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Ashima(mini)wad (Read 59167 times)

ghisino

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#25 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 28, 2012, 02:59:27 pm
to put some blah blah in context it would be interesting to know what kind of daily sport practice she is involved in.

some textbook theory says that too early specialization and urge for performance can lead to excellent youth results that are not necessairly predictive of adult-age ones.

the mechanism being that if the coach focuses too much on early performances 2 bad things can happen:
a)the young athlete's mind and body are not respected and will enter a crisis later on ( la jennifer capriati)
b)the focus will be put on rapidly-achievable qualities (eg, specific endurance) somehow at the expense of long-term ones that are best developed at an early age (motor and mental skills, "athlete's lifestyle and ethic", ect...)


that said ondra (and his parents) probably focused on the bigger picture and still had excellent results...

r-man

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#26 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 28, 2012, 03:24:14 pm
Campus boards and fingerboards, load of old fashioned rubbish. The future...


petejh

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#27 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 28, 2012, 03:46:19 pm
Good article, nice to read a well-written piece about about climbing from an 'outsiders' point of view.

remus

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#28 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 29, 2012, 07:16:55 am
Apparently she's now done Lucifer as well.  :strongbench:

rosmat

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#29 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 29, 2012, 11:28:18 am
Amazingly fast too   :jaw:

habrich

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#30 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 20, 2012, 09:07:47 pm

masonwoods101

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#31 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 20, 2012, 11:20:11 pm
Good video. I've repeating 'tight yeah get it' to a 10 year old was a bit weird to be honest...

habrich

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#32 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 02:36:52 am
I am always curious that her mother never seems to feature in any videos or photos. I like to think she may be one of those mad education-obsessed Japanese women (I know one well ...) and is fretting all day that Ashima is squandering her youth on climbing when she could be rote-learning math problems or chained to a piano like a normal Japanese child ...

Muenchener

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#33 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 06:45:47 am
Return of the Warrior Ninja Princess

I'm not clear whether this is
  • the title of the video
  • the name of the problem
  • your assessment of the climber

slackline

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#34 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 07:52:50 am
Return of the Warrior Ninja Princess

I'm not clear whether this is
  • the title of the video
  • the name of the problem
  • your assessment of the climber

Its the first as I don't think its thesigers video nor are any problems of that name mentioned (also if you watch it there is some editing in the style of kung fu movies playing on the title).

habrich

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#35 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 03:30:31 pm
Return of the Warrior Ninja Princess

I'm not clear whether this is
  • the title of the video
  • the name of the problem
  • your assessment of the climber
It's 1!

If you click on the Youtube icon within any embedded video you open the same video on the Youtube site itself. There you can see the video's name etc etc


Danny

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#36 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 03:38:03 pm
Good video. I've repeating 'tight yeah get it' to a 10 year old was a bit weird to be honest...

Quite. She's clearly not one for the vocal gushing herself at this point, which is great to see, let's hope it stays that way. I remember seeing a video of some young girl climbing a V10 or something a while back - with a cringe-worthy load of screaming and pushy parents cheer leading away. Not great viewing.

She hardly looks like she's boning the shit out of those crimps either, so maybe it's not so bad. Maybe the advice pertains to the "I've just hit puberty, grown a shit load and my digits can't keep up" type situations?   

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#37 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 03:54:06 pm
This whole featherweight fearless kids tick big numbers leaves me invariably cold, but that's a pretty nice video, she seems like a sweet kid and has awesome shorts, I hope they stay as her trademark  :2thumbsup:

Putting this back on here as I want my shorts appreciation to be in the right place

standard

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#38 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 19, 2012, 12:52:09 pm
DPM have made their 'stash' videos free, so you can watch Ashima here http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/ashima-shiriashi-lucifer-14c.
Just need to create an account.

r-man

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#39 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 19, 2012, 01:17:35 pm
It's on vimeo.

habrich

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#40 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 19, 2012, 06:01:42 pm
Impressively fast clip between 4:49 and 4:51  ;)

r-man

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#41 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 12:32:14 am
Best bouldering flick I've seen for a while.


fatneck

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#42 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 09:16:29 am
Always loved Obe's attitude. Great to see him channel it!

:bow:

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#43 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:01:54 am
Aww bless her crying as she drops the end! I know the feeling!

andyd

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#44 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:11:32 am
That was lovely to see.
I loved the vision to throw the toe hook in at the comp (amazing), and the little girl enjoying herself bit too. The way it should be. A nice portrait of Obi to boot.

SA Chris

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#45 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:30:49 am
I like how he is taking on the Mr Miyagi role.

andyd

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#46 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:44:11 am
I like how he is taking on the Mr Miyagi role.
It appears that this role is mutually beneficial though. Miyagi didn't need a purpose. He had his bonsai. 

SA Chris

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#47 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:45:47 am
Miyagi didn't need a purpose.

Or indeed any sea mammal.

(yes slackers I know, it's not the same thing)

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#48 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 23, 2012, 02:38:32 pm
Noticed this on my girlfriends brake pads:


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#49 Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 23, 2012, 04:46:28 pm
Yerrrr that film got really good at the end. I like the real positive vibes about climbing. And I love her shorts.