UKBouldering.com

Crafnant bouldering (Read 3721 times)

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
Crafnant bouldering
May 24, 2012, 12:20:24 pm
Is the bouldering fairly obvious to find in the Crafnant? I've looked on-line and can see it's the obvious big boulder field. Is the block with Cruella on it the main thing to head for? I've climbed up at Clogwyn yr Eryr so kind of know the lie of the land, and am assuming you park in the same spot near that gate, but head up valley, rather than towards Clogwyn yr Eryr?

Also, how child friendly is it? The landings look 'interesting', so I'm assuming not very! But maybe some nice picnicing spots down from the boulder field? Any help much appreciated - ta.

(Finally, where else is good to boulder in N Wales?! I know the Pass/Wavelength pretty well and have been to Sheep Pen and the spot with the nice rock by the campsite in Ogwyn. Cave of course. Not been to Caseg boulder. Looking for stuff from 7a - 7c.)

Thanks.


Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#1 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 24, 2012, 05:05:33 pm
Check your PMs.

The Crafnant boulder field is not child friendly at all - after rain it's not very adult friendly either!

That said there is some pleasant grassy ground adjacent to the boulders.

For 7A -7C stuff:

Caseg is limited but superb.

Braichmelyn (also in Bethesda) is good if you like crimpy wall climbing.

George's Crack/Lily Savage area is very good.

There are a series of micro venues with excellent problems in and close to nant gwynant:

Mallory boulder, Clogwyn Bustach boulders, Elephantitus, Craig y Llyn. Easy to hit a few in succession. The delightful RAC boulders are nearby too - only a few 7s but plenty of top quality low/mid grade stuff.

The Boss Cuvier block in Beddgelert forest is excellent, but we got midged there the other night.

I'm assuming you know about Porth Ysgo - lots of new grade 7 problems there in the last few years so always worth another visit, although will be roasting there at the moment.

Tan y Grisiau and Craig Penial above Blaenau have some really good 7s.

Have you been up on top of Little Orme - some excellent 7s there. There is a sign at the nearby Angel Bay asking visitors not to disturb the seals so maybe give this a miss for now.

I could go on but I'm guessing you're not here for that long...


T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
#2 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 24, 2012, 05:40:10 pm
Cool - thanks Simon.

Never been to Porth Ysgo but assumed it is not a place for a toddler?

Visiting this weekend, so guess we need to be somewhere with a breeze...

dave

  • Guest
#3 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 24, 2012, 05:47:30 pm
You could literally lose a toddler at ysgo, hard to imagine a less kid friendly crag.

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#4 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 24, 2012, 06:46:12 pm
We've been there with Mini Obi Wan No.1 with no issues. The beach on the left made a pleasant base.

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#5 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 25, 2012, 09:04:17 am
Cool - thanks Simon.

Never been to Porth Ysgo but assumed it is not a place for a toddler?

Visiting this weekend, so guess we need to be somewhere with a breeze...

As Andy says there is a good beach (at low tide) next door to the main Ysgo boulder field.

Your best bet for good conditions will be high up and in the evening. I was up at the Meadow on the Wavelength hillside last night and when we got there at 6.30 it was still scorcio, but in the last hour of light it came good. No midges either.

If you are out during the day it's probably best to drop your grade and just go on a circuit of classic grade 5s and 6s. More fun than greasing off harder stuff and wrecking your skin.

ducko

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 750
  • Karma: +39/-6
#6 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 25, 2012, 09:14:39 am
crafnant is not a good spot for kiddies at all! plus with the temperature as it is at the moment most things will be pretty much unclimbable, as recommended do a nice easy circuit

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
#7 Re: Crafnant bouldering
May 25, 2012, 11:03:41 am



Your best bet for good conditions will be high up and in the evening. I was up at the Meadow on the Wavelength hillside last night and when we got there at 6.30 it was still scorcio, but in the last hour of light it came good. No midges either.


Ah, good on the midges. Yep, given the forecast the plan for Saturday is to take it easy around Wavelength and hope there's a breeze. Never done the Barrel Trav, but can't say it's looking like conditions to be uber psyched!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal