Loving the LED thing. Talked about this idea years ago, great to see some one do it. How much did it cost him and how does it work.
the next step is to be able to program the input pad so that we can just enter a grade and it will randomly select a problem at that grade
Salve Tutti. Here's an Italian orthopaedic surgeon talking....
I have always been much better open handed than crimped to the point where I hardly ever crimp a hold and cant hold things crimped that i can easily hold open handed. i am convinced this must be a muscular thing and therefore i need to train it by crimping as doing things half crimped or open just does not work as i just get stronger in those positions.Has anyone else done this?
I think that, in fact, the best environment to train the full crimp is precisely the fingerboard, on which you can slowly put pressure on the fingers, choose an even hold, etc.
the second part will raise even more eyebrows... i find, though, that his very cautious advice is generally good for those who are relatively new to climbing and fingerbparding/campus, which in some venues are the majority of campus and fingerboard users!!! (really: in one gym next to paris for instance, the average campus boarder is at best barely able to do 1-3-5 on closer-than-standard jug rungs, always unable to do 1-2-3 on standard 1.5 pad rungs, and does so with horrible form and very poor coordination) also : nibs, the priority for most of them is learning that the open-hand and half crimp grips exists, and generally speaking how to properly put their fingers around the holds. Teaching beginners i see a lot of "natural born squeezers/crimpers" and very few natural "wide-pinchers" and open-handers.it is also not true, imho, that open-handing always puts zero stress on the pulleys and as a result doesn't reinforce (nor damage) them. I know people who completed a partial pulley tear while pulling a two finger pocket...i agree that controlled crimping on a fingerboard is a good idea, but mostly for the advanced group: those who already have a fair amount of training experience, who open-hand whenever possible, and need to be ready for the occasional nasty crimp.the videos above seem clearly not aimed at this group.what i do not like is how some things are left untold. In the last bit there is an interesting discussion about strenghtening muscle vs other tissues. But instead of suggesting that one should not attempt high intensity/low volume without a proper low intensity/high volume base, we are left with the impression that any proper strenght training is plain stupidity and a sure path to injury.