[dave]

Here's one for the oldschool OCD minus ten afficionados.

On Zippy's problem there's a couple of thing I've never been clear on, not least why it feels like the hardest 7b+ in the book by about two grades:

• At the start there's a little vertical foothold out right that is well used and blatantly its only possible purpose is for the first move of this problem, but its not mentioned as being "in" in the guide. Whats the official line on this hold - Harris?
• On the RH starting hold (the pinch) there's a little positive bit right at the top back of the hold where it joins the big flake. I've always just used the slopey bit of the pinch, but is this positive bit actually "in"? Just wondering if this may account in part for why it feels the living end for 7b+...?
• After the first move when you swap feet on the low edge, do most people go with right foot outside or inside edge on this? I can't decide which feels best. I presume any additional left footholds out left (like the big flake) are out for this move.

Appologies for if these seems like trivialities, but it is stoney afterall.

[fatboySlimfast]

My 10p worth
Little foothold is in
Slopey bit only of pinch
Personally i used to(to fat and weak now) go with r foot outside edge.

Obviosuly no big bit at the back of the sloper and the shit footholds for the left foot on the move to the pinch.

[dave]

Cheers L.

no big bit at the back of the sloper

Aye gladly this is reasonably common knowledge I think these days. Although anyone watching this video might be mistaken - BACK AROUND

[Andy B]

I bet Nacho will be gutted about that! As soon as he sees this thread he'll be booking flights back to blighty from whichever world class bouldering area he's in at the moment.
I'm not 100% that he is on the good bit there mind, as I can't imagine Joe letting him get away with that!

My take:

point one- done it both ways. The right foothold makes it a little easier.

point two-slopey bit only (squeeze it hard).

point three- outside edge for me. Other footholds defo out.

As an asside Nacho's doing (or not) the 7c+ version of the 7c version there, but these are actually easier than the original off the sidepull (unless you pinch with your thumb in the dish) as, if I remember correctly, the sidepull broke a bit quite a while ago.

[dave]

What good is doing 8c with this hanging over him?

I think that side off the block came off mid-90s. Having thumb in the pocket seems logical now.

[mrjonathanr]

I wonder who could you the DEFINITIVE answer to ZIPPY'S problem now...?

[Andy B]

You'd think that, but according to the guide FBSF knows nothing about Lucian's Undercut.

[mrjonathanr]

I hear you. I'm still waiting for John to give me the BETA on the JABP, it's been years now

[dave]

And brad pitt never returns your calls.

[a dense loner]

I was always under the impression that both zippys sidepull and the sloper prob nx to pinch 2 whose name escapes me were both classic 7c's. I was quite shocked when rupert gave them 7b+ in the guide. These both took me a lot longer than the 7c's in toms, at a time when I was ok on vertical walls n shit in roofs. The only thing that's changed is I'm no longer ok on vertical walls
Nacho hasn't done any prob on lime with official beta, which is why he's in hiding in spain

[fiveknuckle21]

I did that variation in the vid in about 15 minutes the other day, the hardest bit for me being holding the second hold (left hand sloper).  I'm sure it'd be almost possible footless once your settled in that position. Felt bob on for 7C. I thought I was doing the original when I did it

[a dense loner]

I'm obviously being a bit of a mong but only just watched vid n not been stoney for a long long time, what's different in that variant than normal?

[dave]

Pinch instead of sidepull on the top block.

[a dense loner]

Ah, forgot all about that. Nice one dave, sit start. God sometimes I wish I had an 8a.account. It was my goal for a long time to do a one armer on that pinch, never managed it, nor could I hold that pinch

[fatdoc]

My 10p worth
Little foothold is in
Slopey bit only of pinch
Personally i used to(to fat and weak now) go with r foot outside edge.

Obviosuly no big bit at the back of the sloper and the shit footholds for the left foot on the move to the pinch.

Yep.

[fatdoc]

Ah, forgot all about that. Nice one dave, sit start. God sometimes I wish I had an 8a.account. It was my goal for a long time to do a one armer on that pinch, never managed it, nor could I hold that pinch

Yes u could