[dpb]

I had a go this last night - fantastic route! 

So, from the two pockets/jugs by the first peg and thread, I was using a left knee bar to go left hand to a big slopey pinch and then moving right to end up on a postive sidepull (thumb on top) with right and left in the large vertical slot.  I was then throwing with right to a pinch in the arete of the grove before moving left to the good holds by the peg and one the shoulder.  This throw wasn't too bad as a move but seemed like it would be a stopper when climbing from the ground.

Am I missing some cunning trick or even entire holds? 

I'm keen to get back on it after my body has recovered from such a full on workout.

All beta for the cave section gratefully received.

Cheers

Dave

[Tommy]

It is an excellent route. It actually got me inspired for lime trad, which is saying something! A sweet line from Jon.

That section you're talking about has quite a few different methods. I've seen 3 myself from 3 people! It's an easy place to fall off, but then again, so's the top crack 

I did a big chuck to holds by the peg with my right hand out right on a pinchy thing. I saw Pete use a more static longer, lock method. Good move either way.

[leeroy]

great to hear this is dry. dom did the move the way tom describes. keen to go at some point.

[dpb]

The route isn't completely dry but definitely climbable. The left hand side of the starting pillar is wet. I climbed the pillar straight on to undercut with right under the roof and reach across left to a good hold. It looked like out might be better to climb the left of the pillar and reach in to a hanging crack to them gain the same hold but this was soaking. Which way did you guys start? After that the 2 good holday by the first peg and thread were damp and muddy as were the holds in the break under the overlap before the crack.

Tom/or Dom were you using the good pinch in the arete (above small stuck wire) at all? Is the pinch you used down and to the right of this?

Thanks for the replies.

[Bonjoy]

I did something similar to you dave getting pinch on arete with RH. There was a right facing Egyptian in there somewhere either to get the pinch or do to move off it. Also an unobvious high horizontal right leg kneebar. Memory is vague but I think the kneebar was to get the pinch and then bump LF into Egyptian to gain break.
BTW that stuck wire pre-dates my ascent. I’d have removed it but it’s too small for a nut key and I forgot to bring wire cutters. Good medium wire on right and unobvious largeish cam on left in shallow but good placement.

Good to hear it's getting some attention.

[dpb]

Cheers Jon

I'll have a play with knees and things.

Out of interest did you climb the left of the pillar (inside the cave) our climb it straight on to undercut with right and move back left?

I take it you didn't clip the stuck wire then? The medium write being in the right to left downward sloping slot? Did you place those on lead?

To anyone else whose tempted, this really is a top class route in a beautiful setting.

[Bonjoy]

I climbed the left side of the pillar and reached left to juggy break. Don't remember this bit being too hard, but can't remember much about specific holds/beta.
No, I didn't bother clipping the stuck wire. The medium wire is in the right trending crack out right, not the slopey left trending pod further left which I used as a handhold.
Everything placed on lead. Fortunately I got up it first go on the day, stripping it between goes would have been a tiring ballache! The only lapse from complete purity was that I had the draws in on the twin pegs above the crux. This was unavoidable as I stick clipped these to toprope the crux bit as my warm up (no other warm ups being available obviously!). The rope wasn't pre-clipped into them of course.

Worth noting that the route stays dry even in heavy showers.

[dpb]

cheers

Climbing the left side of the pillar looked like the way but was soaking.

Climbing the right and then reaching left to the juggy break from an undercut certainly felt like it was adding a bit.

It's good to have such an inspiring route this side of the peak.

Thanks again for all the posts

Dave