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I'm back !! (Read 5572 times)

Avoiding the Traitor

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I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:28:55 am
What have been happening? Can't be arsed to read over 50+ topic that you've started.

Fine weather this weekend and I've got a bloody wedding to attend to  :roll:

Bubba

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#1 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:32:08 am
Where have you been?

Not much happening really, just the usual - if it's anything like today it'll be too hot on grit anyway. I'm also going to be stuck indoors with the reconstruction of my house.

Avoiding the Traitor

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#2 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:35:55 am
Just been to Oz (visiting my other half's families) Beautiful place.

Yeah it seem to be too warm for bouldering :(

Bubba

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#3 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:38:31 am
Lucky man - where did you go in Oz? I'm hoping to head out next year as my brother and his (Australian) wife are settling down there.

Did you climb?

Avoiding the Traitor

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#4 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:41:10 am
Pine Ridge (Don Vale region in Victoria) near Melbourne.

Brought my shoe there and I fucking torn my right thigh muscle doing helping her unc lifting.

Basteward !! still hurting like hell at the moment.

Bubba

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#5 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:52:17 am
Cool - they're hoping to end up in Melbourne but apparantly the house prices have gone mental, so may end up being in Brisbane for a while.

Not looking forward to that sort of flight, but then it's a good excuse to stop off in SE Asia for a few days.

Avoiding the Traitor

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#6 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 09:56:38 am
Yeah saw the price at the local estate agent - it is certainly mental !!

Stop over at Singapore and I am very impressed on the cleaniness of the city.

hongkongstuey

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#7 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 10:22:25 am
Quote from: "Avoiding the Traitor"
Stop over at Singapore and I am very impressed on the cleaniness of the city.


will be passing through there tomorrow - fortunately only for an hour or so - and then heading to Jakarta, where i will most definately not be impressed with the cleanliness of the city (its the biggest hole i've ever visited - gotta go see the out-laws though...................)

Carnage

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#8 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 10:39:10 am
Quote from: "Bubba"
Lucky man - where did you go in Oz? I'm hoping to head out next year as my brother and his (Australian) wife are settling down there.

Did you climb?



I'm moving to Sydney permanantly in Septemeber this year. Can't wait to be able to get outside all the time after being stuck in London for so long.

If you go, you've gotta got to NSW. Got the bouldering guide when I was out there last and theres so many quality areas to go within the city radius. Checked a few places out (couldn't climb cos injured at the time) From Lindfield to Sissy to the Balkans - So much quality.  And they just keep finding more..................

Avoiding the Traitor

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#9 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 10:40:36 am
Must visit NSW soon when my thigh muscle have ease up.

you lucky git.

hongkongstuey

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#10 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 11:02:15 am
Quote from: "Carnage"
Checked a few places out (couldn't climb cos injured at the time) From Lindfield to Sissy to the Balkans - So much quality.  And they just keep finding more..................


managed quite a few myself - top quality stuff, some of which was very grit like too:

http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/aus/sydney.html

Carnage

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#11 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 11:02:56 am
Get yourself an Aussie woman. Its they way forward and makes things alot easier........... :D

dave

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#12 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 11:06:15 am
.....preferably one of these.

Carnage

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#13 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 11:07:59 am
Quality pics Stu  :D

Thats gotta be one of the weirdest angled shots I've seen of Frankenstein. The ones in the Guide make it look like a slighty bigger Crescent Arete!

What did you make of the Fear Factory? Live up to its name?

hongkongstuey

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#14 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 11:17:27 am
Quote from: "Carnage"
What did you make of the Fear Factory? Live up to its name?


only spent a morning there and by that time i'd gone through at ;east 4 of my tips (was going hard at the frontline the day before - best venue visited)

fear factory was ok - didn't explore too much - just the small bay around frankenstein - couple of quality V5 slabs there abouts though (and frankenstein is about the same size as Cresent Arete - possibly bigger)

Bonjoy

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#15 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 11:43:12 am

 The wing cave (who's that hansome devil in the background feeling the grips on his awe-inspiring unrepeated new line? :8) )

 Locktite at the wing cave (favourite Sydney prob v10 in guide, only V7 if you do the bonjoy patented feetfirst beta (as seen above :wink: ))

 Spent five months working in Sydney in 2003 and really liked the bouldering. Didn't rate FF much too much like dirty hot snappy version of grit. Loved Crumbly, the Wing cave, Balkans and Villas. Check out Vi-bouldering (in links) for good local knowledge.

Carnage

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#16 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 12:18:26 pm
Isn't American Siege one of yours as well, Bonjoy?

Got any good shots of that - Looks quality from the one pic I saw.

Bonjoy

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#17 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 12:31:37 pm
No just a repeat, but a very fine prob.

 Is this the pic?
 Have got a few pics and some vid of Sheffield steel, but it's all back home.

Carnage

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#18 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 12:49:04 pm
Yup- Thats the one I saw. Does look good (and hard!)!

Have you got any recommendations (all grades) for the Balkans?

So much stuff there- Dunno where to start.........

Cheers.

Bonjoy

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#19 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 01:07:21 pm
L'Home Obu  is a brilliant V10 which is commonly done as two seperate probsV7 and V8 both really good. Pocket's of resistance and the prob to its left both V6 ish are brilliant, Sloperdan Milosovich is good. Go to the trenches on the other side of the valley too as this has some cracking stuff, including Mr Winston good value V8. Jessica's is a good small area in Balkan's valley also but you'll need local knowledge to find it as it's not in the book (try posting on Vi-bouldering forum).

AndyR

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#20 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 02:11:16 pm
Quote from: "hongkongstuey"

managed quite a few myself - top quality stuff, some of which was very grit like too:



Stu - am off to New Zealand next week and then passing back through Sydney and HK - are you going to be in Honkers early June? Me and the missus are prob staying with grotty Tony but hoping to get out for a spot of bouldering (and possibly some sport climbing) - can you show us a few places as sparky is not sure if he's going to be there??

Will be going to Castle Hill in NZ - are we mad to consider going there without a pad? Anyone any experience of buying pads in NZ?

Can you get to the stuff in Sydney without a car - think we're staying in Manley? If you had one day to boulder - where would you go?

Bonjoy

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#21 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 02:28:30 pm
Tools of the adventure pads are very good and make in NZ, get one in Christchurch, landings are generally good at castle hill but many probs are high. However locals are very friendly and theirs usually a few parties with pads at Quantum fields.
 In Sydney quite a few crags are accessible by public transport, although the guide book locations descriptions require a Sydney street map to follow. Manly is Ok for north Sydney stuff like Sissy and Crumbly. If you only have one day bouldering I would reccomend the Balkans - Frontline, a variety of styles, plenty of classics or the Wing Cave if you want to bag something tricky (hard to get to on Public transport and a long way from Manly though)

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#22 I'm back !!
April 23, 2004, 03:36:02 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Tools of the adventure pads are very good and make in NZ, get one in Christchurch, landings are generally good at castle hill but many probs are high. However locals are very friendly and theirs usually a few parties with pads at Quantum fields.
 In Sydney quite a few crags are accessible by public transport, although the guide book locations descriptions require a Sydney street map to follow. Manly is Ok for north Sydney stuff like Sissy and Crumbly. If you only have one day bouldering I would reccomend the Balkans - Frontline, a variety of styles, plenty of classics or the Wing Cave if you want to bag something tricky (hard to get to on Public transport and a long way from Manly though)


Stout fellow - many thanks for that.

hongkongstuey

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#23 I'm back !!
April 24, 2004, 02:29:06 am
if you've only got a few hours to kill whilst in Sydney, Pearl Bay is quite close to Manly and has some fun problems (you'll tick the place in less than 2 hours though so if you've more time, head elsewhere - frontline would also be my recommendation)

an insanely good V4 at Pearl Bay (quite tricky too - flashed the classic V6 but this took a good 15-20 mins of effort to bag the top bit)

hongkongstuey

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#24 I'm back !!
April 24, 2004, 02:32:11 am
Re: HK

be delighted to show you about - my guide to the main bouldering area is almost complete (just need to get hold of some topo maps to 'extract' my base maps from and i'm pretty much there) - 225 problems between VEasy and V10 to throw you at

unfortunately it'll be 30+ degrees and about 90% humidity when you're here (best to avoid those friction probleems)

my guide for main sport climbing area can be downloaded here : http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/downloads/tunglung.pdf but we'll keep hush hush about any plans for such irrational behaviour

mireeves

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#25 I'm back !!
April 24, 2004, 05:39:39 pm
Stuey

Great pics, have any of the opera house aretes been climbed?

If not looks like a great way to get yourself arested.

AndyR

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#26 I'm back !!
April 26, 2004, 10:14:14 am
Quote from: "hongkongstuey"

unfortunately it'll be 30+ degrees and about 90% humidity when you're here (best to avoid those friction probleems)



Splendid - a pre-arranged excuse for my piss-poor bouldering ability!

Have you ever heard sparky's 'my feet are too big for this problem'??

AndyR

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#27 I'm back !!
April 26, 2004, 10:16:51 am
Quote from: "hongkongstuey"
Re: HK

be delighted to show you about - my guide to the main bouldering area is almost complete (just need to get hold of some topo maps to 'extract' my base maps from and i'm pretty much there) - 225 problems between VEasy and V10 to throw you at


Excellent - looking forward to it.

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#28 I'm back !!
April 26, 2004, 10:34:06 am
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Have you ever heard sparky's 'my feet are too big for this problem'??


Andy, that was YOUR excuse!

AndyR

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#29 I'm back !!
April 26, 2004, 10:38:14 am
Quote from: "jonP"
Quote
Have you ever heard sparky's 'my feet are too big for this problem'??


Andy, that was YOUR excuse!


Doh!

 

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