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[Peak][Upper Tor-Kinder South][Various][6A+-7A] (Read 3088 times)

Bonjoy

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As regular pb.info browser might have noticed I’ve recently added a collection of new problems to Upper Tor, the Kinder South crag overlooking the top of Grindsbrook Clough.
It’s a long steep walk in but the probs are decent and the views are great, plus with cloud and/or breeze you can get decent conditions early and late season.
Full details and more pics here - http://peakbouldering.info/crags/163

Good mix of high and low probs. Some scrittly rock, some super solid, hardly any greenness, landings generally very good. Scope for more problems, especially on the obvious boulders below the crag which I haven’t touched yet.

The problems:
   
Geeks Bearing Gifts 6A+
On the left end of the main section of the crag. A reticulated slab capped with a rounded bulge. Climb direct from a stand start with a tricky exit   
    
Once I Was 6B
At the left end of the main bit of crag. A highball wall undercut at its base, characterised by a series of shallow runnels. Climb the runnels and exit off right at the break (direct finish looks E4/5 with gear in the break).   
    
Three Pockets of Woman 7A
Midway along the crag and 2m left of the E1 Three Flakes of Man is a blunt undercut pocketed nose. Climb from a stand start. Traverse off left at the break.   
    
The John Gill Psyche Sit Start 6C
At the right side of the crag, a flat wall bounded on its left by a very rounded arete. Climb the pinchy honeycomb wall and small flakes. The stand start is a HVS 6a in the new guide.   

The following four probs are on a buttress 20m below the RH end of the crag:

Yibbo Shakey!  6C+
The very overhanging slanting rib in the middle of the left wall passing a ramp and pockets. 
 
Devil's Advocaat 6B+
The pocketed wall right of Yibbo Shakey!.   
   
Dangle Grinder 7A
The undercut bulging wall left of the prow. Use slopey sidepulls to gain a decent horizontal, continue direct.   
   
Rimming Roger 7A
The impressive highball prow is the line of the crag. Ape up decent holds to some exciting fridge hugging to gain the break and a topout on the left. Highball/E5 6b (ish)  FA Ned Feehally


Didn't get any decent pic of most things as mostly there on my own but did get some ok ones yesterday. This one is probably the best:


Ned on Rimming Roger.      
« Last Edit: June 13, 2012, 03:34:02 pm by Bonjoy »

Johnny Brown

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Nice work. Did you bag a repeat of Dry the rain whilst you were up there?

Somebody's Fool

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i remember that from the prAna ad. looked well charles

Bonjoy

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Was going to give it a punt, but then found a solitary wasp nesting in the start hold, I didn't want to disturb! Looks good. The flaky nose just to its right looked like it would be another decent highball.



Johnny Brown

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NICE! That's the best excuse I've heard in a looonngg time!

r-man

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    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
Good shots! They reminded me to go and see Prometheus...

Gritlad

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what are the midges like up on these edges at this time of year on a stillish day? thinking of maybe tomorrow or next weekend. the problems look good!

Bonjoy

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Same as most other grit crags really i.e. plenty of midges if it is still. Being so high up though you do stand a better chance of catching some breeze.
On the day I took that picture we aborted due to midges, but went for a walk on Kinder yesterday and didn't see any midges.

 

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