[shark]

In collaboration with Paul at Crusher Holds over the last 9 months we've developed a light portable fingerboard good for warming up at the crag and the climbing wall or for training at home.

Cost is £35 including P&P (UK delivery) and should be up on the Crusher shop by the end of this week.   

In the meantime here's an intro....




(Paul doesn't let me get a word in edgeways)

[abarro81]

Intrigued by the 2-sided design. Looks nice and small for putting in a bag to take to the crag.. look forward to testing yours at malham sometime.

[shark]

Intrigued by the 2-sided design. Looks nice and small for putting in a bag to take to the crag.. look forward to testing yours at malham sometime.

It feels like a more natural and comfortable way to hang compared to conventional fingerboards as your arms aren't twisted. 

[SA Chris]

Fingeborads at the crag; is this the thin end of the wedge?

[Turboman]

Not listened to video as I'm in the office.
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You have two spare blank sides you could stick some extra holds on (pockets maybe).

Looks interesting.

[andy_e]

Just a thought but why stop at two sides?

You want one of these then:

[Paul B]

the real question is Shark...

...what does EVA think of your wedge?

[Turboman]

Looks l

Just a thought but why stop at two sides?

You want one of these then:

Looks like something Randall would train on.

[shark]

Not listened to video as I'm in the office.
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You have two spare blank sides you could stick some extra holds on (pockets maybe).

Looks interesting.

Good thought in principle but it would have to be for a "maxi" model as the lump of wood would have to be wider to accommodate more holds especially deep pockets.

Another use for those staying at hotels travelling with work or on enforced non-climbing holidays is to attach it to a lat pull down machine in the hotel gym.

[shark]

the real question is Shark...

...what does EVA think of your wedge?

I'd be gutted if she thought it was crap

[Fiend]

Well that looks pretty funky and well designed 

[dave]

can you crimp those slots?

[shark]

can you crimp those slots?

You can full crimp all except the deepest (second joint) slot 

[Fiend]

Wait....you have a 2nd joint slot?? What is this, training for VSes?? 

[shark]

Wait....you have a 2nd joint slot?? What is this, training for VSes?? 

They are for warming up, weighted hangs, one arm pull-ups and smuggling drugs

[Three Nine]

Can you bring one down the foundry?

[shark]

Can you bring one down the foundry?

I've got one on its way in the post for you. I'll get in touch when it arrives and bring it down.

[Three Nine]

Kick ass.

[b3n99]

Think this is a great idea for warming up. Seen small fingerboards people use for warming up before but tends to rely on two points of attatchment which means they're very limited.

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position. Havnt tried it for one armed hangs so obviously cant comment but wonder what it's like stability wise? Does it roll at all if using it just one side?

[tomtom]

Erm, doesnt Dense use something similar?

Aside from a small dark cloud hanging over part of the crag, a mini-fingerboard hanging from a tree usually signfies his precence...

[shark]

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position. Havnt tried it for one armed hangs so obviously cant comment but wonder what it's like stability wise? Does it roll at all if using it just one side?

Its what I've been using for the last few weeks for my weighted hangs with superb results and before that on a prototype for a 90 hang workout which included alternated finger combinations, repeaters, encores and maximal hangs.

Before that I also did assisted one armers on an edge with foot in an etrier on a pulley and counterweight set up which gave enough stability.

However, I agree for unassisted one arm hangs and pull-ups on the smaller slots it will be pants limited.

If you think about it in one handed work on a fixed board you would tend towards the same side-on position as you would hanging on the Wedge with two hands.   

[Serpico]

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position.

And yet in your own avatar your right hand and arm is in that exact position. Lots of climbing moves involve twisting in which puts the hand and arm in that position, and for pure finger training it doesn't matter too much where the arm is in relation to the body.

[Paul B]

Think this is a great idea for warming up. Seen small fingerboards people use for warming up before but tends to rely on two points of attatchment which means they're very limited.

Really? All the instances I've seen have been equalised to a single point of attachment. Its been quite amusing watching incompetent clipstickers put these in the first bolt of routes and then look absolutely stumped when it comes to getting them back at the end of the day!

[b3n99]

And yet in your own avatar your right hand and arm is in that exact position. Lots of climbing moves involve twisting in which puts the hand and arm in that position, and for pure finger training it doesn't matter too much where the arm is in relation to the body.

I can see your point for finger training although i still think the 'squeezing' action you will get using two hands will alter training effects. I was more talking about the pull-ups side as shown in parts of the video. Just think it is significantly rarer to find this two hands facing and close together position rather than the standard straight on position of a normal board.

I'm in no way saying I dont think it's a worthwhile product it's just that personally I see its main advantages as a easy, portable warm up tool.

[Probes]

The Wedge is now available to purchase from the webshop...   

http://crusherholds.co.uk/the-wedge-1

[Carnage]

I want one! But can you send it to Oz for me? Your site only appears to offer shipping to the UK. We have some funny rules about getting wood into the country but my beastmaker got here so it should be fine.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

We have some funny rules about getting wood...

Giggle

[Nibile]

It may seem a bit strange to have such strict regulations, but if we had the same rules here in Italy now we wouldn't have our chestnuts forest plagued by parasites imported from China with chinese chestnuts...

[SA Chris]

And the UK wouldn't have suffered with Dutch Elm Disease?

[tomtom]

We have some funny rules about getting wood...

Giggle

We're all rooting for you being able to get wood Carnage

[andy_e]

Hope you're barking up the right tree with that statement TomTom...

[SA Chris]

Carry on you two

(cursor hovers over "punter" button)

[Probes]

I want one! But can you send it to Oz for me? Your site only appears to offer shipping to the UK. We have some funny rules about getting wood into the country but my beastmaker got here so it should be fine.

Leaf it to me, it wood be a great pleasure to send you one.

Ill get you an Oz shipping price n pm you.

[tomtom]

Carry on you two

(cursor hovers over "punter" button)

I didnt meant to keep the arboreal pun stream going with root - the joke was based around root having different meaning in Australian parlance...

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070930012847AAfQ0dB

[Moo]

If I'm gonna spend my hard earned cash on a wedge I think I'd rather head down this alley (innuendo intended)

NSFW

[JohnM]

Yeah these puns aren't very arborealiginal!

[andy_e]

TomTom, take a bough.

That pun was tenuous, John. It's sapping me just thinking about how bad a joak it was.

[Fultonius]

Oakay, oakay I think we've had just abought enough of this.

Jarrah! you say, as you are pineing for more!

Puns like this are a bit thins on the ground though....

[Carnage]

Haha - 

Wattle have I started?

I knew my choice of words wood generate the odd chuckle but I'd forgotten how much you guys like to run with these things and poak fun.

Anyways - Cheers Probes. I haven't rested on my laurels and I've PM'd you.

[shark]

I've just received a consignment of sven Wedges from darkest Lancashire.
 
If anyone wants a fondle and a hang let me know and I'll bob down the Foundry this evening.

[andy_e]

Sven Wedges

Is he that Swedish beast living in Darwen?

[shark]

Sven Wedges

Is he that Swedish beast living in Darwen?

He's currently holed up in a cellar and claiming diplomatic immunity

[andy_e]

Is he being force-fed chip barms and Benedictine by his host?

[Probes]

my host was keen to keep you all in the loop, here's the latest from life in the cellar... chip barms & benedictine 

[shark]

Our top salesman sees an opportunity to sell a wedge to a punter at raven tor. Let's see how he gets on....

[peewee]

my host was keen to keep you all in the loop, here's the latest from life in the cellar... chip barms & benedictine 

When did you decorate the cellar?

[shark]

I've found that the best way to hang the Wedge from a bolt is using a shortish piece of old rope with a krab at the end which is taped open so its easier to retrieve at the end of the day.

The Wedge can be attached to a clovehitched krab towards the other end of the rope so the height it hangs from can be adjusted.

[miso soup]

Are these still available?

[shark]

Are these still available?

I could probably sort you one but frankly there are better products now available

[miso soup]

What are these better products?  The Wedge looks nice and small and easily portable, Patxi's thing is too big.

[James Malloch]

I've just gone for a Problem Solver which seems like a good option. The Hanzo is reasonably small.

Shark - just realised I never replied to your PM regarding the Wedge around Christmas. I was ill at the time and completely forgot (until now). Apologies.

[standard]

http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboards/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard

[miso soup]

Thanks for the suggestions, but I still actually like the look of the Wedge more.  I want it for warming  up at the crag rather than as an actual training tool so mainly looking for something small that's doesn't take up too much room in a bag, can't be arsed lugging a whole fingerboard around.  Shark, if you cannot recommend something better than your product then I would like to order one please.

[shark]

Thanks for the suggestions, but I still actually like the look of the Wedge more.  I want it for warming  up at the crag rather than as an actual training tool so mainly looking for something small that's doesn't take up too much room in a bag, can't be arsed lugging a whole fingerboard around.  Shark, if you cannot recommend something better than your product then I would like to order one please.

Do you live in Sheffield or likely to be in the Peak in the near future?

[miso soup]

I live in Glasgow, some chance of being in the Peak at the weekend but not if the current forecast persists.  Happy to pay postage.

[shark]

Ill pm you my mobile in case you come down but if not I'll post it to you next week