[Doylo]

So is it 3 or 4 years of trying it now?

Probably about 13 sessions which is about normal to be getting close on a 8a for me.

What percentage of your problems did we work out have been downgraded? Was it 60%? 

[nodder]

Well when you climb so many good FA's people try to repeat them...

[nodder]

Fuck you doylo I have had enough of your fucking stirring, youve got a small cock and from what I heard you cant even use that right

[Doylo]

Fuck you doylo I have had enough of your fucking stirring, youve got a small cock and from what I heard you cant even use that right

Get back to ur shitty job hoovering up peoples chalk and selling mars bars you taffy cunt

[nodder]

Get back to ur shitty job hoovering up peoples chalk and selling mars bars you taffy cunt

well if i was off work sponging the dole for 2 years I would do more than nearly climb hard.

[Doylo]

Panton says he's defo putting Robins on the cover now as: "i won't sell fuck all with that ugly cunt dressed up as a tramp".

[nodder]

and?  guess you have to stir others up when all you've done is add different 7a finishes to a traverse to build up your fuking ego.

[Doylo]

Don't worry, i'm sure you'll find a way out of Floppys shadow before you're 40 (you might only overgrade by 1 by then!)

[nodder]

cant think of anything else

love you really

 

[Doylo]

cant think of anything else

love you really

 

And you (when you wash). p.s. you'll get Mr whippy soon

[nodder]

 

cant believe i didn't see it coming.   

[Nibile]

Is it over already? 

[Pantontino]

Quality abuse gents - I salute you! 

[Jaspersharpe]

Brilliant!

[Nemo]

At the risk of venturing back on topic...   

A few things from some of the older Yorkshire stuff:

Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all.  Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson?  Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent). 

The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break.  Dunno if it's been repeated.  Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range.

Keelhaul, All Natural, Lip Service, Reel Keelhaul, Bulbhaul all in list.  Quite how anyone decides which of these out of the ridiculous number of possible variations on these traverses are actually "problems" and which are eliminates I haven't got a clue...  (Up till now it seems to just be the ones which someone has bothered to name?)  But perhaps the "obvious" link of C+A into the Keel into the extension traverse isn't in...  Also the grades of the problems which use the back wall are pretty much dependent on how long you milk the rests.

Not sure what Final Edition is at Caley - but unless it's something I use a different name for then I'm pretty sure Tim Clifford didn't do it...  (Unless this is the unnamed dyno from the New Jerusalem crimp to the top which has acquired a name?, in which case he did...)

The RH sit start to New Jerusalem (ie: the obvious sit start rather than the one coming in from the left) maybe should be in, but I forget who did it and how hard.  (Steve Dunning / Christian Durkin / Mike Gray come to mind but I might be talking nonsense?)

Has noone got round to doing Fred's Under Ten's or Upside Your Head since the holds broke around a decade ago?  Tim Clifford reclimbed the moves in a few tries in the middle of summer years ago (it was too hot for the link on either) so they definitely still go unless there have been more recent changes?

Mistaken Identity - FA Tim Clifford (2003).  Tim gave this 8A.  Not sure who else has done it, but it went in guide at 7C+.  At a guess Steve repeated it and it's easier with his height / armspan, but I'm pretty sure this will be at least 8A for almost everyone else?

Mistaken Identity Direct - I'm guessing Steve Dunning did this?  Pretty sure it isn't going to happen for anyone other than the very tall (at least at around 8A...)???

Ralph LH Direct isn't a problem...  (Ralph was the name given by Christian Durkin to one of the various versions of the problem which starts up The Pinch and traverses L (to various extents) before dynoing for the top.  But different versions of this were older problems so think this went in the new guide without a name.  (It was completely mis-described in the 2000 guide - hence Mistaken Identity...)


Missing Problems:
Ill Gotten Gains - Eastby - Steve Dunning gave this 8A+ I think.  Heard a rumour of a repeat (or maybe repeats) with different sequence and easier grade but don't know for sure.
Does Mark Katz's direct version of Vicious Streak count as a separate problem?

Missing FA's:
Slim Shady - FA Dave Buchanan (2000)
Exocet - FA Steve Dunning (2000)
The Fonze - FA Andy Swann (2001)

Grades:
Take this with a pinch of salt - it's possible the following is well out of date (problems may have changed, grading standards shifted etc).  But from the opinions I heard on this stuff years ago, I think maybe - Play Dead, To You Too, The Fonze, Sweet Dreams, Slim Shady, Exocet and probably a few more are more like 7C+ and Mr C more like 8A?  Or if you want to keep them at the grade they are at, then some other things will probably need upgrading.  Going the other way, this is wild speculation, but I suspect when they've had more ascents, No More Mr Next Try, Ranieri's Reach, Lanny Bassham and maybe a few others will be getting upgrades?

[andy_e]

Thanks Nemo, good to get some facts down. Ill Gotten Gains was reportedly repeated by Tom Newman who reckoned 7B+ but this info might be third hand. No-one's got close to Oo upside your head or Fred's under tens because they're brick hard and Bitcon is a mutant. Those things you suggested as 7C+ are all apparently borderline but I've heard evidence for them still being 8A. I'll leave them on for now. There's a few dynos knocking around which could be 8A but I've no idea.

[punkpunk]

With regards to Scotland not sure it is worth having Chinese Democracy and My Evil Twin in there. Eliminate rules are crazy and unknown and not sure anyone has or will bother repeating with them. Both have been climbed at around 7c/+ with much more logical and obvious sequences...

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[Nemo]

"No-one's got close to Oo upside your head or Fred's under tens because they're brick hard..." - andi_e

Backtracking rapidly    On re reading, what I said about those two problems came out way too definite and should have had disclaimers round it.  Tim did try them - but thinking back, whether he did all the moves or whether there were bits missing I'm not at all sure.  It was ages ago...  I certainly got the impression they were both still doable (although the L one in particular looked v hard) - but if they've had attention and not been done since, that could easily have been the wrong impression.  Hope they are still doable though because they look good.


Back at Almscliff, I was told Ian Bitcon did the full "Lip Trip" on Demon Wall Roof, starting along The Exorcist and continuing all the way along lip.  Third hand info though.

[andy_e]

I'm pretty sure Peckitt and Dave Jones have had quick goes (if my memory serves me correctly) on Upside Your Head but on the day in question conditions weren't great and they were worried about firing off greasy things. I can't quite remember if this is the truth or if I've made it up. I'm also sure many other local heroes have had goes and there's definitely been a lot of chalk on it. Whether it's been done or not I've no idea but it's a big move to a small hold off a terrible side-pull and it's probably a one-move 8A, if not more. As for Fred's I'm not too sure, but I've hardly ever seen much chalk on it.

[mikester]

Some fat punter pulled off the crimp (which was used on the FA) from Fred's under Tens, but it has been repeated at the same grade, albeit with a different and pretty awkward method. Another fat punter pulled off a crucial pebble (also used on the FA) from Upside Your Head which has made it well hard and I've no idea if anyone's done it since; pulling off the ground seems barely possible. Stack of good hard problems on this wall. Bitcon was on fire when he nailed these two problems.

[andy_e]

Apparently Bitcon could be pointed at anything back in the day and as long as he could span between the "holds", he could climb it, no matter how shit the holds were.

So is Fred's still 7C+? Any opinion on Slapstick (AKA Mike's Problem)? I seem to remember running into said Mike at Joker's Wall and he said it might by easier than 8A. But again, the guy's clearly a beast.

[Duma]

Anyone know about anything in the Bristol area other than this?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230634

Not sure about anything else around here, but thumb wars extension is eliminate rubbish of training merit only, and doesn't deserve a name, let alone a place on this list, though it's certainly hard.

[turnipturned]

Word up Greg. For the Yarkshire list there is quite a few hard links now at Whitehouses. I can't comment on Crome's stuff (other than they look nails and some incredible beta to turn the lip on the right hand ride) but check out http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2772, however Katzsy did a really cool 8a+/8b (v12/13)  link called 'Yes we Can'.

[andy_e]

If Andy reads this, perhaps he can comment and/or draw a little topo?

[turnipturned]

The Trial of slinky Bobs master has been repeated quite a few times since the hold broke. Don't really make any difference to the grade!