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first finger injury! (Read 2814 times)

barryh

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first finger injury!
June 06, 2012, 02:31:14 pm
Hello all, sorry if something similar has been posted already but had a look around the forum and didn't really find much. Anyway what happened was I'm using the beastmaker, dead hanging on the middle and ring fingers and something goes pop. I could hear it and feel it from my forearm, about two inches from my elbow and on the inside of the arm. There's pain at the base of the finger and in my forearm when I put even the slightest load on the ring finger, but I can still crimp and dead hang with all four fingers without any pain. Is it something I should have looked at or just cool it for a few days? Any advice would be appreciated.

slackline

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#1 Re: first finger injury!
June 06, 2012, 02:40:15 pm

Robsons

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#2 Re: first finger injury!
June 15, 2012, 12:19:03 am
As Slackline said - read through those! Pop and that's me out refers to me unfortunately! With over 2 months off completely and only recently starting to climb again, some pops are more serious than others...REST is hugely important, but go to A&E and try and get a scan lined up ASAP so you can get it properly diagnosed!!!
I completely snapped my A2 and now am trying to strengthen the remaining pulleys, but now know some problems that still may be fairly hard that can be worked...front 2 basically!!!

rodma

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#3 Re: first finger injury!
June 15, 2012, 01:49:11 pm
I completely snapped my A2 and now am trying to strengthen the remaining pulleys, but now know some problems that still may be fairly hard that can be worked...front 2 basically!!!

Sorry for hijacking Barry's thread a little futher but..........

I know that I replied to you at the time about your injury, but you still seem to be on a downer about it. I am now two and half years into exactly the same injury and am climbing as hard if not harder than i ever did. There is absolutely no swelling or inflamation left at all and I can make a tape pulley as tight as I like (which would feel brutal on any of my uninjured fingers), and this is a prerequisite for every session to prevent bowstringing (NOTE: I couldn't tape it until about 3 or 4 months after the rupture, due to pain, so did very easy climbing on it instead)

I appreciate that not all full ruptures will be the same either, but it is rare for all hope to be lost. Six months after the pulley incident, I broke my hook of hamate, tore the fascia in my palm and tore the tendons a little where they meet the muscles in the forearm all at the same time (well, over a period of several seconds). My physio (who is very good) basically told me that was the end for me climbing at any real level of difficulty, which put me on a mega downer for a bit, but my knowledge that the Malc had made a comeback from his similar injury was enough to make me realise that there was hope. For months I could hardly climb, couldn't really lift weights (my wrist could kindof dislocate when deadlifting and C&P meant the bar sitting on the broken bone/torn fascia which reaaaaaly hurt) and certainly could not campus, but over time and most importantly through regular use I started being able to train properly again and now it only bothers me a little. Unfortunately I have to wear those lovely fingerless gloves for weight training, since they have good padding that sits between the bar and the palm/heel of my hand.

Good luck with your recovery

barryh

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#4 Re: first finger injury!
June 18, 2012, 03:40:02 pm
Cheers for the replies lads. Finger has improved a lot since I first posted. I had it checked out, and the doctor reckons it's not that serious but going for a scan just to be sure. Contrary to most of the advice I've heard I went and done a bit of climbing the other day, everything felt fine and still climbing as hard as before,  but I'll definitely take it easy until this scan.  Anyway thanks again and hope you get back to full strength soon Robsons.

a dense loner

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#5 Re: first finger injury!
June 19, 2012, 08:35:25 am
Barry I refuse to believe that your finger went pop and now a wk later ure climbing as strong as ever on it, unless of course ure a terrible climber n use big jugs all the time. I would monitor it closely for a while yet. I slightly tweaked my left ring finger a few mths ago, this felt fine a wk later n I could do normal stuff however just loading it slightly while standing on the floor I can feel my forearm tendon knows something's up and every time I use it now I take a deep breath. Chances are you'll try using a hold in the same position you injured yourself n you'll realise it's not healed yet at all
Having looked at rodma's recent exploits I can confirm he's climbing as hard as ever

 

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