[Bonjoy]

Whilst we are solving mysteries...
Tried this last night. Every move felt 8D, what's the sketch? 7b+ chinny racoooon! Guides don't give much away. No FA details either.
Who's prob is it? Has anyone repeated? I did the LH 7a sitter. Could it be that the RH is another misunderstanding and nobody has done the direct sitter? It's a good looking 8a-ish proj for a cold day and strong fingered lightweight if so. Or am I just a punter (quite likely really)?

[dave]

I think banks has done it (obviously).

[Andy B]

I think I went: RH juggy undercut, LH big span up to two finger pocket (I think it has a pebble in it) on the left hand version (awkward feet, crux), RH up to a nice dish, (maybe another hold in between) then break.

I couldn't do it last time I tried mind. There's something wierd about the feet at the start, because the bank comes up to the left and gets in the way.

[Bonjoy]

Bloody good effort, that's what I was trying, it felt horrendous! Yeah the footholds are really awkwardly placed. Also tried Little Rascal Sitter which felt similar but easier!

[Andy B]

I thought Little Rascal Sitter was a fair bit harder than this. It's a much stiffer pull to start and it's not over after that, whereas this is just one move. I did them both fairly quickly though (regarde moi) so who knows. I've long since given up trying to compare stuff, especially on grit.

[Bonjoy]

Didn't really get anywhere on either so my opinion on their relative grades is not worth much it must be said.

[Percy B]

Isn't it an Ian Fitzpatrick problem? I looked at the sitter years ago with Mo Overfield and neither of us thought it was very 7b+, not by a long Welford (the SI unit for 7b+'s). I just remember it being a massive span and aborting my forays for fear of popping my tendons in the pockets - not a friendly problem for those with big digits like my own sausages.

As for Little Rascal sit start, there's another mingingly hard move right off the deck. Trav's was always sure to make sure we only had one pad just so it wouldn't feel any easier. I had an amazing session on it with Andy Earl a few years back where we both spent the best part of 2 hours trying to leave the floor, then left the crag feeling completely worked (we did both leave the floor but only just!) A good workout if you don't like heights (and I'm talking inches here....). I always thought that if I did the first move the rest would be a formality. Its not.

[Andy B]

... I always thought that if I did the first move the rest would be a formality. Its not.

Definitely not, but they're good moves into the stander. We were pre-briefed on the starting pad numbers too. Lots of opportunity to make it much easier there.

[Andy Harris]

did little rascal ss at the wend and can confirm it is a bitch of a pull to leave the deck. Can't think of a move any where I've been where you can generate no upward momentum apart from clenching your cheeks whilst pulling at 100%. But I think it makes this unique move a great move and then a bit spicy climbing in to the stand up. I know 8a was muted but I'd say 7c+ tops but the thickness of your pad could have a big impact on the grade.

Can't picture the other problem you're talking about unless its on the wall right of the 2 classic slab problems? Any piccies?

[r-man]

Can't picture the other problem you're talking about unless its on the wall right of the 2 classic slab problems? Any piccies?

RH sitstart starts down and right on an undercut.

[Bonjoy]

It's on a flat wall between Little Rascal and The Rib. It's right up your street Andy I reckon.