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Fingerboard question. (Read 2319 times)

Andy W

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Fingerboard question.
July 26, 2020, 06:17:29 pm
My general problem is failing on problems that are more than 8 moves or so long. It’s not a question of getting pumped, more a lack of gas/power.

I’m currently doing some Beastmaker sessions, using the app with a 7 sec on , 3 off, 6 reps, 1 set. To get more power endurance if that is indeed what I need, should I do more sets, increase the difficulty or hang longer. If anyone could direct me without it getting to complicated I’d be grateful.

MischaHY

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#1 Re: Fingerboard question.
July 27, 2020, 09:18:37 am
From what you've said it sounds like you need to improve the muscles ability to function in the anaerobic lactic energy system.

This means you need to do the repeaters at an intensity which doesn't allow for significant aerobic recovery (i.e. powering out, not getting pumped).

It's probably easiest to download the crimpd app and do the exercise '7:3s 80%' which is pretty much just repeaters but at a fairly high percentage of your max hang (bodyweight + x kilos). Doing this 2-3 times a week depending on how used you are to fingerboard training should definitely show some steady gains.

Other non-fingerboard options are high-frequency bouldering sessions (lots of problems just under or on your flash grade approximately 'on the minute', or doubles on board style problems (8-12 moves, ideally around flash grade and must be pre-practiced).

Hope this helps  :great:

Nibile

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#2 Re: Fingerboard question.
July 27, 2020, 11:41:01 am
What?
Almost an entire day from the question and no "Climb fasterTM" advice yet?
UKB is in ruins.

Andy W

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#3 Re: Fingerboard question.
July 27, 2020, 11:45:22 am
I appreciate both replies ;)


tomtom

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#4 Re: Fingerboard question.
July 27, 2020, 01:45:44 pm
What?
Almost an entire day from the question and no "Climb fasterTM" advice yet?
UKB is in ruins.

Sorry - been on Holiday :)

kingholmesy

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#5 Re: Fingerboard question.
July 28, 2020, 07:11:40 am
Wouldn’t you be better off setting long (more than 8 moves), sustained / non-cruxy boulder problems on a board?

Or doing double / triple up problems, either jumping off or (better) coming down on jugs before going up again?

Basically setting power endurance type circuits or sets of problems, where individually the moves aren’t too hard, but where on links you are running out of ooomph rather than getting pumped.

 

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