As seperate point re failing in exercises that isnt always the way to go in gaining strength. I'm experimenting with Lopez's two handed weighted hangs where the recommendation is that you do 3 reps (with 3 mins rest between reps) with resistance at a level that you hang for 10secs at a level where you expect to fail at 13 secs.
Quote from: shark on June 27, 2012, 12:45:16 pmAs seperate point re failing in exercises that isnt always the way to go in gaining strength. I'm experimenting with Lopez's two handed weighted hangs where the recommendation is that you do 3 reps (with 3 mins rest between reps) with resistance at a level that you hang for 10secs at a level where you expect to fail at 13 secs. would be interested in that. I'd like to know your progresses and impressions. I read an entry on her blog, about bigger gains being obtained when training on bigger holds than on micro crimps.
I'm waiting on the final version of a portable fingerboard Ive been developing with Probes (the Wedge) over the last 8 months so will properly benchmark and train on that when it arrives.
Quote from: shark on June 27, 2012, 01:47:56 pmI'm waiting on the final version of a portable fingerboard Ive been developing with Probes (the Wedge) over the last 8 months so will properly benchmark and train on that when it arrives. Hmmm, sounds interesting, any more info you can say about this?
Downside of the 10s x 3 max hang or BM type repeaters for building strength is that ultimately you want to be able to bone down on a one rep max holds to send that one, solitary PB boulder that you have set yourself, so mixing some into your training has to be good too.
http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Finger%20training
Even weight lifters whose only aim is to improve single rep max will mostly be doing sets of sub maximal lifts (up to 6, perhaps?) to get stronger. That sixish number is what you would be doing for repeaters too, so I would assume that repeaters primarily build strength and are not, in fact, very power endurancy (whatever power endurance might mean) as is assumed by some people.
(those resin edges look horrific to train on).
Shark, do you have the poster that accompanies the board?
Quote from: shark on June 27, 2012, 04:58:13 pmhttp://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Finger%20training I can see a business opportunity filling fingertips with d3o...
You need to see the picture in the context of the blog it came from to understand the point it was illustrating.
Quote from: Serpico on June 28, 2012, 10:18:40 amYou need to see the picture in the context of the blog it came from to understand the point it was illustrating.Fair dos, didn't really have the time. Edit: Not sorry, have now read article and i stand by my commmentsIt's just quite a common mistake to think that because you can open hand hang (albeit by the skin dragging) a very small edge that this will in some way translate to anything other than small holds that rely on this type of friction, utilising that exact griptype.If, on the otherhand you are half-crimping an 18mm edge to start with, then half crimping a 9mm edge (or smaller) will not be twice as hard as this.