[Sasquatch]

I think what's important to remember is that either approach will reward you with gains. You could spend hours and hours debating the benefits of either system, but in reality this is only fruitful if you're extremely close to your potential or on very, very limited time.

I've tried both systems and had good gains from both. My training partner has tried yet another system and he's had almost equal gains from that... so there it is!

No need to rewrite the rule book quite yet IMO.

Agreed, but it does make a difference to how you work them into a holistic training plan. 

The bolded part is VERY central to my training and planning which is why I try to drill down as deep as I can. 

[Tommy]

Well, that's easy! Just use Eva's method 

[Sasquatch]

Well, that's easy! Just use Eva's method 

I am ATM, so far so good. 

[benpritch]

Hello - one quick question, does anyone have a clever way of attaching weights to yourself? hanging 35kg off belay loop on my harness is stressing my lower back pretty badly. any ideas gratefully received thanks. 

[gme]

Only 35Kg???

Are you doing them one handed or something

[shark]

I think what's important to remember is that either approach will reward you with gains. You could spend hours and hours debating the benefits of either system, but in reality this is only fruitful if you're extremely close to your potential or on very, very limited time.

I've tried both systems and had good gains from both. My training partner has tried yet another system and he's had almost equal gains from that... so there it is!

No need to rewrite the rule book quite yet IMO.

 

If there is a choice of two similarly effective systems of a dull type of training then the obvious choice is to pick the one that takes the least time.

However, it is useful to have options so if (when) you get diminishing returns from one type of training you can switch to a new system for fresh stimulus.

[iain]

Hello - one quick question, does anyone have a clever way of attaching weights to yourself? hanging 35kg off belay loop on my harness is stressing my lower back pretty badly. any ideas gratefully received thanks.

I use Nibile's suggestion of hanging them off the back of the harness. The weight pulls directly through the back rather than pulling the hips forward.
Wear the harness backwards if you don't have a haul loop, makes for a good look too.

[benpritch]

Only 35Kg???

Are you doing them one handed or something

ha ha nope it's all the weights i've got in the house, off to decathlon to buy a couple of 25kilo plates then i won't have to use the 3mm edge cos it's hurting my fingers.

[benpritch]

Hello - one quick question, does anyone have a clever way of attaching weights to yourself? hanging 35kg off belay loop on my harness is stressing my lower back pretty badly. any ideas gratefully received thanks.

I use Nibile's suggestion of hanging them off the back of the harness. The weight pulls directly through the back rather than pulling the hips forward.
Wear the harness backwards if you don't have a haul loop, makes for a good look too.

i thought of that but it was a bit of a struggle clipping it to the front so don't know how i'd clip it to the back, tbh it's ok once i'm hanging from the edge.

[Nigel]

Hello - one quick question, does anyone have a clever way of attaching weights to yourself? hanging 35kg off belay loop on my harness is stressing my lower back pretty badly. any ideas gratefully received thanks.

I use Nibile's suggestion of hanging them off the back of the harness. The weight pulls directly through the back rather than pulling the hips forward.
Wear the harness backwards if you don't have a haul loop, makes for a good look too.

You not got an access harness Pritch? They usuallu have a metal D on the back that will take the weight no bother.

i thought of that but it was a bit of a struggle clipping it to the front so don't know how i'd clip it to the back, tbh it's ok once i'm hanging from the edge.

[Probes]

Hello - one quick question, does anyone have a clever way of attaching weights to yourself? hanging 35kg off belay loop on my harness is stressing my lower back pretty badly. any ideas gratefully received thanks.

If your just dead hanging.. a rucksack is an option?

[iain]

[i thought of that but it was a bit of a struggle clipping it to the front so don't know how i'd clip it to the back

Clip it kneeling then stand up?

[benpritch]

[i thought of that but it was a bit of a struggle clipping it to the front so don't know how i'd clip it to the back

Clip it kneeling then stand up?

probably just incompetence with karabinators and harnesses etc. ta

[Paul B]

I've had the same problem Pritch. I found using an old length of rope (helpfully lying around in the foundry) you can suspend the weight so it only really lifts off the floor when you're hanging.

It cuts out the akward part where my sparrow legs look like they're going to buckle getting to the bar/board and limits stressing the lower back.

[Nibile]

I'd avoid hanging the weight in the front, on the long run it really makes your back painful.
I had the same problem, but if you use a length of rope that's long enough, you don't have to squat to clip the weights, you just bend your knees a little, then the pull is much easier.
I'm currently using a weightvest and a rucksack to easily add and remove weight, but it stresses your shoulders a lot, it almost hinders the hang, I can't imagine using 30+ kilos.

anyway I'd go for assisted one armed hangs.

[Sasquatch]

Hello - one quick question, does anyone have a clever way of attaching weights to yourself? hanging 35kg off belay loop on my harness is stressing my lower back pretty badly. any ideas gratefully received thanks.

I'm doing the home based use whatever you've got version of weights, so I've got a backpack that weighs 50lbs(22kilos?), and two other bags that attach to the harness, one front, one back with 10 kilos each.  I've found 10 kilos to be pretty manageable....

She mentions at some point in her blog that if you're at 70% of your BW being added, then you should move to a smaller hold than the 18mm.  In general though, she says adding weight rather than reducing hold size seems to be the most effective way to gain strength.

[benpritch]

Hi Sasquatch, how much weight are you adding per session, I was thinking 1-2kg. If I go 2kg per session I'll get to 70% of my body weight in 4 weeks, does this sound realistic? or should I be less ambitious?

[Sasquatch]

Hi Sasquatch, how much weight are you adding per session, I was thinking 1-2kg. If I go 2kg per session I'll get to 70% of my body weight in 4 weeks, does this sound realistic? or should I be less ambitious?

I've been adding based on what I feel I can manage and tweaking as needed.  I'll add the weight and drop the reps to 3-4 for the first session of the week, then do the 5 reps the second session, then add weight again.  So far it seems to be working well.  My progression has been:

Week 1 - +32kg = 107kg total
Week 2 - +35kg
Week 3 - +40kg
Week 4 - +43kg = 119kg total

One thing I did find was to use total weight instead of added weight as a measurement.  I've been trying to drop body weight as well, so my total weight shift has been greater than what i've added in weight....

I have no idea if this is normal or not, as it's my first time through the plan.  Based on what she shows on her site as results from her study, this seems to be pretty normal.

[benpritch]

Hi Sasquatch, how much weight are you adding per session, I was thinking 1-2kg. If I go 2kg per session I'll get to 70% of my body weight in 4 weeks, does this sound realistic? or should I be less ambitious?

I've been adding based on what I feel I can manage and tweaking as needed.  I'll add the weight and drop the reps to 3-4 for the first session of the week, then do the 5 reps the second session, then add weight again.  So far it seems to be working well.  My progression has been:

Week 1 - +32kg = 107kg total
Week 2 - +35kg
Week 3 - +40kg
Week 4 - +43kg = 119kg total

One thing I did find was to use total weight instead of added weight as a measurement.  I've been trying to drop body weight as well, so my total weight shift has been greater than what i've added in weight....

I have no idea if this is normal or not, as it's my first time through the plan.  Based on what she shows on her site as results from her study, this seems to be pretty normal.

brilliant, ta

[michal]

Question:  When doing these hangs in half-crimp position, how is the index finger positioned?  Bent at the DIP joint (like an open-hand hang) or 90 degree bend at the PIP joint?  My natural inclination is to have it bent at the DIP joint, and I'm stronger that way, but I have heard of people making great gains by forcing training with a bend in the PIP joint.  This seems like it would translate better to crimps....

[benpritch]

Question:  When doing these hangs in half-crimp position, how is the index finger positioned?  Bent at the DIP joint (like an open-hand hang) or 90 degree bend at the PIP joint?  My natural inclination is to have it bent at the DIP joint, and I'm stronger that way, but I have heard of people making great gains by forcing training with a bend in the PIP joint.  This seems like it would translate better to crimps....

I was trying to keep index finger bent but it straightened as the seconds ticked away. I'm going to persevere with half crimped. No idea if this is a good idea but feel it is a more useful position for that finger climbing wise.

[Sasquatch]

Question:  When doing these hangs in half-crimp position, how is the index finger positioned?  Bent at the DIP joint (like an open-hand hang) or 90 degree bend at the PIP joint?  My natural inclination is to have it bent at the DIP joint, and I'm stronger that way, but I have heard of people making great gains by forcing training with a bend in the PIP joint.  This seems like it would translate better to crimps....

Dunno for sure, as I'm usually looking down or at the timer.  I know I'm not full crimp and I know I'm not full open, but as far as the actual position of my index finger, I'm not really sure.

[shark]

Dunno for sure, as I'm usually looking down or at the timer. 

Some form of metronome is better than looking at a clock - you might be able to find a download for your phone. As I do my hangs by a pc I use this:

[Sasquatch]

I use the "Seconds" app, that way I can set it for the whole workout.  It does a countdown beep for three seconds at the end of the 3 minute rest and at the end of hang, so it works pretty well.

[lagerstarfish]

shirley we can get some Wads to record themselves counting out the various regimes

I bet folk would pay a decent amount to hear the likes of Malc, Jerry, Beastmakers, Geraldine Taylor, Dense etc counting out their favourite routine with a few encouraging (or disparaging in the case of Dense) remarks as the session progresses

all in the name of charidy of course - could raise some good money for Cat's Protection League or Mountain Rescue etc

just saying like