[Probes]

I ve only been the doloys in September. Never had any weather issues, apart from the forecast rain. These are a few good routes Ive done that can be done with very little doloys experience, especially the tofana route, one of my best climbing experiences... just climb quickly..

You cant not love the place. 

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=68856  Great route, walk off ledge half if you need. Check the view of the messner route on the side of the 2nd tower as well.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=125885  Amazing route, easily done in a day, top half is spectacular. Walk out the back and up a scree to your left to exit, around to the hut and path down. Dont! go the 'obvious' short way which is right wards.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98617  you can do the first 8 or so on the first finger and ab back around 4 abs on rings back to your bags. Standing on top is something else. Weird cable pod car up to 15mins walk to bottom of route.



Ukc does have its uses after all.

[slackline]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=68856  Great route, walk off ledge half if you need. Check the view of the messner route on the side of the 2nd tower as well.

Did that last year, was really good (although probably a bit easy for Paul B, unlikely to scare his significant other!), marred slightly by some Russians who were knocking rocks down as they jugged up following their leader (German couple between us bailed from ledge 'cause of this, the weather deteriorating and being cold due to slow Russians).  Messner route looks amazing and will definitely have it in my sites next visit.


A few snaps from that day....


Third Sella Tower by slack---line, on Flickr


Posed? by slack---line, on Flickr


The "Team" by slack---line, on Flickr


Third Sella Tower - Vinatzer Route by slack---line, on Flickr

[danm]

I found the rock in the Dolomites just like most other great mountain rock climbing areas I've been to - generally good with the odd bit to keep you on your toes. Mind you, I only climbed 3* classics!

I found the limited number of bolts refreshing - this does make one notable difference to many other areas, which is if you need to retreat you'll often need to leave a lot of tat and/or gear behind. This is because most belays seem to have a couple of reasonable pegs in situ but these aren't equalised. To me this made routes feel like a souped up version of UK mountain trad, but on Pembrokesque rock. Win!

We vanned it because the campsite in Cortina was pretty expensive, and it took a while to drive up the pass to climb (we were crap at getting early starts!) Wild camping isn't tolerated, but roadside camper vans are.  We then went and stayed with a mate near Canazai, which I prefered as a base.

The routes we did would be a breeze to you Paul, but I'd still recommend some of them as they were very good:

Primo Spigolo, Tofana di Rozes V+, done in a day easily
Vinatzer, 3rd Sella V+, day route, descent needs a good head as some exposed downclimbing
Messner, 2nd Sella VI-, 8 pitches of pure class, can be wet needs time to dry
Steger, Cima Catinaccio (Rosengarten), VI-, simply amazing day out, early bus or stay in hut.

There is a whole world of equally good stuff, especially with your skills. Have a great time!

[HaeMeS]

Grab a copy of this, it should cover your needs nicely...

Noooooo! It's the worst guidebook I know of. Well, maybe not all routedescriptions are crap, but the bigger more serious routes have very misleading descriptions and some serious mistakes. I doubt the authors have climbed (anywhere near) these routes. What bothers me most, is that the easier routes get decent topos, so you're led into believing the same aplies for the more serious routes. Burn the book.

I met some guys trying to climb Il Pesce. They had the old alpine club guidebook. It has shows a handfull of routes on the southface. In reality there are a 100+ routes. They got lost, got into dangerous loose rock and could have gotten themselves killed. Two attempts, got nowhere. Should have bought the 'new' Giordana Guidebook instead and climbed the route.

My advice: Buy topoguide.de, buy versante sud for Marmolada, buy lobo-edition if you need a book that covers most routes. Check planetmountain, UKC  and you'll get to climb the best routes and have more fun. Unless you enjoy the suffering 

Want to climb something really big? Go Pale di San Lucano...

[dod]

As a back up if it rains or you get scared there is some entertaining bouldering to be had in the boulderfield in the bottom left hand corner of slack lines second photo. We found stuff 4A to 7C. Called Ciudad del Sassi or something. Also an interesting (good rock, length, steepness and moves but totally artificial) perma dry  sport crag in that sella area too. Its on the right as you drive up from the valley (with the marmolada behind you). Park a few hundred metres after a restaurant when you get to a bridge over a river. Follow the river upstream for 10 mins and you'l see it. 6b to 8b. features marmots that were so tame tourists were turning up to feed and stroke them.

[psychomansam]

Good evening assorted rock-tomes

Hoping to make it to Dolomites in August (have school hols) to do some climbing, walking and via ferrata. Looking to multi-pitch HS-VS (as don't want to push it on big routes) and to climb sport 5+ - 6c. Some really easy bouldering would be great too.

Just wondering if anyone would have any recommendations for where / what guide book / what routes are winners. Just climbing a bit lower grades than the other recommendations here.

Cheers

[Muenchener]

I'm also planning to head out for a week in August. Aim this year is to gain solid experience - routefinding, quick efficient ropework, descents etc. - on some easier classics in the UIAA V-ish range, with a view to then being more ambitious on future trips.

Would be well pleased with things like Spigolo del Velo on the Cima della Madonna, Decima and/or Bonnetti on Masenade. Might contemplate sticking my neck out into VI territory (Messner on 2nd Sella, Big Micheluzzi) if everything goes just right.

My advice: Buy topoguide.de

 , best alpine guidebooks I've ever seen and particularly good wrt warning the unwitting about traditional Dolomite sandbag grades

[Fultonius]

Shoes shoes shoes?

I need a new pair of shoes, so I might as well make them good ones for the dolomites. 

I reckon I need something fairly edgy, medium stiff but sensitive and possibly velcro to get them off quick at belays.

5.10 whites "should" be good, but my last pair have been horrific - too big (despite being same size as last pair) and went horrendously soft. I might try old scholl Anasazi velcros.

Also thinking Scarpa Vapour Velcros?

I've never found Sportivas to fit too well.

So, any thoughts?

[Paul B]

you could always check out the shoes thread I started for exactly this thing.

[Bonjoy]

Steger, Cima Catinaccio (Rosengarten), VI-, simply amazing day out, early bus or stay in hut.

It was a long time ago now and I hope the newer guides are better, but I remember getting very pissed off with our guide getting left and right mixed up on two route descriptions!

[Paul B]

can you remember which guide that was?

I seem to have the Classic Dolomites (more than one edition) - the latter has additional notes on lines I've checked.
Alpine Club (east + west)
Drei Zinnen (in Deutsch but hopefully I'll nab the English copy tomorrow)
Marmolada south face (in Italian).

People have been very generous lending bits of kit and guides so we've now got a set of micro spikes each should we feel it necessary to carry them.

Stu recommended Gelbe Mauer to me (it might be of interest to others):



it looks great but I think I'll have a hard time convincing my better half due to its consistency at around 7a.

[Probes]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=68856  Great route, walk off ledge half if you need. Check the view of the messner route on the side of the 2nd tower as well.

Third Sella Tower - Vinatzer Route by slack---line, on Flickr

Nice! You get a idea of the scale of the thing.

Yes me too, the Messner route is always in the back of my mind..  if I ever get back out there.

[Bonjoy]

Can remember the name of the guide, it was A5 possibly with blue cover, a selected classics guide to the whole area, might have been alpine club

[Fultonius]

you could always check out the shoes thread I started for exactly this thing.

 

[Will Hunt]

Could everyone going out this Summer please read this? Much obliged.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20228.0.html

 

[Muenchener]

if you need to retreat you'll often need to leave a lot of tat and/or gear behind.

Pegs? Most German-language guidebooks recommend carrying some, and a hammer, for impromptu retreats. What do people think? I suspect they're mainly thinking about harder routes, and am not enthusiastic about the cost & weight.

My targets this year are going to be well-travelled trade routes in the V to lower VI range, where I expect most belays will have reasonable in-situ pegs. I plan to carry plenty of 7mm tat, and won't find it too tragic if I also expend a few of my large collection of 1980s-vintage Rocks.

[Will Hunt]

Similar thoughts. I've never owned or placed a peg so wouldn't be desperate to do it as much because I might not make a good placement as any other reason.

[Paul B]

For anyone else looking to go to the Dolomites in June (a few people have asked in PMs) I'd say there a few large obstacles in the way:

1) The majority of the Refugio's are closed (or just opening), for the Marmolada this includes the Falier hut (closed) and the other option (closed). The camping Malga Ciapella is also closed (but looked good).

2) Almost all of the lifts are closed. Again, for the Marmolada this meant that we weren't sure if the lift station would be open to use as shelter.

These two things combined meant that to have a successful day on the Marmolada we were going to have to walk in, climb 20 odd pitches (more for Tempi Moderni) and then descend the Glacier by one of the two routes. It was a nonstarter.

Routes such as Tofana di Rozes were holding snow on the descent and the only other climbers we encountered (Eastern Bloc) had no intention of topping out, they were doing some of the more modern routes that were bolted for abseil. I've got no idea where you get the topos for these routes (they seem to start at about F7a).

Unfortunately on the best day they managed to get above us and with the relative comfort of bolts, the second didn't seem to have any qualms about throwing some rock our way. We had to retreat and sulked over at Cinque Torri instead.

I've got no way of backing this up but it also seemed that there were quite a lot of freshly loose stuff; blocks with clearly worn gear placements were quite keen to part company with the rock.

I think Duncan was right re: the quality of the easily accessible routes. In my opinion Cinque Torri is pure crap. What's worse is that the Classic Dolomites guide has incorrect topos for this area! If it can't get it right here I was a bit concerned about using it on anything serious. Versante Sud guides seemed much much better but then again these only cover a few select areas.

We had another day of dubious weather where we sat below Tre Cime unable to see the rock from about 5m away with forecasted rain, there were no other climbers. In the end we decided to mission it over to Mello where we managed one route (one brilliant route with bulletproof granite), then we sat in Verona and sulked/indulged in vast quantities of alcohol.

There were a few other people from Sheffield driving out for the Hasse leaving today. I don't know if they're still going but if so I hope things have improved.

[slackline]

What's worse is that the Classic Dolomites guide has incorrect topos for this area! If it can't get it right here I was a bit concerned about using it on anything serious. Versante Sud guides seemed much much better but then again these only cover a few select areas.

I wonder if that is attributable to the authors of the guide getting it wrong, or those who translated it (or proofed the translation, its was originally published in German). 

[Paul B]

The topo is drawn wrong so I'm blaming the authors.

[abarro81]

Should've gone to raven tor.

[HaeMeS]

Pegs? Most German-language guidebooks recommend carrying some, and a hammer, for impromptu retreats. What do people think? I suspect they're mainly thinking about harder routes, and am not enthusiastic about the cost & weight.

My targets this year are going to be well-travelled trade routes in the V to lower VI range, where I expect most belays will have reasonable in-situ pegs. I plan to carry plenty of 7mm tat, and won't find it too tragic if I also expend a few of my large collection of 1980s-vintage Rocks.

I've never carried hammer or pegs nor felt I needed to. Except on a seldom repeated route in the Pale di San Lucano. We retreated and had to leave (a lot of) cams/nuts. This was the first time I  brought a hammer and pegs, but could not find cracks small enough to place pegs... Think of the routes in the Dolomites  as normal trad routes. Why bring a hammer if you're prepared to leave your gear in the unlikely event of a retreat?

Don't believe the recommendations for gear in older/local guidebooks. I've done quite a few routes with local climbers on the same route. A typical local rack consists of some draws, 3 or 4 cams, a handful of nuts and plenty of cord - even on big and serious routes. They tend to run it out and have absolute faith in shoddy belays consisting of two rotten pegs that have been in-situ for 30-odd years. In stead of using normal gear to reinforce a belay some bring a hammer/pegs. You will probably find no need to.

I bring a double rack of cams (mostly small) and plenty of long draws. Small selection of off-set nuts (DMM) as well. Totem cams, aliens or hybrid cams are my favorite gear in the Dolomites. Cracks and pockets tend to be irregular so hybrids work particularly fine. Bring plenty of slings and kevlar cord as well. I'd rather bring a lot of gear - and be able to get enough gear in or simul-climb for long stretches - then run it or climb slowly because of the lack of protection.

[duncan]

+1 regarding pegs (and gear in general). 

Sorry it wasn't the most productive trip Paul, chalk it up to experience/reconnaissance.

The Gelbe Mauer looked very good from the vantage of The Yellow Edge.

[HaeMeS]

1) The majority of the Refugio's are closed (or just opening), for the Marmolada this includes the Falier hut (closed) and the other option (closed). The camping Malga Ciapella is also closed (but looked good).
2) Almost all of the lifts are closed. Again, for the Marmolada this meant that we weren't sure if the lift station would be open to use as shelter.
These two things combined meant that to have a successful day on the Marmolada we were going to have to walk in, climb 20 odd pitches (more for Tempi Moderni) and then descend the Glacier by one of the two routes. It was a nonstarter.
3) Routes such as Tofana di Rozes were holding snow on the descent and the only other climbers we encountered (Eastern Bloc) had no intention of topping out, they were doing some of the more modern routes that were bolted for abseil. I've got no idea where you get the topos for these routes (they seem to start at about F7a).
4) What's worse is that the Classic Dolomites guide has incorrect topos for this area!
5) Versante Sud guides seemed much much better but then again these only cover a few select areas.

1) Falier has a 'winterraum' which is open all year round. Space for (at least) six. 5 min. above the hut is a bivy-cave but this can be wet from snowmelt and the ceiling will star to drip in/after heavy rain. The campsite IS good! It's possible to go (and pay) for a shower (and a beer) after a climb - even when not at the campsite.
2) This is hardly an issue when there is snow on the northern slope/glacier. With snow you can run/slide down from the summit to the pass in half an hour.
3) going down from Tofana (summit or pillars) in the snow isn't to difficult. Be sure to take the new/safer descent from the 1st, 2nd, 3rd pillars: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38550 You can find topos of almost all of the modern routes in the Tofana area on Planetmountain: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/home.php
4) This guidebook is crap. The topos of the routes on Marmolada are ridiculous.
5) These are way better. Wagenhals (lobo-edition.de) covers most of the Dolomites. The Topoguide.de  guidebooks contain a selection but are very good.

[Paul B]

+1 regarding pegs (and gear in general). 

Sorry it wasn't the most productive trip Paul, chalk it up to experience/reconnaissance.

The Gelbe Mauer looked very good from the vantage of The Yellow Edge.

We knew it was a gamble (so I can't complain), it didn't pay off. Removing Luna Nascente from the snagging list (got lost on this a few years ago as I didn't realise you down-climbed from the flake) was almost worth it and certainly reminded me how much I'd like to revisit the area (Qualido wall looks incredible so too does Oceanea, time for some BIG gear).

My main issue is I think I'll now have a harder time convincing my good lady that its worth another gamble 'in season'. However, she seemed equally pissed off as the larger routes were quickly scrubbed from our list. We were a bit sluggish on the short route we did too, probably due to bickering about the earlier choice to abandon Tofana.

1) Falier has a 'winterraum' which is open all year round. Space for (at least) six. 5 min. above the hut is a bivy-cave but this can be wet from snowmelt and the ceiling will star to drip in/after heavy rain. The campsite IS good! It's possible to go (and pay) for a shower (and a beer) after a climb - even when not at the campsite.
2) This is hardly an issue when there is snow on the northern slope/glacier. With snow you can run/slide down from the summit to the pass in half an hour.

Thanks, that's useful to know. However, with the weather we wouldn't have walked in to the Winterraum in the biblical rain on Monday for the one good day one Tues.

The only question now is where do we go in October...