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French climbing Terms (Read 31295 times)

220bpm

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#25 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 12:09:30 am
je suis fait une steak - I've ripped a flapper, or literally I have made a steak (out of my finger..). 

Anyone heard this actually used by a Frenchman?  think I learnt it out the back of a font guide years ago..

True enough, at the back of the old Stephen Gough guide  :)

Cuppla others from the same source...
1. une prise taillee - a chipped hold
2. coincer - to jam
3. je suis daube - I'm knackered
4. tomber - to fall
5. bloquage - a lock off

lmarenzi

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#26 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 12:20:35 am
spot - une parade

parade - defilee

spit - bolt

SA Chris

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#27 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 10:13:52 am
Oh yeah an important one

assis - park your bum.

Palomides

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#28 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 10:32:32 am

I've heard "steack" used for flappers (just to confirm from above)

Also:

"envoyer des cartouches" - give it everything

"a donf" - inverse slang ("verlang") for "a fond" - give it everything

"en moule" - short for "en moulinette" - on toprope

Have we had these?

"engagée" - bold/committing
"exposée" - exposed (also phrases like "plein du gaz", "il y a du gaz")
"partage" - share (for hands)

Joepicalli

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#29 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 10:50:53 am

Dalle - slab
J'adorrrrrrrre la Dalle

as a friend of ours might say

andy_e

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#30 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 10:56:05 am
Excuses:

Mes bras ont tombée en panne (ish).
J'ai mal au doigts.
C'est trop chaud.
C'est trop froid.
Les blocs/les prises sont comme le beurre.
La pesanteur est trop fort.
J'ai mangée trop des pâtisseriesce matin/J'ai boirée trop du vin rouge hier.

tomtom

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#31 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 11:11:31 am


Genius.

rich d

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#32 Re: French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 04:16:24 pm
I don't believe you need anymore than this

tomtom

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#33 French climbing Terms
July 25, 2012, 08:38:43 pm
Superb! Should also be in the Wiggo appreciation thread :)

ghisino

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#34 Re: French climbing Terms
July 26, 2012, 10:32:18 am
http://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Lex_Fr.html

take = avale (or possibly 'sec', never quite got my head round this one)

avale="there's two feet of excessive slack in front of me, please belay instead of looking around, i'm scared" (on toprope)

sec="i'm pumped, scared and i want to rest on the rope, RIGHT HERE" (toprope or leading)

jwi

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#35 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 01:29:24 pm
There are plenty of lists of climbing terms in french and english on the internet. I find these mostly useless for anything else than long alpine routes. Mostly I just want to ask for (or possibly describe) beta ("méthode"), so I've compiled a list of climbing terms that are actually useful for me. I'm sure my list is as riddled with errors as the aforementioned lists

Describing holds   
channel between tufas/colonettes   cannelure (f)
crack   fissure (f)
crimp   arqué (f or m, I don't know)
dish   bossette (f)
drop-pocket   goutte d’eau (f)
edge, crimp   réglette (f)
jam (noun)   verrou (m)
jam/wedge (verb)   coincer/se coincer
jug   bac (m)
one-finger pocket   mono(-doigt) (f)
open-hand, drag   tendu (m)
pebble   graton (m), cachou (m)
pinch   pince (f)
pocket   trou (m), usually mono(-doigt) (f), bi(-doigt) (f) or tri (f).
sidepull   verticale (f)
sloper   plat (m), aplat (m)
three-finger pocket   tri(-doigt) (f)
tufa/rib   colonne (f)/colonnette (f)
two-finger pocket   bi(-doigt) (f)
   
Describing features   
arete   arête (f)
corner   dièdre (m)
crack   fissure (f)
face/steep face   dévers (m)
flake   ecaille (f)
overhang   surplomb (m)
roof   toit (m)
slab   dalle
   
Describing body positions:   
compression   compression
drop knee   lolotte
edge (part of shoe)   carre (f)
figure of four   Yaniro
flag, flagging   drapeau (m)
frogging   grenouille
Gaston   épaule (f)
hand-foot   pied-main
heelhook   crochetage talon, crochete (m) de talon
hooking   crochetage
inside edge (part of shoe)   carre (m) interne
outside edge (part of shoe)   carre (m) externe
palming   appui de paume
smear   adhérence
toehook   crochetage pointe, crochete (m) de pointe
undercling    inversée (f)
   
Describing movements:   
cross-under/rose move   derviche
cross, cross through   croisé, croiser
dyno   jeté
go again   relance
jamming   "verrouiller"
layback   dülfer
lock off   bloquage
mantle   rétablissement
stemming   opposition
switching hands   changement (m) de main

mrjonathanr

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#36 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 09:01:51 pm
Good list.
+
en arque = crimped, therefore neither m nor f as refers to les doigts
une reglette = an edge or a crimp
en epaule= gaston
gainage (f) = to lock elbow straight and roll at shoulder only using arm as a single lever. (eg say rh starts up right and finishes down left by left hip..best on steep ground)..never heard /seen this outside of France, quite effective tho...
un conduit = a slap where whole body is locked static except the moving arm

une I nversee= undercut
Translate... Les inversees sataniques?  :)


Interested in any further terms, no matter how recherché (ahem)....
« Last Edit: January 15, 2015, 09:14:37 pm by mrjonathanr »

ghisino

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#37 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 09:11:12 pm

gainage (f) = to lock elbow straight and roll at shoulder only using arm as a single lever...never heard /seen this outside of France, quite effective tho...
un conduit = a slap where whole body is locked static except the moving arm


err... i'd rather translate gainage as "body tension". ad "gainer" as "applying body tension"

for instance: bon, là faut relancer main droite derrière l’arête et bien gainer pour pas prendre la porte  so, there you need to bump your right hand around the arete and keep a really stiff core otherwise you'll twist.

and a "conduit" is rather a very controlled dynamic move.

jwi's list is mostly correct with one exception.

gra(t)ton is not a "pebble" but rather a local fontainebleau term for "small sharp crimp"

other local font terms/variants:

spatule = toe hook
réta = mantle
« Last Edit: January 15, 2015, 09:17:59 pm by ghisino »

jwi

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#38 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 09:28:10 pm
thanks, in my head gratton = small shitty thing = pebble  :oops:

I've also never heard “gainage” in any other sense than “body tension”.

Réta is a short form for rétablissement, right?

ghisino

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#39 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 10:40:11 pm
yes reta is the short for retablissement (the full form is rarely used)

mrjonathanr

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#40 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 10:45:42 pm
I suspect ghisino is more native than I am, so I'll stand corrected on best usage as conduit and gainage were used/first encountered by me principally (though not exclusively) in specific contexts:
conduit; describing the semi-static way of doing Choucas crux (Mark Leach's method)
gainage; some of the pocket moves on Zarma at Supermarché

réta is the abbreviation of rétablissement


Have we had..?
engagé - run out
expo - (genuinely) bold

jwi- what's your first language?

fatboySlimfast

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#41 Re: French climbing Terms
January 15, 2015, 11:15:48 pm
My favourite for font and for wall trained boulderers on grit slabs......
Mulet comme un baudet.....mule like a donkey

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#42 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 01:18:45 am
I like the tit-for-tat with the figure-4/Yaniro and the Gaston/epaule

mrjonathanr

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#43 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 07:35:53 am
Petit vérin (small car jack)= weak
De la bouse (cowpat)= bag of, ~ choss

The danger with slang terms is that they quickly become out of date and my time as grimpeur-glandeur was 2 decades ago...

Krymson, you may  also like
Pan Güllich = campus board

Wood FT

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#44 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 09:35:59 am
Pan Güllich = campus board

An Italian friend told me this the other night, very cool

jwi

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#45 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 11:45:46 am
I suspect ghisino is more native than I am, so I'll stand corrected on best usage as conduit and gainage were used/first encountered by me principally (though not exclusively) in specific contexts:
conduit; describing the semi-static way of doing Choucas crux (Mark Leach's method)
gainage; some of the pocket moves on Zarma at Supermarché

réta is the abbreviation of rétablissement


Have we had..?
engagé - run out
expo - (genuinely) bold

jwi- what's your first language?

My first language is Dog*.

The expo = bold is confusing. I think many of us have made the error, thinking exposed = expo/exposé. Exposed = gazeuse is good knowledge.


-----------
* Not really. (Swedish.)

ghisino

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#46 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 12:11:49 pm
a few that could be useful mostly in alpine/MP context :

(rocher) délité/pourri  choss

vire ledge

lunule  thread

bequet ok i don't know the english for this! it's when you have a protruding spike or feature and you can throw a sling over it for protection

relais belay station

standard MP sequence of events:
relais, vaché! i'm safe
libre off belay (also used to tell the ropes are free, when abseiling)
bout/fin des cordes it's me
quand tu veux on belay
départ climbing

CAILLOU!  rock (falling piece of...)

jwi

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#47 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 12:16:25 pm

bequet ok i don't know the english for this! it's when you have a protruding spike or feature and you can throw a sling over it for protection


chicken head/spike/horn depending on rock type?

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#48 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 12:28:10 pm
Gleaned from ghisino's post, but not specifically pointed out: prendre la porte = "to barn door"

Right?

ghisino

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#49 Re: French climbing Terms
January 16, 2015, 01:24:10 pm
right

 

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