[Serpico]

Dunno for sure, as I'm usually looking down or at the timer. 

Some form of metronome is better than looking at a clock - you might be able to find a download for your phone. As I do my hangs by a pc I use this:

Here's a flash app for PC that I use for work: Metro.

For foot on campusing I bought a cheap clip on metronome, I set the time signature so that I move my hands on the upbeat.

[shark]

Hi Sasquatch, how much weight are you adding per session, I was thinking 1-2kg. If I go 2kg per session I'll get to 70% of my body weight in 4 weeks, does this sound realistic? or should I be less ambitious?

I've been adding based on what I feel I can manage and tweaking as needed.  I'll add the weight and drop the reps to 3-4 for the first session of the week, then do the 5 reps the second session, then add weight again.  So far it seems to be working well.  My progression has been:

Week 1 - +32kg = 107kg total
Week 2 - +35kg
Week 3 - +40kg
Week 4 - +43kg = 119kg total

One thing I did find was to use total weight instead of added weight as a measurement.  I've been trying to drop body weight as well, so my total weight shift has been greater than what i've added in weight....

I have no idea if this is normal or not, as it's my first time through the plan.  Based on what she shows on her site as results from her study, this seems to be pretty normal.

I can't track my progress as well you as I have switched to a different edge. On the new edge I benchmarked 20kg x 12 secs last Friday. On Tuesday I did 3x10 secs with 25kg and just now I've done it with 30kg 

I've not factored in the added 1kg+ of lard gained since Friday.

[b3n99]

Just completed my first fingerboard session with this plan and was a bit shocked by how much weight needs to be added. It turns out my 13 sec max is around 50% body weight added which is a real pain in the ass adding comfortably. Resorted to using paving slabs and bricks hung in an ikea bag along with a rucksack full of weights!!
Do people do this locked off or straight armed? I always tend to fingerboard with varying degrees of lock but with this found it just as tricky to keep the lock as to hold on.

[benpritch]

My arms are not straight, maybe 130-140 degrees. I am concentrating on grip position more than arms and maintaining 90 degree (half crimped) fingers. My pinkie will not join in at the mo and is basically straight hanging from 1st joint.
I managed to up the weight to 38kg this week from 35kg last week and did 5 sets rather than 3. Quite excited to see what gains i can make in four weeks.


ps i don't really know what i'm doing, the above is just what i've been doing and is highly likely to be wrong.
 

[b3n99]

I'v also got a 4 week period to try this out, definetly interesting, Hopefully will finally be able to deadhang a campus rung after!! Is th advice to hang with only a slight bend?

[benpritch]

dunno........Sasquatch seems to know what he's up to?

[shark]

I'v also got a 4 week period to try this out, definetly interesting, Hopefully will finally be able to deadhang a campus rung after!! Is th advice to hang with only a slight bend?

dunno........Sasquatch seems to know what he's up to?

Yes and no !

Another side effect is that my raw pulling strength is WAYYY better than ever, even as compared to when I was training wtd pull-ups.  I'm doing all my hangs at about a 30 degree elbow bend (has to do with how I mounted my board -  my stupidity is apparently going to have a benefit )

[b3n99]

I will stick with locking then!! Can't hinder it surely...

[abarro81]

With respect to the larger holds (thus - as far as I can see - eliminating what rodma was talking about earlier), why half-crimped? I've done any recent hangs open, on the logic that British lime is very crimp orientated, indoor holds tend to be half-crimp-pinch orientated, and thus fingerboarding is a natural place to train open (without having to drive over to the works to get a board with pockets; probably worth mentioning at this point that my goals are generally Euro focused and thus not as crimp focused as many's).

[shark]

With respect to the larger holds (thus - as far as I can see - eliminating what rodma was talking about earlier), why half-crimped? I've done any recent hangs open, on the logic that British lime is very crimp orientated, indoor holds tend to be half-crimp-pinch orientated, and thus fingerboarding is a natural place to train open (without having to drive over to the works to get a board with pockets; probably worth mentioning at this point that my goals are generally Euro focused and thus not as crimp focused as many's).

The grip position you train for is best for the grip position you use. Lopez recommends the half crimp as it is the predominant grip/hold in sport climbing and that is from her perspective as a Euro/Spanish climber. For added confusion she trains open handed on the smaller holds (as you would the smallest grips on the Beastmaker) and recommends that when you follow her programme you progress towards open handing edges - mainly, as I understand it,  because it is  safer to train open handed. Invidual morphology of your fingers has a bearing on how each person holds an edge too.

Interestingly talked to Awesome about the finger training programme he was set by Dave Mason. This included strict half-crimp deadhangs and although sceptical he said he got superb gains from this that were useful back on rock.

 

[Nibile]

I am no expert but I think that the half crimp is the best training prehension because:
- you can get no help from the thumb and from kinds of mechanic locks as in the full crimped prehension;
- you don't rely on friction or tendon stretch as in the open handed prehension.

Basically, I think that the half crimp uses the worst possible angle for the joints, in terms of pure force applied. In my experience, the problems I have with crimping are mostly due to the horrible sensation of pain in my joints.
I trained full crimped for years, as I said, and when I switched to half crimp and no thumb, all my routines went down of 2/3. That's why I think it's harder.
Just my personal opinion re. training. While climbing is another story.

[Three Nine]

I am always confused by what people mean by half-crimp? Is that like as open as you can be on four-fingers without dropping pinky or what?

[Nibile]

Trying to keep fingers bent at 90 degrees, for me. Obviously pinky will be more stretched and open.

[Stubbs]

I am always confused by what people mean by half-crimp?

Like a crimp but without your thumb over the top

[Paul B]

Trying to keep fingers bent at 90 degrees, for me. Obviously pinky will be more stretched and open.

Depends on if your index finger tends towards a "chiseling" position (Beastmaker Terminology). Can I ask (apologies if I've missed it), is there somewhere which definitively shows what she's recommending as a routine (apart from the poster nobody has)?

[shark]

Can I ask (apologies if I've missed it), is there somewhere which definitively shows what she's recommending as a routine (apart from the poster nobody has)?

Cobbled together from her blog:

Warm up
1.Moving the joints of upper body, shoulders, elbows, neck and fingers;
2.Following with 2-3 easy traverses for 2 to 5 minutes followed by 2-3 boulder problems with increasing difficulty; or several progressive sets on easy holds of the hangboard if we are at home;
3.And then 2-3 sets of 10 seconds with 40-50%, 80% and 90% of the load used the previous session.

The edge depth is fixed. Then you add weight so your maximum time is of 13'' but you hang for just 10''
20mm is a good starting depth progressing to 18 or even 14 mm.

4 weeks of 3-4-5-5 sets (i.e. 1st week 3 sets,2st week 4 sets... last week 5 sets) of 10-second repetitions with 3' rest between them; the edge depth would be 20 mm and the Effort Level (EL) 3, meaning that you would choose the amount of added weight that would permit you to hang for 13 (10+3) seconds but you hang only for 10 seconds; this is written 10''(3).

4 weeks of 3-4-5-5 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that you can hold for 10''(3) (effort level of 3) and resting 3' between sets. By the way, for the second week this would be expressed like this: 4 x 10''(3) :3'. The figure after the colon denotes the resting time.

The key aspect with the training is controlling and adjusting the training load. This is completely individual and you may have to adjust the training load every day or even set if you wish to progress. I recommend to keep the same EL throughout a period, and to increase/decrease the amount of weight/edge size every day and even every set as your strength and performance changes.

[Sasquatch]

Thanks Shark!

[dpb]

Trying to keep fingers bent at 90 degrees, for me. Obviously pinky will be more stretched and open.

Depends on if your index finger tends towards a "chiseling" position (Beastmaker Terminology). Can I ask (apologies if I've missed it), is there somewhere which definitively shows what she's recommending as a routine (apart from the poster nobody has)?

http://desnivel.com/revistas/escalar/escalar-n80 has an article by Eva containing her routines for both max strength and power endurance.

Do people do this locked off or straight armed? I always tend to fingerboard with varying degrees of lock but with this found it just as tricky to keep the lock as to hold on.

Her article says not to bend the arms, rotate shoulders, raise legs, start to do a planche as these are all signals that either the hold is too small or you are using too much weight.

[dpb]

PS I realise that linking to a Spanish mag not available in UK may not eb very helpfull.

I have a copy I'm happy to pass on if anyone wants a read.  Pick up from Derby

[Sasquatch]

I'v also got a 4 week period to try this out, definetly interesting, Hopefully will finally be able to deadhang a campus rung after!! Is th advice to hang with only a slight bend?

Whoah....

How are you able to deadhang a 15mm edge with 50% added body weight, but can't deadhang a campus rung?

Something doesn't seem right, a 15mm edge is about the size of most small campus rungs.

One of the pre-req's she lists for this training is to be able to hang a 15mm edge for 35 seconds, then test for max weighted hang...

[Paul B]

Thanks Shark etc.

Her article says not to bend the arms, rotate shoulders, raise legs, start to do a planche as these are all signals that either the hold is too small or you are using too much weight.

Do you mean a lever? I can't visualise how on earth you'd go towards a planche when hanging?

[dpb]

Oops, yes. A lever

[Nibile]

I'v also got a 4 week period to try this out, definetly interesting, Hopefully will finally be able to deadhang a campus rung after!! Is th advice to hang with only a slight bend?

Whoah....

How are you able to deadhang a 15mm edge with 50% added body weight, but can't deadhang a campus rung?

Something doesn't seem right, a 15mm edge is about the size of most small campus rungs.

I think the campus rung is a one armed hang.

[b3n99]

Ye sorry i did mean one armed, struggling with two would be a rather big issue...

[Sasquatch]

Makes much more sense.   My brain not functioning quite right today....