keen roof or keen reach?
Quote from: tim palmer on August 16, 2012, 05:36:26 pmkeen roof or keen reach?Keen Reach , ha ha
Quote from: Doylo on August 16, 2012, 05:50:51 pmQuote from: tim palmer on August 16, 2012, 05:36:26 pmkeen roof or keen reach?Keen Reach , ha haoh well, I couldn't hold back the pettiness anymore
Quote from: tim palmer on August 16, 2012, 05:57:35 pmQuote from: Doylo on August 16, 2012, 05:50:51 pmQuote from: tim palmer on August 16, 2012, 05:36:26 pmkeen roof or keen reach?Keen Reach , ha haoh well, I couldn't hold back the pettiness anymorelanky cheating bastards
ah fuck you all. cunting short bastards, its not our fault you have shit genetics
acromegalic
Quote from: tim palmer on August 16, 2012, 06:21:34 pmacromegalicWord of the day!
Apparently oompa-loompas don't have knees, I'd better get my thin violin out then.
I saw polish dave fall off this repeatedly a few years back after having one hand on the lip and pissing to that point, not sure if he's done it since. This convinced me that its not a path if you're tall and very strong. I'd say its still a biggish deal as 8bs go, but being all there, roadside and not highball or silly crimpy or whatever it must be one of the more accessible 8bs.Interestingly, on the big lip hold on this there used to be a very sharp little spike on it that mysterisouly disappeared about the same time that the early repeats started to come in.
, but being all there, roadside and not highball or silly crimpy or whatever it must be one of the more accessible 8bs.
Interestingly, on the big lip hold on this there used to be a very sharp little spike on it that mysterisouly disappeared about the same time that the early repeats started to come in.
Quote from: dave on August 17, 2012, 11:58:21 am, but being all there, roadside and not highball or silly crimpy or whatever it must be one of the more accessible 8bs.Ticks all the boxes.
Quote from: dave on August 17, 2012, 07:46:08 amApparently oompa-loompas don't have knees, I'd better get my thin violin out then.You tall folk have really big hands too. Or is that just fat handed twatism.
I saw polish dave fall off this repeatedly a few years back after having one hand on the lip and pissing to that point, not sure if he's done it since.
got a rich simpson link too, if you look back to the old threads when originally done. All it needs now is a replaced chockstone and a patio landing.
Whilst completing meaningless tasks at work today, I gave a lot of consideration to the above topic. After thinking it over I feel compelled to follow up my previous comments, in which I held back a little with the fear of sounding bitter or bringing a controversial nature to what is a good effort by James. However, in doing so important history of this problem has been held back to.I cannot see how James line can be classed as a first ascent. I climbed this line, sans the first 2 moves (English 5c/6a) several times, but considered it only progress on what was to be the full line from the back of the cave starting as per bens roof, hence no first ascent claim.Obviously James considers his line to be the most worthy way to start the problem, yet this adds pretty much nothing to what had already been climbed previously- starting from the two good holds and climbing out.Therefore, as discussed throughout this thread, James line should be considered a variation on what I climbed, except I feel my line is a non-line and somewhat incomplete without a starting at the beginning of Bens roof. Obviously opinions differentiate, yet surely one cannot claim a first ascent, nor remove significance of a previously climbed line by adding 2 moves of relative ease.From a previous discussion at this problem, James was aware that I had climbed this problem from the stated place and also agreed that the line is 8a+ from here. I feel it's important that just because I didn't shout about, nor publicize my incomplete ascent, there is still no reason for it to be brushed under the carpet until superseded- which it is yet to be.Im sorry for bringing as downer on a somewhat impressive effort. However this line, although attempted very little, meant a great deal to me and I am not happy for it to be bought into disrepute
Yeah, he has. Think he thought it was still 7C ish from that point. For him it was a power endurance problem.
Yeah, bringing the other hand out is the tough bit.
the only really hard move on the problem is going off the pocket and undercut crimp to the lip, the rest is trivial in comparison. If you don't do do that move i.e. reach past it and go jug to jug, it is easier, that is all my silly comment was eluding to.
Also, a real challenge - Keen Roof to finish up the original Hook (not the cop out using the hold out left with heel hook). Definitely not 'morpho', whatever the fuck that is, but most certainly an eliminate (albeit a very cool and powerful one, and direct).
Has anyone repeated Fat Lip yet? Surprising if not, it's a good line. I did the crux moves individually and got quite excited, but never went back. So it's probably only 7C+.
More interestingly though - Tim - how did you get on with Fat Lip? I looked at this, but didn't try it. Looks good - did you do it?
Its the same old British story really - lets give people negative feedback for cool bits of climbing, and bicker until everything is 7c+, one of the main reasons why international standards are increasing with great and fun scenes, and we are all becoming known as a nation of grumpy know it all cnuts, still stuck where we were 10 years ago.
