[fried]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, first time back at my normal wall, so plenty of new stuff to try. Still getting some random sciatica pain. Luckily it's fairly infrequent but I must remember to keep up with the rehab exercises.
Wednesday - nothing

Thursday - Indoor, as above, pretty sweaty. Do rehab. If I do all the various exercises I'm supposed to do I reckon I'll have no time left to climb anything.

Friday - Indoor, feeling good, about the best I've ever climbed, all I have to do now is not get injured and maybe I can escape my year plateau.

Saturday - Lots of rain during the week, so search out somewhere quickish drying but yet shady. Take my new 5+6 guide to Isatis. It's a bit greasy and all my indoor training doesn't help in the least for topping out. My back's still being a bit funny, so I don't push it too much and end up repeating lots of blue problems, doing the bottom of red problems and then bottling the top out. Wander over to Sablons and do couple of problems I've never managed before. Lovely day out.

Sunday - Day off.

I need to get outside more....stay uninjured and hope for better weather.

weight 74.4kg

[Duma]

Ugh, again.

Sleep's all messed up from nights.
Sat 6m run, flatish, grass, 51min so slow, but good to see some daylight.
Booked appt to see physio re my wrist.

69-70.

[nai]

Summer Goals - 8a, E4, 10 limestone 7s (2 done)

M - 6x4 repeaters, failed at -3,-1,-2,-2s  final rep sets 1,3,5,6
Experimented with campussing, the proper stuff for finger strength rather than endurance, couldn't even do 1-2 so tried a foot on, match 1 then one hand 3-2-4-3-5-4-5. two sets each hand but not hard enough I think.
T - Foot on Campussing - 2 mins on, 4 off for 4 sets, felt too easy so reduced rest to 3 mins. Failed set 7 about -5s and set 8 about -20s.
W -  Assisted one arm hangs - R-3x10s, L-6,10,7s. Felt harder than it has, rest could be required.  Shoulders (ytml), back, arms, core
T - Foot on Campussing 4x4 60s on, 30s off, 2 min between sets. Failed rep 48/48 set 12, 44/48 (-10s) set 14, 15 & 16 both about rep 42 -15s
F - YTML shoulders, triceps, back, pullups, etc. tried to fingerboard but a very tired effort, going backwards, rest definitely needed.
S rest
S - tor, mostly wet.  Felt tired still. failed to do THFML as a warm up, got on Little Extra start, faffed around with feet before realising out it's a pop to the jug, too tired to close it out.  Disappointing.

Indifferent week, good to get something done in half-term but maybe did too much in the end, been three or four hardish weeks so definitely time for an easier one.  Planning to tie-in for the first time this year on Thursday, maybe do something tomorrow then rest up til then.

[Nibile]

Very intense week, classes in the afternoon are very tiring and I get home late. Very difficult to fit the training in but I managed it. Hard.
Mon: system. Wide lock offs, 6 mov x4 sets. Hard. Footless campusing 1 mov x5. Frontal lock offs, 5 mov x4. Underclings lock offs 3 mov x1. Very hard. Vol 8. Int 8+.
Tue: rest.
Wed: system. Same session as Monday, but doubled the volume on the footless bouldering and didn't do the underclings. Very hard. Difficult on skin too.
Thu: Beast. Two arms max hangs. Everything with 6 kg. Increased to 10 kg for front2 small, mid2 small, back2 medium, index monos, middle monos, back3 small, front3 small. Strong. Vol. 7+. Int. 9.
Fri: climbing class. Should have done less. Tried a few problems, very very tored. Smashed by the end, tweaked my back. Poor.
Sat: board. Tired. Very hot. Single moves and a couple of links on projects. Filed down all the good edges of the footholds!!!
Sun: bouldering. Hot. Not bad at all!!!

All in all good seek, both for the physical and mental effort to fit everything in.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

In which Alpinism proves to be unhealthy ...

M:
T: Wall, Gilching, routes. Trying some harder stuff. 6a, 5c, 6b+ (bolt to bolt), 6b+ (one rest), 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 6b+ (1 fall)
W:
T: Alpine multipitch sport, Buchstein. VI- & VI+ multipitch & a couple of VII- single pitch(*).
F: Cough, headache, sore throat
S: ditto
S: ditto

* VII- seems to be a strange speciality grade in the UIAA system. It should be equivalent to about 6a+, but seems to be used as a sort of "E1 6a" category. Lots of VII- routes turn out to have short but desperate cruxes that are way harder than the moves on normal, more sustained VII's or VII+'s

[chris05]

Rubbish week. Life getting in the way, no psych. Must be more like Nibile!

Managed a couple of 5m runs and an aborted trip to the Churnet. Hopefully get back on it this week, maybe.

[iain]

STG: More E4 onsights. Will get back to Under Duress when weather is rubbish elsewhere.
MTG: Given the way I've been climbing thoughts have turned back to Infinite Gravity. Looking to get on it as soon as I can after the bird ban ends so I know what I'm letting myself in for.

Weight: 62.1 this morning, 62.2 av. Still heading in the right direction.

M: Previously mentioned HVS/E1 trad day.
T: Rest
W: BM maintenance session. One arm strength work and 45 sloper max hangs. Not great but OK. Finished with 2x5min +5kg PE reps which was good.
T: Reading for bouldering. Was goodish for volume but, unsurprisingly perhaps, lacked the snap and didn't complete anything harder than V6ish. Probably should have gotten on circuit board given how much my fingers objected afterwards.
F: Felt ill
S: Felt worse
S: Felt a little better

After the highs of last weekend it was a strange week and didn't even feel like I was maintaining, at least I'm feeling better this morning.
The finger's are improving but need care and hard indoor bouldering is clearly a bad idea so I must be more disciplined about doing aero/volume work when I go to a wall.

Aim this week is to get consistent training days. Have a weekend of trad planned this weekend, Pembroke or Devon weather permitting for some more E4 onsight attempts.

[wsmith]

Week 22 of plan.

M. Kilnsey. Did UA first redpoint of the day. Dogged up the bulge and had time for 1 redpoint, came off at about halfway.
T.
W. Warwick. Tried some harder problems to get warm for 35min on campus board - not as strong as before. Some max throws and then laddering. Aerocap - 4x10min continuity traversing.
T. FB. 2x6 sets of repeaters. Felt ok.
F. Warwick. Ancap on 15 move problem - 12 reps. Stated with 2min rep rest and dropped it to 1min30 at rep 7. Fell on last 2 reps. Then 2 hours of routes - a few hard redpoints and lots of techy stuff.
S.
S. Garage. 1 hour of power - isolated hard moves, did a project move ive been trying for a while. 4 longish made up circuits at the end.

Good week. Starting to feel much fitter.

[tomtom]

I've forgotten! Though I think I got out on Monday, went to the wall on Friday, and got out to Burbage early on Sunday morning...

[duncan]

STG - Rehab. tweaked shoulder, get fit for Switzerland (not Magic Wood)
MTG - E5, 7b

Week one off climbing and fingers and wrist seem to be coming out in sympathy.  I think I am developing Littlefair's syndrome.

So I've been running, single-leg squatting, wrist-curling, blu-tac squeezing and anything else I can think of to keep my other bits occupied as the shoulder settles.  Oh and some gentle scapular stability stuff for the bit in question.  Getting better, should be able to do some Very Easy Trad in two or three weeks.

[duncan]

STG - Rehab. tweaked shoulder, get fit for Switzerland (not Magic Wood)
MTG - E5, 7b

Week one off climbing and fingers and wrist seem to be coming out in sympathy.  I think I am developing Littlefair's syndrome.

So I've been running, single-leg squatting, wrist-curling, blu-tac squeezing and anything else I can think of to keep my other bits occupied as the shoulder settles.  Oh and some gentle scapular stability stuff for the offending item.  Getting better, should be able to do some Very Easy Trad in two or three weeks.

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: Family shiz - Walk in't peak
T: Family shiz - Nowt
W: Board - AnCAp Circuit, extended this by 10 moves and worked out how to do one of the new problems I set recently. Hard.
T: Works - Brown 7c session. Repeated in 2 halves again, reached high point again (well it's actually low but you get the picture). Worked top section nuff times to get sequences dialed and climb as fast as possible.. Managed top section while absolutely trashed so reckon the training benefit was pretty good.
F: Wedding shizz in Shropshire - Nowt
S: Wedding shizz in Shropshire - Nowt
S: Wedding shizz in Shropshire - Long walk

Too much shit going on this week, nowhere near enough climbing - must try harder.

This week: SORT IT OUT!!!!

:D

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July, to 165lbs by end of August. (currently 173)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (1/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Quick session at the local boulder, felt good despite damp conditions, 2mile hike, 4 mile run 
Tuesday - 4x4 session, didn't feel particularly strong, FB test - 18mm edge max hang time of 45sec.
Wednesday - Got gnarly toe infection, started Antibiotics
Thursday - See Above
Friday - still babying the toe, did a max weight FB test 18mm edge, +75lbs 
Saturday - Ptarmigan Peak Bouldering - 8 mile snow slog hike, did 11 problems total including first new 7C+ of the year.   
Sunday - Archangel Bouldering - 6 mile nice dry hike, cleaned and climbed 5 new problems with my son.

Felt REALLY good and strong on Saturday. 

Mixed for a training week, but overall a kickass week!!!! 4 out of 7 days were awesome

[cheque]

M- Rest
T- Malham. Did Consenting Adults 1st redpoint of the session. YYFY.  Toproped Rose Coronary once at end of session- tired and couldn't do crux move but felt way stronger on it than on only previous session.
W- Rest.
T- Barbell shoulder presses and overhead squats. Used twice the weight I've been using (10KG  ) but felt good now I have the technique.
F- Drive to Wales. Soaked to skin pitching at tent at night.
S- Bedraggled tour of soaked North Wales venues. End up at Gogarth in the evening- amazingly it's dry but I've never been before and don't have a guidebook with me.  Psyched to return though!
S- Idwal Slabs. Rain starts as I'm 25m up barely-protected E1. Reverse the fucker and end up doing a HS is waterfall conditions. Drizzly and midgey Bus Stop Quarry evening- fall off a 6a+ and shut down by a 6c. Slate is hard.

Ticked an STG this week. Makes up for the frustratingly damp weekend!

[Muenchener]

S- Idwal Slabs. Rain starts as I'm 25m up barely-protected E1.

I hope you're not calling Tennis Shoe Direct "E1" 

[shark]

Whoops- bit late this week 

11.1-3

M.
T. Malham PM Cool but not quite as mint as sunday and on dog up struggled with sloper. 4 redpoints - 3 going for horn. 1 day rest not enough. Getting pretty slick on starting moves though. At end did Against the Grain, Appetite, Consenting, F&EE and Rose Coronary in succession to remind myself I can climb
W.
T.
F. Malham PM. Got there 4pmish rainy starting to seep. OK first go going for horn but faded thereafter powering out felt jaded. Time out required
S.
S.   

Deliberately not climbed since last friday and weight back up to 11st 5. Hopefully go back Saturday if dry and build up from there whilst still cool. Probably do a quick trip to France in a couple of weeks time.

[cheque]

S- Idwal Slabs. Rain starts as I'm 25m up barely-protected E1.

I hope you're not calling Tennis Shoe Direct "E1" 

  Can't be any easier if I backed off it... 

[tommytwotone]

Blimey - last week's a distant memory.

M - Nowt
T - Nowt
W - Wall session, mainly pottering at a very warm Depot
T - Nowt, went out for a curry
F - away in retro VW campervan on Yorkshire coast
S - see Friday
S - gave back retro VW campervan. Started looking for retro VW campervans for sale online.

[Muenchener]

S- Idwal Slabs. Rain starts as I'm 25m up barely-protected E1.

I hope you're not calling Tennis Shoe Direct "E1" 

  Can't be any easier if I backed off it... 

Well I agree you wouldn't want to fall off it slide down it. Definitive HVS 4c. When dry.

I'll stop now before this turns into ukc.

[nai]

M.
T. Malham PM . At end did Against the Grain, Appetite, Consenting, F&EE and Rose Coronary in succession to remind myself I can climb

Are these likley to remain dry in the heavy rain today/tomorrow?  Thinking of heading up tomorrow but worrried there'll be nowt dry to go at.  Would rather not drive 2 hours just to look at a wet crag

[shark]

M.
T. Malham PM . At end did Against the Grain, Appetite, Consenting, F&EE and Rose Coronary in succession to remind myself I can climb

Are these likley to remain dry in the heavy rain today/tomorrow?  Thinking of heading up tomorrow but worrried there'll be nowt dry to go at.  Would rather not drive 2 hours just to look at a wet crag

Report from yesterday:

"much drier than it was on Sunday. Yosemite area all dry, people on new dawn etc., oak looked fine as far as I could tell. Mint conditions generally."

[nai]

Cheers, looks likely then. Is that report from a FB group, likley to be updated later on today?