[ali k]

Planning to stop off in Targassonne for a week or so this summer, but just wondering if there's any other stuff worth checking out in the Ariege whilst we're in the area?

I know there's supposed to be loads of climbing around there but most of what I've seen seems to be fairly average-looking euro slabs, which I'm not too fussed about. Are there any decent crags actually worth going to? [bearing in mind I live in Catalunya]

And is the Dent D'Orlu worth climbing? It doesn't look that inspiring, but it's always mentioned when the Ariege comes up.

[Steve R]

Hi Ali,
Having spent some time in ariegeland here're my opinions and thoughts:

There're good crags up the Vic-de-sos valley.  eg. Genat and Alliat are pretty good and steep.  Genat particularly is in a really nice setting and has good routes.  I only climbed low-mid 7s but I think there're good hard routes here.  Some are quite manufactured though I think.  As you go further up the vic-de-sos, the rock becomes granite.  There're plenty of sectors/routes up there but mainly easier angled and lower grades.  There're some granite boulders developed at Laramade too.  Never climbed on them but looked decent when I had a walk round.

I liked the climbing at Calames which is in the Saurat valley.  The climbing here felt quite old school and hard to me.  Often less steep, small holds, etc. but nice rock and a really nice place generally.  Nearby (sort of opposite) is devers le sedour - a good steep hard crag.  Lime/conglomerate mix.  Classic 7c+ 'Ariege against the machine' and plenty of hard routes going up from there - there's  9a here I think.

Sinsat's a classic venue and looks impressive.  Never climbed there but good birdwatching.

As you say, Orlu always gets mentioned.  I think this is largely because the East face is a punter's paradise - nice big slabby granite wall with trad and sport routes plus a summit experience.  It struck me like a bit of a european Idwal.  The other face has longer and slightly harder routes.  Did one of these and it was quite a miserable experience.  Endless granite slab bolted pitches in full sun =  painful feet, dehydration and general discomfort.  I'm sure they're really good if you like that sort of thing.  There's granite bouldering at Orlu as well however.  I haven't done any but I was checking out some photos recently and looks really promising with problems into low 8s.... Also, if it's roasting at Targasonne, these orlu boulders might be a cooler alternative.


Overall, I'd guess that the sport climbing's generally really good by UK standards but likely to be a step down from what you're used to.  ie. none of the granite climbing ariege side was as good as Cavallers say; I guess it's a similar story when you compare the lime crags.   I'm heading back out to the area next week for a couple of months,  mostly working but some climbing too.  I'll be getting to the bouldering spots on weekends so will be able to let you know how I rate them soon.   Anyway, hope that's of some use and hopefully catch up when you're in the area!

[ali k]

Thanks Steve, that's great info.

Worth knowing about the Dent d'Orlu - that's exactly what I had pictured so might give it a miss! As for the limestone, it sounds like it might be worth a day or two at least, to visit somewhere new if nothing else.

The bouldering was what I was most keen for but we'll be there at the end of June, just stopping off briefly on the way back to the UK (for the wedding  ), so I was a bit concerned Targassonne may be too hot then. Had a quick look at those Orlu boulders and they seem worth checking out so will be keen to know what you make of them and the other spots when you've had a play...

[duncan]

Le Quiè de Sinsat looks very impressive and I'd like to go back there for the longer routes. Calames is good, mostly easy slabby multipitch but also some single pitch routes in caves up to 8c.  Nothing special compared to Siurana.  Both are south facing and could be pretty warm in summer.  The Dent d'Orlu is in a very pleasant mountain valley setting and at a higher altitude so should be cooler.  Pyrenees Idwal sounds about right: very slabby and broken, it didn't really appeal to me even though I am very much into that sort of thing.  I didn't investigate the bouldering.

[Palomides]

I've had a brief afternoon on the Orlu boulders - lots of shade and reasonably cool due to the river nearby (I've seen some comments about mosquitos but that didn't seem to be a problem when I was sthere in August). The stuff I did was pretty good, with a mix of shorter stuff and a few scary high things. Worth a day, maybe not two (unless the blocs I didn't see have a lot more on them).

The rock is smoother and less aggressive on the skin than Targasonne, but there's not so much to go at. It's also a lot lower down than Targasonne.

If it's chucking it down up around Font Romeu, then it's worth heading down to see. I think Laramade is similar, although I haven't been there.

There's a topo to the Orlu boulders that was available in the Tarascon Tourist Office. I bought a copy but left it here : http://www.gitedelaborde.co.uk/ for the use of others.

Further down torwards Perpignan there's another bouldering area at Eus : http://eusworld.canalblog.com/ Not much info around but there's a few bits of a topo on that site. I haven't been here either, but the photos look good!

Incidentally, if you need info about mountain biking around Font Romeu, or are looking for a gite nearby then this place http://www.ladressere.net is run by an English couple, and they know the area really well.

Edit: forgot to mention - there's a small sector further up the valley from the Orlu blocs : http://monodedo.over-blog.com/article-15673764.html and a few other bits and pieces around too, some info on zebloc http://www.zebloc.com/ and here http://nicobrasfort.starnux.net/?page_id=96

[moose]

I rather liked Auzat - very rough grained granite - like climbing 20+m bolted grit - so a nice change fro the usual Euro-lime.  Lots of pleasantly sustained off-vertical routes in the 6s and low 7s.  I dimly recall it being shaded by trees so it might be a goer in summer.

[fried]

If it's bouldering I'd just stay in Targasonne. It's pretty high so is cool in the mornings and evenings and as soon as you get out of the sun it can be cool during the day too.

Every time I go to Orlu it rains, so I can't comment but I've been told to wear plenty of Mosquito repelent.

Targasonne will ruin your hands though! if you've never been there's tons of stuff to go at.

I'll be there in the summer for the third year running.

[BB]

John and Anne Arran run a self catering appartments in Ornolac Ussat les Bains. Lovely setting, close to the climbing. Stayed there twice and can thoroughly recommend it. While the climbing isn't as good as Spain, it's quieter and more varied.

I was really taken by the bolted granite at Auzat. Some great lines on great rock.  Yes, it's mostly shaded.

http://www.chezarran.com/

[BB]

Here's a link to a load of online topos...

http://cafma.free.fr/

[turnipturned]

Just a heads up, but it could be boiling hot in the summer, when we were there in Easter despite the occasional snow storm, it was extremely hot in the sun. If you are thinking of camping 'La Griole' is the place to be. Great people that run the campsite too.

[ferret]

world class tufa climbing 1 hour 15 away in montgrony, probably pretty hot in the summer though, the dent is fun if you want to do 900m in a day epic, beautiful views, etc, climbed the main face twice was memorable, bouldering here is good but limited, a few other limestone crags around, good by uk standards, not spanish.

[ianv]

There is apparently some good sport at tautavel near perpignan. It's in a little valley by a river so there is some shade and swimming.

[Palomides]

A lot of the stuff near Perpignan/Tautavel/Vingrau is closed at the moment after an accident

http://routedelagrimpe.jimdo.com/