Got a link to the slides, will add it to the Wiki if so.
Those weights must relate to a specific body weight, otherwise they'd be suggesting that women were only half as strong as men.They'd be more useful if they were relative.Would someone like to hazard a guess a to the bod weight they relate to?
Those weights must relate to a specific body weight, otherwise they'd be suggesting that women were only half as strong as men.[...]Would someone like to hazard a guess a to the bod weight they relate to?
I benchmarked myself (~71-73 kg), and was mostly of intermediate level. Max added weight was by far my worst “event”.
My first thought on looking at your table was that the max weight seemed out of kilter to the other benchmarks but put it down to personal bias/weakness.
I've had to knock it on the head for now as it was aggravating an old elbow grievance. Pretty gutted as i was getting stronger and don't really know what to do instead
64kg!!!!! That's not the weight of a mans body, that's a kettlebell
I was finding my lower back didn't enjoy the weight going over 35kg.
Is my maths right for the % of Body Weight added? Am I right in saying it's a 7.09% total gain so far?
Quote from: Luke Owens on February 05, 2013, 09:48:58 amIs my maths right for the % of Body Weight added? Am I right in saying it's a 7.09% total gain so far?I make it 7.4% absolute gain on your first session. Interesting that you are getting good gains on one session a week.
http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/dead-hang-training-on-small-edges.htmlYes, you are right! I am using the open grip in that picture It's my favorite position on small holds instead of the half-crimp. Personal taste aside, it's less harmful for pulleys and tendons.Personally, I started to use this grip type just after I completely torn my ring finger's A2 pulley (no functional trace of it was left! :-/). I had been climbing only for 2 years by that time, so I got really scared, and I made a decision: to work the slope grip for almost every type of hold in order to prevent more injuries. I love to climb...you know.Because of that, when I pull on small holds, I intuitively apply the open grip.If you read carefully the poster, you will notice that in the 1st line, 3rd column, I recommend the following:"Grip type used: starting with the half crimp or open crimp position and proceeding to training with the open hand crimp" So...half crimp is correct on small edges, but depending on the relative length of your fingers, specially of your pinkie (I think this fact affects the choice or tendency to use one grip type or other) and your objectives, you can train the half crimp or the open grip. But I strongly recommend you to try to get used to the open grip.
Good idea to back-off if injured. When you start again consider substituting doing the hangs with a drag rather than a half crimp. It's not necessarily half-crimp or nothing!. Confusingly open handing is Eva's favoured grip due to early injury. If you can I wouldn't leave it too long before getting back in the saddle as the early measured gains in the study reversed after a few weeks
Thanks Shark, interesting read from Eva's blog. Will definitely train with a drag next time. In regards to getting back in the saddle, does this mean getting back on the fingerboard in general (say, starting a repeater cycle) or getting back to weighted hangs specifically? Don't want to risk losing the gains!Would you recommend starting back with the 15kg main sets or drop the weight initially due to the injury?I'm going to aim for next Thursday (10 days after the strain) to get back on the board. I'm confident I should be alright as theres no swelling, or pain when hanging.
Hopefully any fingerboard work should at least maintain gains. As I haven't got a medical background or even had the slightest tweak from over 6 months of weighted deadhangs I'm not confident to offer specific suggestions about training after or whilst injured for anyone else. What I meant by getting back in the saddle is that in general terms leaving it too long before training again can be problematic. Of course this begs the question when is too soon or too long. Sorry I'm not being very helpful here.
is it generally the longer you've done the specific training for, the longer it takes for the gains to diminish?
