[Gritlad]

So today I went up and climbed a few things in Tegness quarry, specifically Pinnacle Quarry, pretty sure they are mostly new stuff and they are pretty good, here goes
Take all grades with a ladle full of salt
Emlyn's General Studies Field Trip (Got to be a better name surely??) Font 6c.... ish...
Reffered to as a "Overhanging technical project prow" on P104 of the froggatt guide.
Great bouldering up the prow with some interesting moves when the right hand gets slopey!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/6956201905/#in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/6810092194/#in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/6956203353/#in/photostream/
From the pinnacle. I had 2 mats and the landing was fine although 3 would be ideal.

Emlyn's Sports Studies Field Trip- Font 6c ish
The arete of the prow climbed on its left using holds out left and the tree to finish
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/6956204015/#in/photostream/

The Least Original Route- Font 6B
Sit start on the overhanging bit of the pinnacle, not that great.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77637597@N07/6810094330/#in/photostream/

There are also a few other things in the woods themselves.
From pinnacle quarry go back to your car (Say you have for whatever reason parked in the NT pay and display car park) and follow the obvious track past your car until cobbled stones lead to a stream, take the path on the right of the stream down, passing a 5+ problem pulling on a overlap on your left, keep going and then take the obvious stream crossing, 10 paces and Computer says No will be up on your left. Keep going along the path under the holly bush till a gap in the wall, turn to look up the hillside and on your right is a boulder (Do not approach directly, very soft ground that has bluebells on it) go right along the wall, then turn up left once youve passed the grass/bluebells.
From a sit start its about 6B, I didnt climb this one first, I got to it and chalk was on it e.t.c. anyone care to name it?

These could now be put together with White Edge or something for a pretty good day out. Would really like them to get repeated soon!

[slackline]

Prow


2012-03-05 11.22.52 by breadbin123, on Flickr


2012-03-05 11.24.04 by breadbin123, on Flickr


2012-03-05 11.26.40 by breadbin123, on Flickr

Emlyn's...


2012-03-05 11.59.44 by breadbin123, on Flickr

Least Original


2012-03-05 12.20.07 by breadbin123, on Flickr

[Gritlad]

cheers slackers 

[leeroy]

good work emlyn  ill be sure to go and check them out at some point, was computer say no clean?

[Gritlad]

cheers lad, The Prow one is really good! hhmm pretty clean, could have done with a little brush but it was alright

[tomc]

I cleaned and climbed the 5 plus up there last summer when out walking the dog and cleaned up the little sitter problem. Went up a few times
Wihout a pad and tried it but fell off the top hold the other night and split my tip so left it. Thought it was more 6cish to match the little ramp if thats what you did? No names for any of them yet!

[Gritlad]

ah cool, what did you think to the prow thing?
I tried to match but that rock does seem to rip your skin! just used the arete today.

[tomc]

Never took enough enough pads for the prow - looks
Real good though - good effort! I see what you mean about the arete so ive
Still got the ramp match to go then! Will send you a message an show you other bits if you keen...

[Gritlad]

phew, thought you had done the prow too then 
ahaha its a race for the first ascent 
yeah that would be cool, many other things tucked away up there?

[Andy B]

I had spotted Emlyn's Sports Studies Field Trip, a while ago, but not got round to trying it. It looks good, if I remember correctly. I thought it was going to be harder than 6c, but only looked at it from the ground.

Is the 6b sitter the project that you were telling me about Tom?

[tomc]

Andy banks.....
Yeh but gritlad did a different thing... Theres a face that i ripped a tip on and a big chunky arete thats probably 6a ish. But sitter is 6cish im sure. Its harder than the kid
And andy banks magical cratcliffe mystery tour left hand version - the one with you where theres a photo of you with your tongue out
X

[Gritlad]

Yeah, its got abit of funky beta on it 

[Andy B]

Andy banks.....

Sshh. I'm incognito!

And andy banks magical cratcliffe mystery tour left hand version - the one with you where theres a photo of you with your tongue out
X

This sentence makes no sense to me, but thanks for the kiss.

[tomc]

Yeh i didnt think it was him, the andy banks i know cant do english. And he definately wouldnt be awake this late....
That kiss was for your climb for fun jumper anyway - nothing more...

[dave]

Andy banks.....

Sshh. I'm incognito!

The guy who looks like a greek second hand car salesman, or craig david's whippet trainer?

[tomc]

Finally went back up to the boulders this evening with Gritlad after growing some skin back on my left hand and despatched the problem on the boulder he described beyond computer says no.
Sit start on good holds with a heel hook - make your way up left to the lovely crimpy ramp feature with a match and a move to jugs and a boss to top out...
Esoteric location but excellent quality rock a good addition to a circuit. Photo and vid to follow...
6c ish
Called 'Sub Rocc'

Tom Cain 8/5/12
 

[Gritlad]

second Tom on the rock being good, a few other problems too close to the ones ive describied, with abit of traffic it can make a lovely circuit 

[Drew]

Tom Cain 8/5/12

He's come back from the future!

[tomc]

Yeh fair play - I thought it was may not march today.....

[grumpycrumpy]

Yeh fair play - I thought it was may not march today.....

Just today ? ........

[tomc]

no just yesterday as i wrote it last night

June tommorow is it?

[leeroy]

Went and did both all these problems last night with the gritlad. both sides of the field trip arete are genuinely very good, and both 7a i reckon. theyre well worth a visit especially seeing as they can be combined with froggatt woods very easily. added a sitter to the left side at soft 7a+. sub rocc is a nice 6c in a beautiful setting amongst the bluebells and could be combined with computer say no (if it were clean - will get on it).

I'll stick a video on later when its uploaded, hopefully this will encourage some traffic on these great problems.

[Gritlad]

Hope Nathan doesnt mind me posting this up
 

Nice video showing some nice probelms.
 Well worth a trip up one evening.
All info is on Peak Bouldering too with some directions e.t.c