You want stuff in that grade range?
Massala Martyr and Brief Encounter, not crimpy but too powerful for you
(I got told to save Ecstacy in case flashing 8b ever gets on the cards.)
Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.
Massala Martyr
I would warrant that this will be downgraded soon (ridiculously) so if you want your 8b flash you better get your skates on.
Quote from: Paul B on July 17, 2012, 03:54:15 pmIts not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on July 17, 2012, 04:41:40 pmQuote from: Paul B on July 17, 2012, 03:54:15 pmIts not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.The only person? People have been saying it's 8a+ for years, it's not even as hard as Urgent Action.
Quote from: Serpico on July 17, 2012, 10:48:54 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on July 17, 2012, 04:41:40 pmQuote from: Paul B on July 17, 2012, 03:54:15 pmIts not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.The only person? People have been saying it's 8a+ for years, it's not even as hard as Urgent Action.Yes it is, that was one of the 8a+ s I was referring to
Lets keep all soft 8bs in Yorkshire please and away from the peak
Ha ha I was wondering how long it would be before someone said that. It is only soft because everyone seems to climb round to the left to clip the mid crux clip and then climb the route
Grooved Arete doesn't have any left hand crimps and is soft for the grade.
The Ripper doesn't have any boney LH crimps.
On the crux there is a boney crimp for your RH and then a boney Gaston for your LH.
One man's hard for the grade is another man's easy. They're all subjective anyway.
Quote from: Andy F on July 19, 2012, 09:45:00 amOn the crux there is a boney crimp for your RH and then a boney Gaston for your LH.Do you crimp said Gaston?
The Ripper is mostly undercuts/sidepulls a la Malham. GA does have one crimp for your left, at the top, but you can open hand it.Andy F
Quote from: tim palmer on July 18, 2012, 11:27:51 pmHa ha I was wondering how long it would be before someone said that. It is only soft because everyone seems to climb round to the left to clip the mid crux clip and then climb the routeor they just have it pre-clipped!