak, Powerline Pass

Way off of the radar, this fantastic problem is found at about eye level with Powerline Pass, beneath Avalanche Peak. Don’t know where Avalanche Peak is? You can find it on Google.

There are a few smaller problems around the area, but the main draw is a problem called Dreamcatcher which follows a perfect line of holds on the obvious  lone block. Sit start on crimps follow them up to the blunt arete out left. The landing is flat and mostly tundra so you only need to carry up two pads with you. The approach is long, but the reward is a great problem with a spectacular view.

*Also, Cloud Climber, the v2 slab arete to the right, is quite good.





 

 

4. Chris’ Lament v8, Behind the Monolith, Hatcher Pass

I’m actually really sad this didn’t make it into the guidebook. It was right on the edge of the area that we included and is one of a handful of great v8 test pieces in Hatcher Pass. This powerful compression problem climbs between an arete and rare incut crimps. It may be short, but that only makes it more alluring to potential suitors as the problem can be attempted alone with few pads. It is located behind the monolith a few minutes past the Hulk Boulders. The trail will climb over a small ridge before entering a spongey meadow on top. Follow that ridge to the north about 100 yards or walk up the meadow and then head up and right about 100 feet. You can’t (and don’t want to) miss it. (See Map below).

Steven sending Chris’ Lament v8

5. Mine Shaft v3, Behind the Monolith, Hatcher Pass

Although I personally suggested calling it “Mein Shaft,” this wonderful v3 will not disappoint, even if the name does. It climbs up good holds on beautiful arete and has a decent landing on the Mine Cart Boulder. From the Hulk Boulder, looking to the west there are two very obvious large blocks across the valley, head for the south one that has scattered mining debris around it. Have fun.

*There are several good problems on this boulder and the large one to the north. Probably the most striking is the line next to Mine Shaft, a slopey rail called Anticline v6.

David on Anticline v6 next to Mine Shaft v3  

6. Rock’em Sock’em v6, Unnamed area, Hatcher Pass

This is a very new line that I am including because I really liked it. It follows an obvious 45 degree seam across a beautiful overhanging face. The beta that I found was dynamic, fun, and easy to protect and work First off, this area is a talus field way south of the rest. In fact it’s the only area that you will not cross the Archangel Bridge to access. 150 yards south of the bridge there is a pullout that leads to a narrow road that becomes an overgrown trail. Follow this along the south side of the creek for about 30 minutes until it emerges from the alders. From here the talus field to the south will directly uphill about 15 minutes away. Aim straight for it, avoiding some swampy drainage and find the obvious boulder at the base of the hill.

*The corner of the boulder is a very good v6-7 (?) called Droids on Roids. There are several good lines on this boulder including the All Tomato v1 and 101 Damnations v5.



*Sorry, photos wouldn’t upload (May post on AK Climber page on Facebook)

7. Happy Endings v2, Muffin Garden, Diamond South Area, Hatcher Pass

This problem went ignored for a long time just south and east of the Muffin Man boulder in a rocky meadow now dubbed The Muffin Garden. The problem is a synthesis of slab and arete climbing that ends with a brilliant jug rail. It is highly recommended for everyone who likes to do good problems instead of number chasing.

*You will likely pass a short boulder with a diagonal crack splitting it. Starting at the base of the crack is a fun v3 called Beef Nectar, right is Super Beef v2.

*Developed in the past few days, Heartbreaker v9 is apparently a fantastic low ball trending from an obvious crimp to slopers out right. going left is v10.





 

Let me know if I missed anything or if you want directions or if you hate these problems or if this is just a stupid piece of writing!

 

Source: AK Climber

[comPiler]

2014 Season Roundup
2 October 2014, 2:30 am

Firstly – I’m sorry we’ve not been posting very much content on the blog this year.  We made the decision to create a facebook page and have been posting pics and short updates there, but that has made it even easier to neglect the blog.  Here’s a link to that page: AK Climber Facebook Page.

It’s also been an odd summer.  David didn’t get back into town until early July from his roadtrip, and I’ve been trying to find the right balance between climbing, family, and work.  We’ve had a couple of attempts at Hatchers gatherings with differing levels of success (credit to Ian for pushing these through).  We’ve had alot of rain, some sun, some new development, some filling in at main areas, old testpieces getting repeats, new testpieces getting repeats, and new testpieces getting sent.  We learned to deal with the bridge being closed, which helped pushed exploration into Reed Valley, Sydney Creek, and The Lost World areas.

The July Boulderfest ended up with pouring rain through the morning, but a motivated group still climbing in the rain, and while the sun came out in the afternoon, psyche was a bit low (at least for me) due to being soaking wet.  The August Bloc Party ended up with a small but solid group coming out and perhaps the largest number of boulder pads in Hatchers at any one time, culminating in a new highball being cleaned and climbed and using all of them (aptly named Bloc Party-v5).

Will on Bloc Party Will got back in town in late June and David got back in early July and the bouldering development really started.  With the Archangel road bridge closed, it really pushed the development into different areas than the last couple of years.  In the Reed Valley, David, Will, and miscellaneous others developed the Wetness and K-Bone Boulders in the lower valley (before snowbird Slab) and the Trailside and Celebrity Shoutout boulders in Lower upper Reed Valley (just past the gap) along with miscellaneous other problems. Davids first foray though was up the Sydney Creek drainage on the left side of Archangel Road.  He developed the “” boulder there which hosts the new classic Rock ‘em Sock ‘em v6/7 along with another 9 problems in the area.  Some new stuff was also cleaned and developed in the Lost World, Upper Roadside, Diamond South, and Fairangel Talus areas.

Some notable repeats also happened this year with the biggest being the 2nd ascent of the highball testpiece Zen by Will, which had gone 10 years before being repeated.  David and Hunter both repeated Through the Looking Glass (soft v10?) for the 2nd and 3rd ascents.  Hunter snagged the 3rd(?) ascent of Traffic up at Ptarmigan, and the 2nd ascent of Falling Up – v9 out at Byron.

Right towards the end of the season David found and put up what he considers his best FA to date – A Vertical Life.  This line is a tall proud arete highball in the Reed area  which  David found, cleaned, hauled pads, and climbed all solo.

A Vertical Life – David Funatake I also managed a trio of new testpieces in the last few days knocking off Down with the Brown-v11/12? which is the full sit start to Brown Hole, The Bear King v11/12? which is a proud arete on the Mr Big boulder, and finally my proudest send to date More Buff than Muff v13 – The old project to the right of muffin man.

More Buff than Muff I’ll put together another blog post on the last one, but until then the season is still holding on, conditions are prime here in Alaska, so get out there and CLIMB!!!!!

Source: AK Climber

[comPiler]

A Vertical Life
11 October 2014, 10:53 pm

When I first started bouldering in Castle Hill, NZ I often wondered what it would feel like to be the person who found the classic, beautiful lines that held me enthralled. It seemed like an incredible thing to do and I wanted that experience. Eventually I would start developing my own problems in Hatcher Pass back when there was no information on bouldering, but I picked the most obscure areas that I could find and I dug out quite a few turds. Those were good times when I just want to climb everything regardless of difficulty or quality as long as it was the first ascent, but I knew that those problems would likely never be visited again. Since then I have had more luck.

In the past 4 years of climbing in Alaska I’ve been incredibly fortunate to have found and developed some amazing problems. Byron Glacier  was essentially a gift of unclimbed boulders sitting in a valley draped with hanging glaciers. Heaven on earth, or so I thought while Chris and I explored up to the toe of the glacier, cherry picking the best lines we could find. For two seasons, I devoted huge chunks of time to developing at Byron and ended up with a handful of classic lines to my name. I found another gem hiding far up the Powerline. In Hatcher Pass, however, my best contributions were less than significant and in 2013 I began shifting my energy to finding the new areas that were out there.

Near the end of the season August 30, 2013 I received the worst news I have ever had to bear. My friend, Kevin Volkening, had fallen. Kevin was one of the most influential and inspiring people I have ever met and knowing him was one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. Many of the highlights of my brief climbing life happened because him: first 12a red point, first trad lead, first mutli-pitch climb, first alpine trip; he brought out the best in me. He was such a real and genuine person that he could (and would) be a friend to everyone without diminishing the personality of each relationship. That day something essential was taken from all of our lives and in the year that has followed I have not been able to fully mend the void left by his passing. I likely never will. During the lonely hours I still feel anger and sadness and confusion welling up from the same place and I know it will take a lot longer for it to heal. Even writing these few  paragraphs has been difficult.

The idea to climb something as a tribute to Kevin came to me shortly after I returned home from the service in Montana. Since then I had been looking for the line that would honor his larger-than-life persona; preferably a tall, proud, classic problem. I never really mentioned this idea to anyone and the desire was beginning to weigh heavily on my mind. Even in the vastness of Hatcher Pass, there were few places where such a line could exist without having been discovered. The few of us who search have filled in much of the unknown areas of the map and although there was still potential out there classic lines were getting harder to find. Around the one-year mark I found a beautiful, short v3 aréte problem up Reed Valley which became the K-bone Aréte. I was uncertain if I would find anything more suitable than that. I had found a few other five star lines this summer, but nothing fit what I was looking for.

However, a few weeks later I stumbled upon the most striking line I had ever seen in Hatcher Pass and knew that it was perfect. It was tall, absolutely beautiful, and sitting on bench that overlooked all of the Reed Lakes Valley. I could hardly believe it. Two days later I brought the first load of pads and a rope kit to see if it would go. After cleaning and trying the moves, I left everything there and retrieved a second load of pads from our communal stash in the neighboring valley that night. I fell asleep exhausted, but content. In the morning a surprising and unpredicted series of showers nearly had me abandon the idea of climbing, but after eating a second breakfast I resolved to head up anyway. Rain and hail bombarded me on the approach, but by the time I reached the boulder the weather had moved on and the rock was surprisingly dry. I rehearsed the moves on rope again and felt confident about the high crux, a reachy move off of a foot smear 14 feet up.

What followed was one of the best problems that I have climbed in Hatcher Pass. It certainly is one of the most aesthetic and proudest lines in Hatcher and considering that I have climbed at Hueco, Bishop, Joe’s, and Squamish this season, I know it would be a five star problem anywhere.

To me this problem represents the culmination of two goals that I have been working towards in the last year. It is a gratifying to finally be putting up high quality lines in Hatcher Pass, but it is even more relieving to be able to dedicate such a brilliant climb to someone who I will never forget. Thanks again Kevin, for inspiring me to live A Vertical Life, In A Horizontal World.



Source: AK Climber

[Nibile]

Brilliant writing Sasq.
I've had a similar experience with a friend of mine, who fortunately didn't fall, but disappeared from my life nonetheless.
An American friend who spent some time here in Siena, where his girlfriend lived at the moment, and we became brothers. We climbed a lot together, and I shared with him some of my best climbing moments.
Eventually their relationship came to an end, and I took him to the airport without knowing that he would disappear.
He stopped replying to my emails soon after, and never again answered his phone.
This dates back to 2007.
Yesterday I decided to call the gym in California where he used to train, and left a message for him. I'm not confident, but I'm hopeful.
Thanks for sharing.

[r-man]

Thanks for writing that Sasquatch.

Can't think of a better way to celebrate someone you cared about than by doing something you both cared about.

[andy popp]

I don't think this is Sasquatch writing? But I agree with the sentiments Robin and Lore. The video is lovely too, touching. Hope you find your friend Lore.