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Russian route (Krasnoyarsk) on the Troll Wall is free (Read 4512 times)

jwi

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Father and son team Sindre and Ole Johan Sæther have freed "Krasnoyarsk", a.k.a. the "Russian route" on Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway.

The first ascent of Krasnoyarsk took 19 days in the winter of 2002 and the russian team reported technical difficulties up to A4+.

According to the Sæthers most pitches goes at around norwegian 7 (about 5.11) with some cruxes up to approximately 8- (5.12-).

As far as I know this is the forth FFA on the Troll Wall for Sæther after the Norwegian route, the French route and Arch wall.  At present time no other free-climbers seems to be attracted by the steep, loose and rotten rock on the Troll.

Muenchener

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At present time no other free-climbers seems to be attracted by the steep, loose and rotten rock on the Troll.

And 99% of those who might have been will have read Andy Kirkpatrick's blog and quickly abandoned the idea.

jwi

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(Photo: Norsk Klatring)

Krasnoyarsk goes on the right side of the wall and share a few pitches with Arch Wall but finishes more directly straight up  the Troll's spine. Tempting, ey?

SA Chris

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Terrifympting, ey?

Fixed. Even if I was talented enough I would still RUN AWAY!!!!

duncan

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Terrifying indeed.  The Troll wall was very high on my hit list for a long time.  Not now.

This programme from NRK about Michael Garton's accident says why.  Mostly in Norwegian, but the interview with Michael is in English.  Amazing filming of the rescue  - hats off to the flyers.

jwi

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Bjarte Bø's interview with Sindre Sæthre in Norsk Alpinklatring 2011 makes it clear how absolutely terrifying Arch wall is.  Bø, a local climber and one of Norway's finest Big wall climbers has the questions and Sindre's answers are horrifying...  :o

 

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